From Estonia with love (Round the World)

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by tsiklonaut, Jun 30, 2009.

  1. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    Sounds like the start of an HP Lovecraft horror story :lol3

    Great report - I love the mix of photographic styles!

    Cheers
    Clint
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  2. BELSTAFF

    BELSTAFF ADV NOMAD

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    I think the first time I joined you was in august of 2008, I had just discovered ADV Rider, you were my first subscription to follow.
    So I thank you for 10 + years of great photos, stories & interaction communications. It has been an amazing adventure, don't ever stop.
    OU812, Saso, twinie and 1 other person like this.
  3. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    "We Are Our Mountains" memorial in Stepanakert, the capital of Artsakh (or Nagorno-Karabakh as known internationally)








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    Nagorno-Karabakh churches have a different design. It is claimed the native people of the Artsakh mountains live among the longest in the World
    - over 100 years if the war battles with Azerbaijan doesn't take them before their time.







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    3 men died in this tank fighting for the freedom of Artsakh
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  4. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    The more decorated Artsakh tanks are put on mountainsides as statues, those are the tank crews that got the most kills from the recent war.
    To their bravery and credit they did beat a much stronger, better supported and a vastly bigger army, liberated their country and even created
    an additional land buffer down on the plains but with heavy losses on their side as well. Almost every Artsakhi has a family member who died in the war with Azerbaijan.







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    Mikoyan brothers house museum in Armenia. One of the brothers was the chief designer of the famous MiG fighter airplanes, a MiG-21 on display in front of his house.
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  5. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    A wild camp in Caucasus. Here I feel free.







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    With stunning views to the Great Caucasus unveiling.







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    We found a secret small chapel hidden in the mountains with a nonexistant track leading there.
    Seba1, Uke, rockydog and 7 others like this.
  6. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    Thanks Clint,

    It's a bit unusual way of using film on travels these days, but since I still do occasionally wet-darkroom work it's the best way for me. I am oldschool and like fully hand-made art, it is a dying art in the current machine- and computerized convinience era but I personally prefer and love it over anything else.



    Massive thank you!

    It's been a great ride with you guys and since you mentioned your firsts, now looking at my ADVrider account I can't believe I've been around in those forums for over 14 years in a row (since 2004). That's almost half a lifetime by today's standard. :lol3

    It's a real honor to have such a great inmates around!
    Uke, Rich Rider, OU812 and 4 others like this.
  7. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    [​IMG]
    Armenian landscape got relatively flat in north.









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    But there's lots of space to set up a (windy) camp.







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    Geghard monastery in Armenia, partly built into the mountain.






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    Geghard.
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  8. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    [​IMG]
    Divine light inside. People went circles around the pillars, light the candles, say their prayers, cross themselves to seek their renewals,
    I just stand still, observe the human affection in chaos and stare the systematic light above, changing the angle very slowly
    but steadily as the Sun goes over the point of zenith, the epitome of my daily enlightment.








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    Eternal light with candles lit up all the time.






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    The sky opening up above Lake Van.
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  9. twinie

    twinie Gabe

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    Amazing colors on those two last posts... incredible.
    tsiklonaut likes this.
  10. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    Lake Van wasn't far off to have the Aral sea destiny in the Soviet era of irresponsible engineering. Diverted water for farming irrigation sucked many
    meters of it's level down, but Armenian scientists came to their senses before the real catastrophe hit.
    Now the lake is slowly recovering but you can still see the "greed scars" on Van's shores.









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    Lake Van on moonlight.








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    Nearly a thousand years old church where we wild camped, off the tourist trail and off tourist map thus nobody around, just you and the wind. It was fairly hard to get here, obviously.
    The door was ripped off (as you can see on the pic), but everything inside the church was untouched - golden pieces on altar etc. Unbelieavably refreshing.
    I love this kind of trust based World, a very anti-capitalistic and anti-consumerist way of doing and sharing things, gives some hope to mankind.
    Seba1, Uke, Frey Bentos and 9 others like this.
  11. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    You know when it is a moment of life's high.






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    Riding in the mountains never gets old.








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    Watchtowers were to warn if the neighbouring village clan was coming to attack. They moved all the village into the towers so this created a stalemate
    situation most of the time.







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    Our home sweet home.
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  12. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    [​IMG]
    Ancient arches and unique scripts embedded in the floor - Christianity and it's rites are among the oldest in the World here. Sanahin monastery from the 10th century.







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    Gergeti Trinity.







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    Those churches are so old the small trees literally grow on their roofs and walls. Sanahin.








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    Our favourite "secret" little church on a mountaintop, nearing a thousand years old. Favourite because a rough track leading here.
    Bikes parked under the tree in the background - this is where we slept in a complete silence, so silent you could hear your heart pumping the blood in your arteries.
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  13. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    Armenian butchers from Gyumri. They specialize on lamb heads which is a local delicacy in Gyumri.
    All Armenia makes jokes about them, but they are fabulous folk. On the market they showed their craft
    and invited us for a little "lemonade" at the local unofficial market bar in a dark corner. The "lemonade"
    turned out to be a super strong moonshine. Till a local university history professor showed up and stunned
    us with is knowlede about Estonia. It's a small world of coincidence and with that moonshine oh boy it was a day to remember!







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    Port of Baku, Azerbaijan.










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    Waiting for our ship in Baku. Soviet Union ruined many areas with oil spills from dirty careless pumping, the devastation is still seen today.










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    Qobustan mud volcanoes.










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    Otherworldly landscapes in Azerbaijan.
    EFT., Uke, Frey Bentos and 7 others like this.
  14. Treadless

    Treadless avoiding gravity storms if at all possible Supporter

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    Thank you for posting the "raw" photos, I am really enjoying them. They seem so much more real to me knowing that what I'm seeing is what you were seeing and not some modified digital version. And it shows your true talent with a camera because there is no do overs, you had to get it right on the spot. :bow
    tsiklonaut likes this.
  15. ciupa

    ciupa n00b

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    Simply magnificent!
    I feel immense admiration for you two. I have been following you for years, unfortunately I do not know English, but with "translate" everything is easier now.
    This summer my wife and I were in Estonia on motorbikes, and we were fascinated by your country ....
    We will be back...
    I join the congratulations for the photos that make all readers, wonderful.
    Alberto from Venice
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  16. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    Crossing over the Caspian Sea.







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    Caspian.








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    Our wake as the night falls... We went to sleep on deck since it was an old rusting barely floating ship with toilets not working and no AC inside, meaning it's unbearable
    to be inside cabins in the Caspian humid heat. We took out our sleeping bags and went to sleep on the deck under the Asian starry sky.








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    The davits squeaked all night and we were bitten by mosquitoes a lot. But as a payoff the sunrise light play was nice, another day has began on the Caspian Sea.










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    Soon we enjoyed our first Steppe - pure joy! (with lots of big spiders around keeping us well guarded)
    Seba1, EFT., Uke and 10 others like this.
  17. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    Cheers! Working with analog is indeed very different and much harder compared to fully digital workflow. I wouldn't recommend shooting film to anyone unless you're into hand-made art and like it doing things the hard way (for a better personal reward) and it's the best teacher in terms of failures.


    Grazie, Alberto!

    Welcome to ADVrider and pleased to hear you enjoy the ride report.

    And your English is very good!

    Safe travels,
    Margus
    Uke, OU812 and Critic like this.
  18. kneeslider

    kneeslider Insufficient privileges!

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    :clap
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  19. OU812

    OU812 Legend in my own Mind! Supporter

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    I'm just glad I found your RR and was able to donate a few.
    So well worth it.
    Still paying off! ;)
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  20. tsiklonaut

    tsiklonaut the (in)famous boxer perv

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    Happy new 2019!!


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    A warm beer is better than no beer - welcome to Uzbekistan!











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    Hissar mountains South Uzbekistan. Check the cattle track patterns, an art in itself!







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    Hissar sunset from our tent. It was bloody hot since the heated ground of the semi-desert worked like
    a radiator all night beneath you, but a great wild camp none the less!









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    Hearding is the most common income in the South Uzbekistan. Your lungs are filled constantly with a cow dung dust,
    but ironically it smells like earth itself - for locals, life is harsh here!
    Seba1, EFT., Uke and 12 others like this.