From Deadhorse Down - A journey through North, Central and South America...

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by DirtyBones, Nov 14, 2010.

  1. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Well, it’s official…I finally set off on my very own adventure after years of reading ride reports from other riders that are having the time of their lives in distant countries. My plan is to ride from New York to Deadhorse, Alaska, then down to Tierra del Fuego and back to New York….hence the name of my post, “From Deadhorse Down”. This ride report is very late in coming as I left almost three months ago, but it was always my plan to include the ADV community as so many others have done before me. I am currently in Antigua, Guatemala trying desperately to learn Spanish, but will be moving on further south shortly. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    I’ve been keeping up with my blog (www.fromdeadhorsedown.com), and I finally found a way to copy my posts here. I apologize in advance for the slightly jacked format on the older posts (from day 1 to 84 will be up soon) that I am copying over to ADV, but future post should be better. I hope you enjoy the read as much as I have enjoyed riding and writing it. :ricky

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    Cheers! :beer
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    -Lenny

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  2. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    <p>Day 1 – Frenchtown, NJ to New Stanton, PA 08/21/2010 </p>
    <p>No alpine start for me today as I spent the morning helping to clean up after the party, having a leisurely breakfast at the Frenchtown Cafe with John and Tracy and doing last minute preparation. </p>
    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Breakfast at the Frenchtown Cafe"]<img title="FCafe" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THEVQ837yNI/AAAAAAAAA20/4454ALLioQs/s400/41223_427810737821_693697821_4841407_4287261_n.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]
    <p> </p>
    <p style="text-align:center;"> <img class="aligncenter" title="mebike" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THEVSdu-lwI/AAAAAAAAA24/w2blVK6026A/s400/45689_427810862821_693697821_4841412_1358775_n.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /> </p>
    <p>So at the crack of 2pm, I set of with my buddy John leading the way on his orange KTM 625. </p>
    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Johnny O and I"]<img title="JOHNANDI" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THCXa8Nc27I/AAAAAAAAA0A/SNLKs2yWAJI/s400/P1000182.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]
    <p> </p>
    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="I'm Off!"]<img title="IMOFF" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THEVEP4uquI/AAAAAAAAA2w/U48C2IY55NQ/s400/45689_427810877821_693697821_4841415_4162113_n.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]
    <p> </p>
    <p>We slid over the Delaware River into PA then north toward I-78 along the Delaware River. </p>
    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Crossing the Delaware"]<img title="BRIDGE" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THCXfDWyhXI/AAAAAAAAA0c/3hn5klKSu44/s400/P1000189.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]
    <p> </p>
    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Johnny O in PA"]<img title="JOHNNYOPA" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THCXguXowSI/AAAAAAAAA0o/8eoxMfPz3tM/s400/P1000192.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]
    <p> </p>
    <p> John rode with me out onto the highway and then with a nice 3<sup>rd</sup> gear wheelie and a wave goodbye, he peeled off the highway and I was on my own heading west. </p>
    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Crossing into PA"]<img title="MEINPA" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THCXgPsud9I/AAAAAAAAA0k/hr9CW73H5Rs/s400/P1000191.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]
    <p> </p>
    <p>The day was uneventful but short at only 291 miles. Home for the night would be a motel in New Stanton, PA…my location when the rain and nightfall caught up with me.</p>
    #2
  3. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Day 2 - New Stanton, PA to Marshall, IL 08/22/10 Mileage: 478

    I woke up to find it still raining from the night before, and as I was already behind...there was no waiting it out. I packed up the bike in the rain and set out on I-70, but luckily it ended an hour later and the roads began to dry out. As came up to Pickerington, OH, out of the corner of my eye on the opposite side of the road I caught a glimpse of the sign for the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame...cool! That's a no brainer of a stop and I'm glad I did. While not huge, there was some great motorcycle on display.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="In front of the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame Museum."]<img title="AMASIGN" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQfBct1iXI/AAAAAAAAA5k/fjNNAaQOUgE/s400/P1000219.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Might be more comfortable than the KLR...it&#039;s a toss up!"]<img class=" " title="WOODMC" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQeptxqRkI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/V1IpEeboocE/s400/P1000198.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="1949 Norton"]<img title="NORTON" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQes_6MhaI/AAAAAAAAA4c/BWVbKxB72iE/s400/P1000201.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Harley Davidson Race Bike"]<img title="HD RACER" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQet_GscNI/AAAAAAAAA4g/8BPk3TcMrKY/s400/P1000202.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="1971 Husqvarna 400 Cross"]<img title="HUSQY" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQezHGX3XI/AAAAAAAAA40/jJcLThvR7Y0/s400/P1000207.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Later on that day I pulled off in a rest area and spotted a fellow Adventure Rider on a Buell Ulysses. He was on his way home from a 2700+ mile loop from IL to Maine and back in 5 days.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fellow ADV Rider"]<img title="ADVIL" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQfIwov6jI/AAAAAAAAA6E/G7BeFRDA7tc/s400/P1000226.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    As it was getting dark, I was looking for a place to stay and found a campsite just south of Marshall, IL. The ranger office was closed, so poached a campsite and made an early exit the next morning. Though it was not a comfortable nights sleep, at least the price was right....$0.
    #3
  4. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Day 3 - Marshall, IL to Emporia, KS 08/23/10 Mileage: 509

    The morning was dank and damp so I was all to happy to pack up and hit the road. My spirits lifted with the fog as it was now sunny, dry and warm...perfect weather for riding. There are not many pictures from today as the scenery was average and I was still trying to make time. Yesterday I had stopped for some road groceries so as not to get trapped into eating fast food out of convenience. I picked up whole wheat flatbread, organic peanut butter and honey....cheap, fast, portable and good.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Gourmet dinning on my side-case lid next to a gas pump."]<img class=" " title="PBLID" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQed-feSdI/AAAAAAAAA3k/jLj9P4i31U0/s400/P1000227.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    The goal for today was to make it to Emporia, KS to visit my friend Cara who I only get to see once every year or two. I ended up getting there just before dinner, so after a quick shower it was off to an authentic Mexican joint she knew of. The portions were huge and delicious and came complete with a big ass margarita. Perfect!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Cara at the &quot;Casa&quot;"]<img title="CARAMEX" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQehVHu9eI/AAAAAAAAA3w/kqXsBMvrfoU/s400/P1000230.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Next we hit the local dive bar for a few beers and met up with her friend Anthony.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Cara and I"]<img title="CARAME" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQeiA-vfMI/AAAAAAAAA30/DqYh-bI0rs4/s400/P1000231.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Cara and Anthony"]<img title="CARAANT" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQej7Tqt1I/AAAAAAAAA38/aLzORxUURLA/s400/P1000233.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After a few beers, it was off to get some much needed rest....it will be a long day in the saddle if I'm going to make it to my next stop in Golden Colorado.
    #4
  5. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Day 4 - Emporia, KS to Scott City, KS 08/24/10 Mileage: 266

    What a shock...it was raining this morning and a quick check of the radar showed it was not going to stop anytime soon. Wholly unmotivated to start out in a soaking rain, I decided to spend the time catching up on my email, blog and other chores. The weather finally broke around noon so I quickly packed up pointed the KLR due west. Having ridden virtually all interstate highway so far, I was looking forward to some back roads through the sparsely populated western Kansas. What I hadn't counted on is a gusting 30 mph wind from the north hitting me on my right side. At times it was difficult to keep the bike in the lane....which becomes a real problem when there is a semi truck coming at you from the other direction! As any rider will tell you, riding in a strong cross wind can be tiring...especially on a relatively tall and lite bike like the KLR. I made a few more rest stops than normal, which gave me some time to dick around with the camera...

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Road to the horizon..."]<img class=" " title="longroad" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THQecUbHhkI/AAAAAAAAA8I/tkWK2Ha7KA4/s400/P1000236.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Not a curve in sight!"]<img title="HORIZON2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THR7uoOReVI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/meTQvm1_qb4/s400/P1000239.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="220" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Heading west..."]<img title="HORBIKE" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THR7wm-_rdI/AAAAAAAAA7g/5shxUmxhrbI/s400/P1000241.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    In rural Western Kansas...you can drive sometimes for an hour and literally not see another vehicle on the road.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="No such thing as traffic here!"]<img title="NOCARS" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THR7xAhpuQI/AAAAAAAAA7k/pT7XoMe8_ic/s400/P1000242.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Despite the fact that there was no traffic in sight and the weather ended up being great save for the gusty wind, the late start did me in and darkness fell before I could reach my buddy Paul's house in Colorado.
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  6. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Day 5 - Scott City, KS to Golden, CO 08/25/10 Mileage: 313

    Today was not going to be a high mileage day, so I didn't get on the road until 8:30. It was only roughly 300 miles to Paul's house in the front range of the Rocky Mountains so I decided to take as many back roads as possible and avoid the highway.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Welcome to Colorful Colorado!"]<img class=" " title="COWELCOME" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THWttIz8ZvI/AAAAAAAAA9A/Sj6WI_tJZVM/s400/P1000243.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    The big news for the day is that Paul is able to ride with me for a week or so up to Canada! He had recently sold his BMW GS1150, but was able to barrow another friends GS at the last-minute. I'm looking forward to sharing miles with him....I just hope I can keep up with the big Beemer!


    <p style="text-align:center;"><img class=" aligncenter" title="BIKEPREP" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THf65Nq4ZnI/AAAAAAAAA-s/Y4DkbcQusgM/s400/P1000252.JPG" alt="" />

    I have been lax with pictures, I will post more soon!
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  7. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    I was able to catch up with some other friends of mine for dinner in Denver Wednesday night. I met Jerry and Hilary on a hut to hut mountain bike trip we did a few years ago. Their friend Ken also joined us...

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Jerry, Hilary and I"]<img title="JERHIL" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THfbzvwUYQI/AAAAAAAAA9s/X6qTLfWjvo0/s400/P1000250.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Jerry and Ken"]<img title="JERKEN" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THfb0EnBMWI/AAAAAAAAA9w/KGZ1uQwsYAU/s400/P1000251.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]
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  8. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Day 6 and 7, Golden, CO 08/26-27/10 Mileage: 0</div>
    Thursday Paul and I went to Wolfman Motorcycle Luggage in Longmont, CO to pick up a new tank bag for the bike. On the way we had lunch in Nederland and then we were off to pick up the R1150GS Paul would be riding and bring it back to the house. Once back at the house, we commenced the buffalo wing and beer consumption which greatly explains the lack of pictures! Friday it was packing and preparing the bikes for the run up to Banff, Canada. After that was complete, it was off to lunch then to his son Lance's football game.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Paul and Kim"]<img title="PAULANDKIM" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnPM70-LGI/AAAAAAAAA_Y/zmtnCYowF1w/s400/P1000265.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Go Lance!"]<img title="LANCE" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnPKuwh9wI/AAAAAAAAA_Q/A3EvYz4hLzY/s400/P1000263.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Lance at wide receiver"]<img title="LANCE2" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnPPTOXg5I/AAAAAAAAA_k/51GQerbSxpI/s400/P1000268.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After the game it was on to the Southern Sun in Boulder, CO for some beer and black bean nachos!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Southern Sun, Boulder, CO"]<img title="SOUTHERNSUN" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnPTKdvG-I/AAAAAAAABAA/DwTxXxeOuds/s400/P1000275.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Paul and Lance..."]<img title="LNP" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnPRdU1sYI/AAAAAAAAA_w/_hZsyGUBBA0/s400/P1000272.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Kim and Leigh"]<img title="KNL" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnPSVRHQPI/AAAAAAAAA_8/39ayYlWPWPQ/s400/P1000274.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Leigh and I"]<img title="LNL" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnPJ2gHvlI/AAAAAAAAA_M/bkmqEzVgJ_Q/s400/P1000262.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Paul and Kim's friends Kristi and Dave joined us...what a fun couple!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Kristi and Dave..."]<img title="KND" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnPRxcfxzI/AAAAAAAAA_0/BluAp-V6rgM/s400/P1000273.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After the Southern Sun it was back to Kristi and Dave's house for...ummm...best as I recall...Jagger Bomb's, Car Bomb's, beer and other assorted libations culminating in an epic and very late night!
    #8
  9. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Day 8 - Golden, CO - Landers, WY 08/28/10 Mileage: 389

    After getting home from Kristi and Dave's at 4am, an early start was just not in the cards!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Hung over in helmets..."]<img title="LNP" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnUstucnAI/AAAAAAAABAo/hLNz4JaO3oc/s400/P1000282.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    So, at the crack of 10am, Paul and I set off down Coal Creek Canyon heading for I-70 west and Winter Park to visit an old high school friend. After loading a spare tire onto the back of my bike, it now handles like a piano. The high altitude and extra weight means I have to push the KLR hard to get over the mountain passes. Once in Winter Park, I met up with Patty who is an old friend from high school....it was great to see her after all these years!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Patty and I..."]<img title="PNL" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnU2DPtVcI/AAAAAAAABA0/lpOdqabzz90/s400/P1000285.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After a quick visit with Patty, it was due north to Wyoming.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Welcome to Wyoming..."]<img title="WY" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnU8GPLTTI/AAAAAAAABA4/5g2kJtJaPEU/s400/P1000286.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Yee haww....Wyoming!"]<img title="WY2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnVBsNgJ1I/AAAAAAAABA8/MAqU5lPh4qY/s400/P1000287.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Steel horses...."]<img title="ST" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnVG6QNshI/AAAAAAAABBA/ONBsAvIt9eA/s400/P1000288.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="On the road in Wyoming..."]<img title="ROAD1" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THnWzoH8qAI/AAAAAAAABBI/zQyTE2s1isM/s400/GOPR0022.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Once out of the mountains of Colorado and onto the rolling desolate plains of central Wyoming, the wind came on with a furry. What made this so bad was it was hitting us broadside making it a struggle to keep the bikes upright and on the road! This went on for over 100 miles across the most deserted and desolate terrain I have ever crossed. In nearly 130 miles, we passed exactly 1 gas station, 10 deserted buildings and 12 cows...who cleary must have been lost. The next town was Lander's, WY and was a welcome sight. Given the lack of sleep and the fatigue of battling the cross winds on the open plains, we quickly decided on a hotel room...a two bedroom deluxe suite to be exact, because that's what a roughneck Wyoming cowboy would do....not.
    #9
  10. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Day 9 - Landers, WY - Yellowstone National Park 08/29/10 Mileage: 255</div>
    <div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter" style="text-align:left;">After a much needed night’s sleep, we packed up the bikes and were on the road shortly after 8. I loved the cool dry morning air and it seems the KLR did as well as she was running as smooth as ever. After a great moose sighting and a quick stop for gas in Dubois, we continued to push west.</div>

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Gasing up in Dubois, WYxDowntown Dubois, WY"]<img title="DUBOISDGAS" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxyo8e2uAI/AAAAAAAABBo/TxP_GKgGo8Q/s400/P1000290.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    We had our first "taste" of adventure when we came upon several miles of road construction. Now, normally "road construction" implies there is an actual road that is currently under construction. Not so in this case as the pavement completed ended giving way to a rocky morass of mud and dirt. The KLR fared well as it is an off-road bike at heart and has semi off-road tires. Paul had a harder time on the big Beemer shod with half bald street tires. He did a hell of a job just keeping the bike upright. We would have stopped for a picture, but we both had our hands full keeping the bikes upright and moving forward. Thankfully the mud gave way to pavement after a few miles and we were able to let the bikes run once again. The scenery was improving with each mile we rode, but the grand finale came when we crested a pass to see before us the full grandeur of the Teton Mountains and Grand Teton.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Grand Teton"]<img title="GRANDTETON" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxypi4UV0I/AAAAAAAABBw/de2ppHjBicE/s400/P1000292.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    No amount of words or pictures can fully describe the scale and beauty that lay before us.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Teton National Park"]<img title="GRANDTETON2" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxytaThX2I/AAAAAAAABCM/rLTVlXuXjQI/s400/P1000299.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Paul and I and the Teton&#039;s"]<img title="TETONNP" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxyt0q_FFI/AAAAAAAABCQ/ijkZa-X3OXE/s400/P1000300.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Taton&#039;s and bikes..."]<img title="TETONBIKE" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxyutUHGDI/AAAAAAAABCU/0lVzD-kqW74/s400/P1000301.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After the requisite photo's, it was onward to Grand Teton National Park which led us into Yellowstone.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Fellow NJ travelers!"]<img title="NJPU" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxyvB44_XI/AAAAAAAABCY/rANzgCvwwWs/s400/P1000302.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Paul and the Grand Teton..."]<img title="PTETONS" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxyvoWxDSI/AAAAAAAABCc/7AG9ZSWenHM/s400/P1000303.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Grand Teton..."]<img title="GTETON" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxywgwhkJI/AAAAAAAABCk/cuix6T0VztI/s400/P1000305.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Teton National Park"]<img title="tetons" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxyxcPI8kI/AAAAAAAABCo/FyLIfbN9goo/s400/P1000306.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="The Teton&#039;s across Jackson Lake..."]<img title="TETONNP" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxyx-GhAFI/AAAAAAAABCs/lugVXrx_i5U/s400/P1000307.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Crossing the Continental Divide..."]<img title="CDIVIDE" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy08S_HCI/AAAAAAAABDA/jINDijsuiVk/s400/P1000313.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    We had a packed lunch overlooking Jackson Lake, and then it was on to Old Faithful. We went in to check out the Old Faithful Inn which was very cool and has been there since the late 1800’s!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Old Faithful Inn"]<img title="OFINN1" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy91uL17I/AAAAAAAABEI/dUiGMODMY4M/s400/P1000332.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Old Faithful Inn"]<img title="OFINN3" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy4luvTzI/AAAAAAAABDc/zJfkNVjkS9w/s400/P1000319.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Inside the Old Faithful Inn..."]<img title="OFINN3" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy2Ifr0GI/AAAAAAAABDM/Ucnmq0t_UQA/s400/P1000315.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Inside the Old Faithful Inn..."]<img title="OFINN2" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy3Dm-rXI/AAAAAAAABDQ/hjDl2RTCPh4/s400/P1000316.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Inside the Old Faithful Inn"]<img title="OFINN3" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy8C-UdbI/AAAAAAAABD8/bIxb02cHhQU/s400/P1000329.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    They had a nice deck overlooking Old Faithful where we procured a few beers and settled into our ring side seats for the geyser show.

    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Chillin with an Old Faithful beer on the Old Faithful Inn deck!"]<img class=" " title="OFDECK" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy4ET83XI/AAAAAAAABDY/KVkVk20xmTs/s400/P1000318.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Paul on the Old Faithful Inn deck..."]<img title="OFIDECK" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy5DAQ7KI/AAAAAAAABDg/f2m-6COhAgo/s400/P1000320.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Living the life..."]<img title="OFIDECK2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy5ScKxOI/AAAAAAAABDk/RLvge-NHiag/s400/P1000321.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    Though it was 12 minutes “late”, Old Faithful did not disappoint.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Old Faithful in action!"]<img title="OF1" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy6KrWK1I/AAAAAAAABDs/SscH3QJNxmw/s400/P1000325.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Old Faithful Inn bus...cool!"]<img title="OFIBUS" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy89umPdI/AAAAAAAABEA/naiBXhVS0n8/s400/P1000330.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    When we got back to the bikes, some folks had left a note on Paul’s bike informing us that the ravens had taken a liking to his riding gloves and the Velcro fasteners on my tank bag.

    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="The &quot;Raven Note&quot;..."]<img class=" " title="CROW2" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxzBtMYc_I/AAAAAAAABEg/AtttoNLuFY8/s400/P1000338.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Damn ravens!"]<img class=" " title="CROW" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy-UQvhiI/AAAAAAAABEM/kwq1V9N6SHU/s400/P1000333.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After procuring some provisions and fuel, it was onward to seek out a campground for the night.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Oh give me a home, where the buffalo roam..."]<img title="BUFF" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxy_KVDitI/AAAAAAAABEQ/1LVpPlOaHS8/s400/P1000334.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    Once at the campground, a park ranger told us about a nightly presentation about the parks history.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Camping in Yellostone National Park"]<img title="YCAMP" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxzAG47VFI/AAAAAAAABEU/TBZvvMheTxI/s400/P1000335.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    So, after setting up camp we went over to the presentation.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="History of Yellowstone...kind of..."]<img title="CAMPP" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxzCGHY2rI/AAAAAAAABEk/bmwRQ2FjAyQ/s400/P1000339.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    In short, Paul liked it…but after 10 minutes I wanted to blow my brains out! Perhaps it was the impatient part time NY’er in me…but the only thing keeping me there were the 10 people blocking my retreat! Afterwards, it was back to the tents for some much needed rest.
    #10
  11. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    761
    Location:
    Home...planning the next run....
    Day 10 - Yellowstone - Missoula, MT 08/30/10 Mileage: 329

    Morning came at 6am...or more specifically some jackasses car alarm in the next campsite. The temperature was in the 30's and it was starting to rain. There was no avoiding the inevitable, so we packed the bikes and got on the road. We rode around 10 miles when and were stopped at a construction road block...and to boot it started to rain in earnest. Cold, wet, no way forward, and no way back...ummm this officially sucks. Once the road block lifted, we started to head up a small mountain pass only to be greeted by sleet, freezing rain and a gravel mud road. The consitions were dicey at best, but we pressed on. My only consolation is that with every mile I am slowly earning the ADV (Adventure Rider) sticker on my side bag. There are not many pictures from today, because if we stopped we might not have the will to get back on the bikes!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Elk! OK, that was pretty cool to be so close..."]<img title="ELK" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxzEKYPNuI/AAAAAAAABE0/2GX_-ZS7JCI/s400/P1000342.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Yellowstone Park north entrance arch..."]<img title="YA" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxzE0bg5_I/AAAAAAAABE4/aoV1ofqjt7s/s400/P1000343.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    We were in and out of rain all day up into Montana ending up in Missoula where we tracked down a new rear tire for Paul's 1150GS at Big Sky Cycles.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Big Sky Cycles, Missoula, MT"]<img title="BSC" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/THxzFxoRrZI/AAAAAAAABFA/hBdfmd_PSbs/s400/P1000345.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    After finding a hotel and a bite to eat, it was off to get some rest. Tomorrow we hope to cross Glacier National Park and on into Canada...
    #11
  12. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    761
    Location:
    Home...planning the next run....
    Day 11 - Missoula, MT - Babb, MT 08/31/10 Mileage: 210

    The hotel had a free breakfast consisting of fatty muffins and skinny coffee and I wished it were the other way around…but free is free and we both ate our fill. We rode out of Missoula at 9am heading north towards Glacier National Park.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Rest stop on the way to Polson, MT..."]<img title="MEMT" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2ptm6uKgI/AAAAAAAABF4/ldsR9B59ZZg/s400/P1000350.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Paul on the road to Polson, MT..."]<img title="PBMT" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2pw3HPmBI/AAAAAAAABF8/DXuPR0Dg10Y/s400/P1000351.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Bikes resting above Flathead Lake..."]<img title="BUFH" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2pzb_OI7I/AAAAAAAABGA/1O1a6MO2Cak/s400/P1000352.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    First stop would be the town of Polson, MT for gas a bite to eat. On the way we passed the Miracle of America Museum…and we couldn’t pass on this thin slice of roadside Americana. For the paltry sum of $5, we got to look at 50+ rare motorcycles, helicopters, jets, a washing machine collection, vintage cars, war memorabilia, farm equipment, vintage snowmobiles and snow cats, a tug boat and a million other things that defy classification. I’ll let the pictures do the talking…

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Miracle of America Museum"]<img title="AM1" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2p2W0ggsI/AAAAAAAABGE/z-vTgHpXMrg/s400/P1000353.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="A WWII era army half track..."]<img class=" " title="AM2" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2p5A8fJ5I/AAAAAAAABGI/BQg3jbZmB_g/s400/P1000354.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Taking it all in..."]<img title="AM3" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2p67iKPgI/AAAAAAAABGM/423HRdM3afY/s400/P1000355.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Electric torture device or hair curler..I&#039;ll let you be the judge..."]<img title="AM4" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2p81GTWUI/AAAAAAAABGQ/Bs-VePLHCZQ/s400/P1000356.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="The predecessor to Paul’s R1150GS…and old BMW boxer powered side car…"]<img title="AM5" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qDZaeCeI/AAAAAAAABGc/6zgqsN1HU3Y/s400/P1000358.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Some old Harley&#039;s..."]<img title="AM6" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qGbqxfPI/AAAAAAAABGg/XuttvwPlOps/s400/P1000359.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Yet another old Harley..."]<img title="AM7" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qJTyN6yI/AAAAAAAABGk/0fV715tXh-A/s400/P1000360.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="An old Excelsior...cool!"]<img title="AM8" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qLfME7tI/AAAAAAAABGo/f_OdIYxaVkw/s400/P1000361.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="A three seat Indian three wheeler...ya..."]<img title="AM8" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qTJbPCUI/AAAAAAAABG0/Aqbg_LHcx-c/s400/P1000364.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="An Ariel &quot;Square Four&quot;"]<img title="am9" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qVeRXvvI/AAAAAAAABG4/fDfk5k2tC3I/s400/P1000365.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Ready for tak-off...."]<img title="AM10" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qbD5jgeI/AAAAAAAABHA/m4KLY9rOlzQ/s400/P1000367.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Stick and rudder baby, nothing to it..."]<img title="AM11" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qcqCUMrI/AAAAAAAABHE/wbK8-QuIKZU/s400/P1000368.JPGSAMA" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="The Huey cockpit..."]<img title="AM12" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qemzFcOI/AAAAAAAABHI/EU0vx4qRdvY/s400/P1000369.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Paul has a go..."]<img title="AM13" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qhhdMwsI/AAAAAAAABHM/xi40WIyveWw/s400/P1000370.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Bell Huey"]<img title="AM14" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qmFHksyI/AAAAAAAABHQ/KyboszemgNA/s400/P1000371.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Paul and I in the &quot;MASH&quot; chopper..."]<img title="am15" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qoqJUDeI/AAAAAAAABHU/0tyxgYR0CDI/s400/P1000372.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Even big kids like fire trucks..."]<img title="AM16" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qrr7kknI/AAAAAAAABHY/iuUpgnJt9Do/s400/P1000373.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Don&#039;t ask what it is, because I don&#039;t know..."]<img class=" " title="AM17" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qubkk-pI/AAAAAAAABHc/jsP_5yY80-0/s400/P1000374.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Glacier National Park snow plow truck..."]<img title="AM18" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qxOsMh8I/AAAAAAAABHg/KcwFIw2VDo0/s400/P1000375.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Glacier National Park snow plow truck..."]<img title="AM19" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2qzyiNeNI/AAAAAAAABHk/Y-jHdoTUMKI/s400/P1000376.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="At the helm..."]<img title="AM20" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2q17IWJUI/AAAAAAAABHo/MegNWResFYY/s400/P1000377.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After spending 2 hours crawling in, on and over random bits of Americana….we were famished and looking to fill the void…and did so with an all you can eat Chinese buffet. After stuffing ourselves with moo goo gai pan, we rolled up the east shore of Flathead Lake towards West Glacier and the entrance to Glacier National Park. We procured some provisions in hopes of camping in the park and then started up the Going to the Sun Road which traverses the park.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Entering Glacier National Park"]<img title="GNP1" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2q4cmNiNI/AAAAAAAABHs/IibX3X11OGI/s400/P1000378.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Heading up the Going to the Sun Road..."]<img title="GNP2" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2q7IMTUwI/AAAAAAAABHw/bAa4ysPCBb0/s400/P1000379.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Getting higher up the pass..."]<img title="GNP3" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2q_p7wy3I/AAAAAAAABH4/JcEKSfVh9WU/s400/P1000381.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Paul heading up the Going to the Sun Road"]<img title="GNP4" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2rBSQ8UjI/AAAAAAAABH8/CCN2rQ4mrgw/s400/P1000382.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    The overcast weather was turning quickly to rain as we climbed up into the higher elevations. Near the top of the pass, the rain turned to sleet as the temperature dipped into the 30’s. On top of that the road was under construction in spots so we had to wait in the sleet and rain for the road to reopen….then make our way up the pass. Once on the other side of the pass the weather was even worse and camping was not looking too appealing. This also explains the lack of pictures!

    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A look back into Glacier Park from the east side..."]<img class=" " title="GNP5" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH2rFIIwIwI/AAAAAAAABIE/JTvgrVdHqWU/s400/P1000384.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    After shopping around for suitable accommodations, we settled on the Duck Lake Lodge in the booming metropolis of Babb, MT.
    #12
  13. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    761
    Location:
    Home...planning the next run....
    Day 12 - Babb, MT - Banff, Alberta, Canada 09/01/10 Mileage: 254</div>
    <div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter"> </div>
    Welcome to Canada, eh! It was only 30 miles to the Canadian border which we crossed without a hitch.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Welcome to Canada, eh!"]<img title="CA1" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8thPgfZII/AAAAAAAABJE/D7hDqX_Je-M/s400/P1000391.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Waterton Park...sister park to Glacier."]<img title="CA2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8tk-FVUVI/AAAAAAAABJQ/_czoJZzm_HM/s400/P1000394.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="There&#039;s snow in them thar hills...."]<img title="ca3" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8tlX-CRgI/AAAAAAAABJU/K2XtavOqX9Y/s400/P1000395.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Looking into Waterton Park..."]<img title=" ca4" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8tm1aY7CI/AAAAAAAABJY/6EJIRv8Qdm8/s400/P1000396.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    I had the GPS set to avoid highways so we can stay more on the secondary roads which are always more interesting and enjoyable than the super slab. The GPS did such a good job of avoiding highways, it managed to avoid pavement all together for around 70 miles!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="No pavement in site!"]<img title="ca5" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8tpu018zI/AAAAAAAABJk/jKSl6lSluyE/s400/P1000398.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Paul is all smiles...dirt roads are fun!"]<img title="ca7" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8twNOyDgI/AAAAAAAABJw/zxTFRIPOz4s/s400/P1000401.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Gravel goodness..."]<img title="ca9" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8txQPaaiI/AAAAAAAABJ0/HFvyzi_uKiM/s400/P1000402.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Paul taking in the awesome scenery..."]<img class=" " title="ca10" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8t0l8KeDI/AAAAAAAABJ8/NJvS7FIrcZw/s400/P1000404.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Dirt, dirt and more dirt road..."]<img title="ca11" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8t3w69mSI/AAAAAAAABKE/5UP-RphSbJU/s400/P1000406.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;"> The bikes got a good workout in the dirt and so did we. The views were amazing and we had them all to ourselves. I had the first of two tip over’s today. I stopped to let air out of the tires to ride the dirt roads, and just when I went to get back on the bike tipped over the other way. No damage…just knocked the mirror loose which I easily tightened back up. An hour later we stopped just after getting back on the pavement to air the tires back up…it tipped over again when I was getting it down off the center stand. This time the right side pannier rack got bent in a bit, but Paul and I are going to see if we can straighten it tomorrow. With the bike loaded, the kickstand is just a bit too long…and I’m contemplating having it cut down and welded….we’ll see. After that it was a straight run into Banff, which is a great town!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Banff! "]<img title=" ca12" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8t7ftTS0I/AAAAAAAABKQ/6f6JNrWGaAA/s400/P1000409.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Main street in Banff..."]<img title="ca13" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8t9wGqJJI/AAAAAAAABKY/AIWlj_Ija2g/s400/P1000411.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">I’d never been here and it did not disappoint. Paul has a friend Andria that has a friend Webble that has lived in town for 25 years, so we gave him call. It turns out by chance that he was having a beer across the street from where we parked the bikes…great! So being no strangers ourselves to drinking beer, we joined him and some other friends for a drink.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="L to R: Carl, Paul, Ali, me, Webble"]<img title="ca14" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8t_i1fKiI/AAAAAAAABKc/0wnimH5abNo/s400/P1000412.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="277" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">His friend Carl hooked us up with a sweeeet lodging deal with the company he works for. Thanks Carl! After that it was off to check in and then out for a bite to eat.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Sweet digs thanks to Carl!"]<img title="ca15" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8uAyuuycI/AAAAAAAABKg/jyo_dkhSHpY/s400/P1000413.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Roughing it...not. "]<img title=" ca16" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH8uCMx4KtI/AAAAAAAABKk/yHKEUWFn5Yw/s400/P1000414.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">We settled on a $25 all you can eat sushi deal which was very average. However, at the end the waitress wanted to charge me extra because I didn’t finish the three teaspoons of rice on my plate.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="That is a saucer size plate...not a dinner plate!"]<img title="WTF" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH9PjsWWRBI/AAAAAAAABK4/AJoRbRdlEts/s400/IMG00110-20100901-2146.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">I told her politely that I am full and not going to eat the rice…nor will I pay an extra fee. Well, she became indignant and insisted that I either pay or finish the rice. I told her I will not clean my plate like a 3 year old, and I will not pay the fee, and I’m happy to sit here all night or talk to the owner, but I’m sure as shit not paying extra or eating the f—king rice. Well, she brought the bill…with the fee…so Paul and I paid cash, less the fee and no tip. What a hoser.
    #13
  14. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    So, after yesterdays second tip over, the right side rear sub-frame and side bag rack were bent inwards requiring a little backyard ingenuity. We had to bend the rear rack back out, and we needed to apply some brute force...and what we needed was a strong lever, say, like a steel fireplace poker!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Poker inserted into the rear....subframe rack that is."]<img title="FP1" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH_LLlJ190I/AAAAAAAABLY/bfWHFRXh5PY/s400/P1000417.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After the poker was inserted, it was time to apply some brute force, or at least as much force as a doughy IT desk jokey can apply.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Applying some pressure..."]<img title="FP2" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH_LNs-vcsI/AAAAAAAABLc/eNngBq5MmFc/s400/P1000418.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    The top rack had also been tweaked upward, so we strapped the poker across the back rack and bent it back downward.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Mission accomplished!"]<img title="FP3" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TH_LTtuF4wI/AAAAAAAABLk/AaX4hOnuyR8/s400/P1000420.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    OK, so it ain't perfect, but its way better than it was. The only casualty was a severely bent poker, but at least her rear looks great!
    #14
  15. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

    Joined:
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    Day 13 Banff, Alberta to Jasper National Park 09/02/10 Mileage: 327

    After putting the KLR's rear end back together, we packed up and went to meet Webble for breakfast. He suggested, in fact, everyone suggested Melissa's...and specifically the french toast. Well, it lived up to the billing and was really delicious.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Breakfast at Melissa&#039;s"]<img title="BA1" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIG37Do23xI/AAAAAAAABMA/MCzFO1557Tc/s400/P1000421.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Melissa&#039;s famous french toast..."]<img title="BA2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIG4Ax4LkUI/AAAAAAAABME/nlxtS-fTMhM/s400/P1000422.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="314" caption="Paul, Webble, and I in front of Mellisa&#039;s..."]<img title="BA3" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIG4CyajqoI/AAAAAAAABYQ/PMe_8t0dBe0/s400/P1000423.JPG" alt="" width="314" height="400" />[/caption]



    After that Paul and I shot over to the Banff information kiosk...he in search of a map and me to see what the area has to offer besides the town itself. With that done, our ride together had come to an end. Paul was turning the Beemer south back towards Colorado. He was going to try and make it home by Saturday for his son Lance's first football game. I would continue northwest towards Lake Louise, Jasper an onward to Alaska. So with a final farewell, we parted ways and I was on my own once again. We had such a great time on the road...I miss riding with him already.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Parting shot..."]<img title="BA4" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRrHjouonI/AAAAAAAABYc/0HSHA1qUM50/s400/P1000426.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="So long my friend, it was great riding with you!"]<img title="BA5" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRrKfoCjfI/AAAAAAAABYg/djwJ96oF5Cc/s400/P1000427.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    My first stop was to check out the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel...and wow is that place spectacular.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel...wow!"]<img title="BA6" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRrOMlbOFI/AAAAAAAABYk/XPfo-UMSWSU/s400/P1000428.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Fairmont Banff Springs"]<img title="BA7" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRrSrVMmKI/AAAAAAAABYo/MITsbJq3U6Y/s400/P1000429.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Banff Springs Hotel gold course...quite a setting for a course..."]<img title="BA10" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRrmeNscuI/AAAAAAAABY8/COcgSB0NBAc/s400/P1000434.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Downtown Banff..."]<img title="BA8" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIG4Gc04vkI/AAAAAAAABMM/i3Ao7lcCkD4/s400/P1000424.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Downtown Banff"]<img title="BA9" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRr3dP_oPI/AAAAAAAABZM/69kk_Wo2_cM/s400/P1000439.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Next I rode up to an overlook where you could see all of Banff and the surrounding mountains and valley's...quite a view for sure.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Banff and the surrounding mountains"]<img title="BA11" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRr7VYesEI/AAAAAAAABZQ/45VFT9FJIt8/s400/P1000440.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    On my way to my next stop, Morraine Lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks, I saw a huge elk feeding right by the side of the road!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Roadside elk..."]<img title="BA12" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRsw9P4h5I/AAAAAAAABaM/ziZpjiiWR38/s400/P1000451.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    He never gave me a second look as I sat there on the bike for 10 minutes watching and taking pictures.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Along the way to Lake Louise..."]<img title="BA13" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRs0X1qc5I/AAAAAAAABaQ/tYa2Bb2fQeA/s400/P1000452.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Mountains on the way to Lake Louise..."]<img class=" " title="BA14" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRs7ncZmAI/AAAAAAAABaY/_iS6ngU0bpQ/s400/P1000454.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    The ride to Morraine Lake was great and the lake itself is stunning (thanks to Andria for the suggestion!).

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Morraine Lake and the Valley of the 10 Peaks..."]<img title="BA15" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRtPfae7BI/AAAAAAAABaw/tHQzqLOK9mM/s400/P1000460.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Morriane Lake"]<img title="BA16" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRtSjG2WkI/AAAAAAAABa0/ATZ8YPB-_qc/s400/P1000461.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Next stop was the Chateau Lake Louise which is a hotel set on the edge of an alpine lake of the same name that is nearly as stunning as Morraine Lake. The hotel itself is nice, but not in the same league as the Fairmont Banff Springs.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Lake Louise"]<img title="BA17" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRtj7a1v4I/AAAAAAAABbI/BOQrp-XiiXE/s400/P1000466.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After a quick PB and honey on flat bread, it was off to Jasper National Park. On my way I saw my first bear of the trip! Just as the elk did earlier in the day, he could care less that I was there watching and didn't even look my way.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Roadside Bear!"]<img title="BA18" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRtwRqlhYI/AAAAAAAABbU/WQK6jlDaI50/s400/P1000469.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    The scenery as I rode north was unbelievable. My jaw would have dropped to the ground had my helmet chin strap not been there to catch it.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Jasper National Park along the Icefields Parkway"]<img class=" " title="BA19" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRuGIlt74I/AAAAAAAABb0/IK3dyQS5gAU/s400/P1000476.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Jasper National Park"]<img title="BA20" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRuKIgF5bI/AAAAAAAABb4/F3ePn6k-vYk/s400/P1000477.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Jasper National Park"]<img title="BA21" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRuLqadBPI/AAAAAAAABb8/4QCEs4zNV6E/s400/P1000478.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Jasper National Park"]<img title="BA24" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRuPqqyv9I/AAAAAAAABcA/Fhmo1YwpCWQ/s400/P1000479.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Jasper National Park"]<img title="BA25" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRuTXR8XNI/AAAAAAAABcE/mZar-G-Tpn4/s400/P1000480.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Jasper National Park"]<img title="BA27" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRugmGzrZI/AAAAAAAABcU/uwQv7boQVMw/s400/P1000484.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Glacier in Jasper National Park"]<img title="BA26" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRudP3YSyI/AAAAAAAABcQ/gY7N4SPpmig/s400/P1000483.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Home for the night would be the Honeymoon campground about 30 miles south of Jasper where I got some great twilight pictures of the mountains reflecting in the lake.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Honeymoon Lake, Jasper National Park"]<img title="BA29" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRumANqh6I/AAAAAAAABcc/CY086sD9vV4/s400/P1000486.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Now that seat has a view for sure..."]<img title="BA30" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRuuEX94FI/AAAAAAAABco/VZV9pPGEvSE/s400/P1000489.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Could be one of the best pictures I&#039;ve ever taken..."]<img title="BA31" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRuvZt_adI/AAAAAAAABcs/GMpCql95CqI/s400/P1000490.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Yep, that&#039;s a good pic for sure..."]<img title="BA34" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRuwgJIIrI/AAAAAAAABcw/lmhhEs99tFw/s400/P1000491.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Tomorrow it’s on to the town of Jasper, then Dawson Creek.
    #15
  16. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Day 14 – Jasper National Park to Dawson Creek, BC 05/03/10 Mileage: 364

    It was a cold night’s sleep as I only have a lightweight summer sleeping bag to keep the weight down and save space. I had on all my thermal clothing and my riding jacket draped over my sleeping bag. Hopefully tonight will be warmer…at least the forecast looks better. The couple next store to me offered me a cup of coffee which I gladly accepted as my camp stove is giving me trouble. After 20 years of service it finally gave up the ghost…I can’t complain I guess. After packing up I continued north towards the town of Jasper and passed more unbelievable scenery.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Athabasca Falls"]<img title="JA1" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRopNfmtzI/AAAAAAAABVg/gU8tyrtFar4/s400/P1000500.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Athabasca Falls"]<img title="JA2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRoRplpiWI/AAAAAAAABVI/M4n-YjsnTAc/s400/P1000493.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Below Athabasca Falls"]<img title="JA3" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRokHbD2tI/AAAAAAAABVc/DKBCkkNl_LE/s400/P1000498.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Jasper National Park"]<img title="JA4" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRorjSYVoI/AAAAAAAABVk/CeiXgYZpTJo/s400/P1000501.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Prong horn sheep? ......anyone?"]<img title="JA6" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRoxzxLeKI/AAAAAAAABVs/XfjZEF5CBdk/s400/P1000505.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="264" />[/caption]



    I had breakfast in Jasper and went shopping for a new camp stove, but no luck there.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Town of Jasper"]<img title="JA5" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRouiuozZI/AAAAAAAABVo/q-YqcgzJEJc/s400/P1000502.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    I continued on heading for Dawson Creek via Grand Prairie. The scenery was getting more ordinary, but that was inevitable given the immense grandeur of Jasper National Park and Banff. I was pushing the KLR hard to try and make time because the clock is ticking…winter is drawing near and it doesn’t play nice with motorcycles.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Welcome to BC!"]<img title="JA7" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRo4Oy7eQI/AAAAAAAABV0/jWCabtvMVBk/s400/P1000507.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway....Dawson Creek, BC"]<img title="JA9" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRo8pozEUI/AAAAAAAABV4/c6_FM-qEEII/s400/P1000508.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    I rolled into Dawson Creek and settled into the Mile “0” Campground. Just after getting settled, a storm front came in with a fury and wind gusts over 50mph! It nearly flattened my lightweight backpacking tent and threaten to tip the KLR over(again!). I had to tie them both to trees until the storm past. The campground gets its name from the fact that Dawson Creek is the official start, or mile “0” of the Alaska-Canada Highway( AlCan for short). The other end of the highway is roughly 1400 miles northwest in Delta Junction, Alaska just south of Fairbanks. Tomorrow I start my run up the famous AlCan.
    #16
  17. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

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    Day 15 Dawson Creek, BC to Tetsa River, BC 09/04/10 Mileage: 353

    It was a bit warmer sleeping last night but not by much. It rained on an off all night but thankfully had stopped in time for me to pack up and get on the road. The KLR seems to thrive on the cool dense morning air which is good because I was on the throttle hard trying to make time. I don’t have any deadlines on this trip save for one…and that is the goal of getting to Deadhorse before winter comes to the north slope of Alaska. Ever present in the back of my mind now is the ticking of the clock. It is definitely a calculated risk to push so far north this late in the season, and I will need some luck and good weather to make it. So far the temperatures have been unseasonable cold, and I’m hoping that is just a cold snap and not the early arrival of winter. After 40 minutes of riding, the rain started so I had to back off the pace a bit. I topped off the tank in Buckinghorse, the last gas (or anything else for that matter!) for 100+ miles until the town of Fort Nelson. This area is dominated by logging and it seems some gas and oil drilling also. As such, the services are rather industrial in this area and cater more towards field workers than overland travelers.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="The &quot;restaurant&quot; in Buckinghorse"]<img title="TE1" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRnnHKQ3pI/AAAAAAAABUI/2s7W8_bHBvw/s400/P1000509.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="The &quot;motel&quot;"]<img title="TE2" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRnpb8OieI/AAAAAAAABUM/EPBIrFybkeU/s400/P1000510.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="245" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="The &quot;gas station&quot;"]<img title="TE3" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRnrkepbKI/AAAAAAAABUQ/JpQfYNtk-mo/s400/P1000511.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    The "motel" is a series of self contained rooms on skids that they slid of the back of trucks and presto..instant motel! In Fort Nelson I topped up the tank and had a quick bite to eat. It was still raining and the forecast was bleak until tomorrow late morning. Camping was out so I called up the road and tracked down a reasonable “rustic” cabin at Tetsa River Lodge…about 80 miles farther. Just outside of town, the road turned toward some ominous looking weather. The smart thing to do would have been to turn around and head back to Fort Nelson, but apparently I’m not that bright. So with gritted teeth, I steered the KLR into the dark clouds and met the full force of the cold driving rain. It’s at this point that I began to wonder what the f-ck is wrong with me to want to do trips like this. Why can’t I be like most people and just bugger off to the Caribbean, lay on the warm sand and drink fruity rum drinks or take a cruise? At the moment that seems infinitely more appealing than the abject misery of the moment….cold, wet and riding on an out of balance washing machine. Then, up ahead from behind my fogged up face shield, I could see the sign for Tetra River and it could not have come soon enough.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Tetra River Lodge"]<img title="TE8" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRnvi9mu1I/AAAAAAAABUU/p6Dw7DBPUG0/s400/P1000518.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Inside Tetra River"]<img title="TE10" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRnzncFp0I/AAAAAAAABUc/srR_0z8XidA/s400/P1000519.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    In through the front door I stumble sopping wet but spirits lifted. I’m greeted by the owner Ben who immediately offers up some hot coffee and one of his fresh out of the oven “best cinnamon buns on the highway”. It lived up to the billing, all 3000 calories of it.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="&quot;Best buns on the highway.&quot;"]<img title="TE9" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRnxYsSPFI/AAAAAAAABUY/-9r0gpaCgZk/s400/P1000513.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    Just then the door swung open and in walks another biker dripping wet and looking as miserable as I did 20 minutes ago. He looked at me and said something to the effect of being a beautiful day for riding, to which I responded that at least we’re entertaining our masochistic side. We both laughed, because if we weren’t laughing we’d be crying. He grabbed a coffee as well and we got to talking. John is from Vancouver and owns 1% of 10% of an energy company that makes fuel cells, and is out riding his Harley Fat Boy up to the Arctic Circle for “something to do”. I know what he means; I’m flogging my KLR clear up to Deadhorse just to take a picture. Both are meaningless ends, the goal is the journey itself. John found a room a bit farther up the road, so he continued on while I retired to my rustic cabin.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Me and John"]<img title="TE11" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRn8AneiII/AAAAAAAABUo/R-yaUmXL0hQ/s400/P1000514.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    And rustic it was, a wood stove for heat, plywood bunk beds, no electric after 10pm and no running water. Oh well, even at $60 it still beats a tent in this weather.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="My cabin for the night..."]<img title="TE12" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRoB9RFlRI/AAAAAAAABUs/JfXx1tdOe9U/s400/P1000517.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Inside my cabin..."]<img title="TE14" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRoEFWUt5I/AAAAAAAABUw/gzAujwDNrxk/s400/P1000515.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Inside my cabin..."]<img title="TE16" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRoHL8fR5I/AAAAAAAABU0/1zt-jNq1Mog/s400/P1000516.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="&quot;Chopping&quot; wood for the stove...with my Leatherman..."]<img class=" " title="TE19" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRoKNN_ymI/AAAAAAAABU4/SRgc1RbbYj4/s400/P1000522.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]
    #17
  18. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    761
    Location:
    Home...planning the next run....
    Day 16 – Tetsa River, BC to Teslin, YT 09/05/10 MIleage: 419

    The cabin was chilled by morning as the wood stove had long since burned out. I quickly packed up, said farewell to Ben and hit the road. The ground was still wet and the weather dank and overcast, but at least it wasn’t raining….so I consider that an improvement. The climb over the next pass was cold and the mountains all around had a fresh dusting of snow from the night before. The snow line at the top of the pass was perhaps only only 500-1000 feet above the road…not a good sign.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Snow just above the mountain pass..."]<img title="TS1" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRpBPtjLWI/AAAAAAAABWE/07dPfjzs6Ro/s400/P1000524.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Fresh dusting of snow from the night before..."]<img title="TS2" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRpDtM42tI/AAAAAAAABWI/V--cUzT4Nl0/s400/P1000525.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="And more snow..."]<img title="TS3" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRpIsphumI/AAAAAAAABWQ/N7i_Dar96no/s400/P1000527.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    As I descended the pass the weather began to improve and the roads were now dry.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Sun at last!"]<img title="TS4" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRpQVxo28I/AAAAAAAABWU/CcHhSro6o8A/s400/P1000528.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    The scenery around Muncho Lake was spectacular and the lake itself crystal clear….reminiscent of Lake Tahoe. The sun was now out and the temperature had inched its way into the low 60’s…perfect!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Scenery in the Munch Lake area..."]<img title="TS5" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRpTZeqELI/AAAAAAAABWY/Yf4JtqiHexQ/s400/P1000529.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Scenery near Muncho Lake..."]<img title="TS6" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRpXDmIdTI/AAAAAAAABWc/p5OGmSEpQtc/s400/P1000530.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="There is a picture at every bend in the road up here..."]<img title="TS7" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRpcURbNhI/AAAAAAAABWg/1mdAAKkNJuQ/s400/P1000531.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="The KLR taking a break...with a view."]<img title="TS8" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRpmyfJeuI/AAAAAAAABWs/Iy-u9Au_Ox8/s400/P1000534.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Muncho Lake, BC"]<img title="TS9" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRpv8GyT1I/AAAAAAAABW4/IEal1JM0fPs/s400/P1000537.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Muncho Lake, BC"]<img title="TS10" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRp2zl8lyI/AAAAAAAABXA/GJD9vKuJ5MY/s400/P1000539.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Next stop was the Liard River Hot Springs and…WOW…what a find that was! The hot springs themselves were kept rustic and natural…and it was only $5 to enter the park. I soaked in the hot springs for over an hour which was a treat after all the cold and rain.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Liard Hot Springs"]<img title="TS12" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRp6um9miI/AAAAAAAABXE/oDfAfVWvLkM/s400/P1000543.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Liard Hot Springs"]<img title="TS13" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRqBZxwhHI/AAAAAAAABXI/yj-tHgnKzh4/s400/P1000544.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Liard Hot Springs"]<img title="TS14" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRqFPXljwI/AAAAAAAABXM/DrhE9YglShc/s400/P1000545.JPG" alt="" width="300" height="400" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Liard Hot Springs"]<img title="TS15" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRqJiaZGxI/AAAAAAAABXU/iyFeQPN8VNE/s400/P1000546.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Soaking it all in...."]<img title="TS16" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRqM0-macI/AAAAAAAABXY/vMoPFGwcbss/s400/P1000548.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After the soak it was time to make some tracks as the clock is ticking louder by the minute. I spoke with a local at the springs and they confirmed, at least in my mind, that winter is indeed coming early and this unseasonably cold weather is not just a fluke. They got their information not from some PHD meteorologist, but from the caribou and geese…both of whom departed the area 2 weeks earlier than normal…a sure sign of an early winter. For now though, the weather was perfect and I was on the throttle making time.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Roadside buffalo..."]<img title="TS18" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRqXXl9HmI/AAAAAAAABXg/ryMmQPMChzw/s400/P1000551.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="More roadside buffalo..."]<img title="TS19" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRqdpDkf-I/AAAAAAAABXk/yI5NLH1Rad8/s400/P1000552.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Welcome to the Yukon!"]<img title="TS20" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRqg9Jj5mI/AAAAAAAABXo/YxEVncQjYlM/s400/P1000553.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="The famous Signpost Forest in Watson Lake"]<img title="TS21" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRqlIpJ3AI/AAAAAAAABXs/O3zd9lCgWEw/s400/P1000554.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="It would take weeks to look at all the signs!"]<img title="TS24" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRquwwZBqI/AAAAAAAABX0/Jibsz9aS8l8/s400/P1000556.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    It wasn’t meant to last though, as the clouds began to form on the horizon and the temperature was dropping as I rode north and west.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Clouds again...and soon more rain and cold..."]<img title="TS27" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIRq5q0zpnI/AAAAAAAABYA/6_OZrvm84xk/s400/P1000559.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Soon my old friend returned and I was again wet and cold. I hunkered down behind the KLR’s meager fairing and pressed on into the Yukon Territory to Teslin. Cold and wet like the night before, I found refuge in the Yukon Motel in Teslin which is quite a nice place by my recent standards. My room came complete with heat, running water and even a flush toilet…luxurious!
    #18
  19. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    761
    Location:
    Home...planning the next run....
    Day 17 – Teslin, YT to Beaver Creek, YT 09/06/10 Mileage: 394

    Morning came and of course it was raining. The forecast was for clearing mid-morning so I decided to wait and make use of the internet connection while I had it. I also did some maintenance on the KLR and noticed the rear tire is wearing down much faster than I had planned. It was brand new right before the trip, and I was hoping it would make it to Seattle. At this point it will be lucky to see Fairbanks…and I hope it does as that’s the only town I can get a replacement at this point! So, at the crack of 11 I started making my way out of town…with one last stop for gas. As I pulled up to the pump, there were two other riders there…one on a Kawasaki and the other on a Honda Goldwing. We got to talking and they are both from Fairbanks making their way down to Vancouver. Pete, the big guy on the Gold Wing has put 45,000 miles on it in two years…including a cross-country trip to the Jersey Shore….pretty cool!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Fellow bike travelers..."]<img title="YT1" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIXELB00gzI/AAAAAAAABdM/ThpDaATKLYM/s400/P1000560.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    So after the standard telling of stories and lies, I was off and making tracks towards Whitehorse. The weather was overcast with spots of rain, but I’ll take that over the total soakers of the last 2 days.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="On the road to Whitehorse..."]<img title="YT2" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIXEMr-horI/AAAAAAAABdQ/Rwacxx630-U/s400/P1000561.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    In Whitehorse, I ran some errands, had a quick bite and met a great group of riders while topping up the tank. They were on their way back from Inuvik, the farthest town accessible by road in Canada. The couple on the left is from Nederland, CO…very close to my friends Paul and Kim in Golden. I had breakfast two minutes from their house just over a week ago…small world. The gal in the middle is from Georgia and rode up from Colorado also. The other couple was riding two-up with luggage on an old model KLR from Seattle….and I thought my bike was weighed down!

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="L to R: Couple from Nederland, gal from Georgia, couple from Seattle"]<img title="YT3" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIXEOP-7rcI/AAAAAAAABdU/TaBia-f8adE/s400/P1000562.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    After wishing each other a safe journey, I was off again…this time to try and make it to Beaver Creek, YT close to the Alaska border. I don’t have many pictures as the weather was dreary, the light flat and I wanted to make up for the late departure this morning. The scenery around Haines Junction all the way to Beaver Creek was outstanding, it’s too bad the clouds obscured the peaks of the mountain range or I would have some great photos!

    <p style="text-align:center;">

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Mountains near Haines Junction, YT"]<img class=" " title="YT4" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIXEQr_WQ9I/AAAAAAAABdc/bj0eQtmSjUw/s400/P1000564.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Gas stop near Destruction Bay, YT"]<img title="YT5" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIXESR1t2vI/AAAAAAAABdk/mIQojNuoiyw/s400/P1000566.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="At least it&#039;s not raining!"]<img title="YT6" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIXETkYxpDI/AAAAAAAABdo/icY3khAeh_E/s400/P1000567.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    The weather did clear and the sun came out for the last hour into Beaver Creek…so that was a welcome change.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Sun at last!"]<img title="YT8" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIXEXdfPETI/AAAAAAAABd4/ebLEQiqVtTs/s400/P1000571.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Dinner was at Buckshot Betty’s and I found a reasonable room at the “1202” motel. Tomorrow, it’s on to Fairbanks, AK where the KLR will get a new pair of shoes and some much needed maintenance.
    #19
  20. DirtyBones

    DirtyBones Donde esta...?

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    761
    Location:
    Home...planning the next run....
    Day 18 – Beaver Creek, YT to Fairbanks, AK 09/07/10 Mileage: 319

    Today was all about crossing into Alaska and getting to Fairbanks. The weather was the same as it has been since leaving Colorado….cool to cold…some sun, lots of rain.

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Here&#039;s what $68 gets you in Beaver Creek, YT...half a single wide trailer."]<img class=" " title="FA1" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIcSzUvTxlI/AAAAAAAABeU/ViUkm-aGSDg/s400/P1000574.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Back in the U S, back in the U S...back in the U S (S) A!"]<img title="FA2" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIcS0eblzxI/AAAAAAAABeY/gN9a6wSJrqI/s400/P1000575.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    The scenery was good, but mostly obscured by clouds so I hardly took any pictures. I did see a female moose walking around in a shallow lake, so I stopped to watch for a while. It seems they also eat aquatic plants…who knew?

    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Roadside moose..."]<img title="FA4" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIcS2ENNuCI/AAAAAAAABec/_Tvox-cDY4Q/s400/P1000576.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Roadside moose..."]<img title="FA6" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zBQaG6crcqw/TIcS3JSOrGI/AAAAAAAABeg/XoN7ueMsmVQ/s400/P1000577.JPG" alt="" width="400" height="300" />[/caption]



    Anyway, what I lack in pictures I will make up for in a harrowing tale. I stopped for lunch in Tok, AK and had lunch at the Grumpy Grizz. Being cold and wet, I ordered coffee…4 cups of coffee in fact to try and warm up. Now, those of you who know me well know I don’t drink much coffee and no other caffeinated drinks for sure. You might see where this is going. So, I got back on the bike and started making miles for Fairbanks. Just about the time I was sufficient distance from Tok to be in the middle of f---ing no ware, the urge to have to go numero dos snuck up and became, umm, rather urgent. Now, in the wilds of Alaska, if a bear shits in the woods and nobody hears it, will anybody know? Well, if I shit in the woods, I don’t think anyone would know either, but what’s stopping me from pulling over is the hummingbird size misquotes that would use my bare ass for a pin cushion. Rather than suffer that fate, with gritted teeth and clinched cheeks (of the rear end variety), I pressed on. But that is not the harrowing tale I am speaking of, but merely what I was thinking at the time that I hit an unmarked section of loose grave doing 85 mph. The rear tire as you may recall is half bald and offered little grip on the ball bearings they use for gravel up here. The sensation was that the front of the bike was in a race with the rear, and the rear was winning. In fact, I waved to it on its way by and thought, boy, those side bags are filthy, someone should really clean those up. So in the end, I would have shit myself for sure were it not for those 4 cups of coffee….
    #20