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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by tsiklonaut, Jun 30, 2009.
It is always a joy to view your images and RR!
Cheers to you both.
Thank you sir!
Thank you so much for the feedback and a personal perspective on things. I find it's truly heartwarming to know some find this RR inspiring!
Dried up Aral sea. So awkward to see and walk in the place that used to be many meters underwater.
Sand bushes are like waves hitting the hull.
The hulls rusting away where the same ships were floating on multiple meters of water it's now a sand desert.
Huge fishing ship on the bottom of Aral sea.
Nostrils of the dying monster (anchor holes)
I never tire of seeing film done well, and doubly so for IR.
They were so surprised to see us visiting their remote village that those uzbeks bought us a beer.
Uzbek lady knew Estonia and been there during the Soviet time, said it was very "western" for them.
The last view on Bukhara before we headed on South.
Into Tajikistan. The mountains got rocky and higher as we went, the people got poorer.
The landscapes got high altitude, which means high altitude desert since very few plants can survive here at 4000 meters.
Down the valleys it was lush, where's water there's life. Afghanistan side of the river visible here.
Camping in a green river stream bed at 3800 meters above sealvel.
Yamchun fortress, siting at a eagle nest position on high altitude and dating from 3rd century B.C., hence it's over 2000 years old.
High altitude plateau, we are searching a meteor crater here, but it was so big we couldn't grasp it.
Panj river with Afghanistan Hindu-Kush peaks visible.
The Great Pamir range from our camping spot.
I’m continually impressed and awed with your travels and gifted photography! Awesome!
Pamir panoramas. Great terrain and pistes!
Hindu-Kush range visible in Afghanistan side.
It's hard to believe you're at 4000 meters above sealevel. On a plateau. Other than weakness, a loss of breath, a bit disabled sense of balance often accompanied with a mild to strong headaches
with your own blood pressure ringing your ear drums against the weaker outer pressure of the altitude. I find them to be perfectly fine side effects, especially being in an adventure mode.
The bikes have lost nearly half of their power too, barely going 1st-2nd gear in full throttle on the steeper climbs.
We took a small unmapped trails deep into the remote Pamirs, but they climbed up too fast. Soon I was feeling crap and just before reaching the nearest village where
a doctor was available I had an AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) in full force and literally fell off the bike at the destination, vomiting. Weak and miserable. My brave wife was my only saviour.
just googled max altitude gain, princeton university recommendation is: above 10,000ft-3300 meters , allow a days rest for every 1000meters gain.
The village where I was down with AMS for some days.
The window on the right is where I spend couple of days recuperating from AMS - but every downfall is an opportunity - I got to know the village!
I got to know the local people, including the local mechanics.
Boys delivering an old abandoned tyre from the Pamir highway to the tyre shop. Nothing is wasted here.
Pamir living - winters are incredibly harsh here, down to -50C is quite common. Hence there aren't many windows on the houses to preserve the heat inside.
Village children with candies, it's a real treat for them.
An old abandoned Zhiguly - brings back nostalgia, it's the first car I drove.
"It' so silent and peaceful here, the sky is deep blue, the air is clean, the water is pure and mineral rich. I'd never want to leave to the lower grounds,
let alone to a polluted city." . Elderly Tajik woman, she's mostly doing herding, living and working permanently at the harsh environment of 4000 meters
above the sealevel with skies so clear above your head
The Sisters made us a fine fried fish originating from a nearby lake situated at a staggering 4000 meters above sea level in one of the harshest places
in the whole Tajikistan where blizzard winters can easily drop to -60C. I thought fish can't live on those conditions and altitudes. They really know their stuff!
While walking around the village with my head still humming from the aftereffects of AMS I met a water girl bringing drinking water from the spring
well to her home. She was not very chatty, it's not normal to be towards a stranger, but still very curious about the life outside her village where she
hasn't been much.
Marcus, this last set of portraits are fantastic! Thanks so much to you and Kariina for sharing your experiences and adventures, particularly your images.
1000m is a bit pushing over 3500m. To be safe around 500m per 24h is a safer bet. You can go higher during the day, but come back down to sleep. This works the best in my practice. I've been all the way to 5300 meters in Indian Himalayas with this method no problems, but was pushing too quick in Pamirs this time thinking 4000m is nothing - never get too confident I guess :)
Thank you guys, glad you like this RR feed!
As I got better we headed off to higher grounds.
Pamir tracks are great!
Buddhist monks used to lived in those caves over a thousand years ago when Buddhism was at it's peak in the area.
Sorry about your sickness (AMS) but I must say the photos from the village and of its people are mind blowing, just stunning. It is really great to see these shots, and imagine life at that elevation, so far away.
Thanks! Yes, it is indeed a unique place and environment just very few are fit to live.