From the Alps to Magadan

Discussion in 'Asia Pacific' started by PedroCH, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. PedroCH

    PedroCH King of Kings

    Joined:
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    Hello everyone,

    I'm planning a long trip with no time constraints : I'll be finished with my Master, I will quit the part time job and the only things that will belong to me, will be the the motorbike (The Beast) and the travelling gear.

    I've recently sold the Gas Gas JTX, sad but necessary.

    I've been looking around a lot but I could not get all informations that I wanted. Any feedbacks and hints is welcome!

    It's going to be a pure motorbike ride, I won't be stopping in cities that much as I will be able to do that in the future with an airplane, with a family&kids, etc. I'm more willing to see Tomtor, Kol'su lake, Wakhan corridor & co as it's more complicated and wild.

    When: I'll start riding from Lugano latest on Monday 18th of June 2018.

    The first part of the trip is the Marathon stage, more in detail: first day I will ride from Lugano to Bosnia, all on motorways, then from there on, not aynmore. After the ferry in Çanakkale, I will cut straight through the mountains there (first gravel roads to Edremit), then small paved roads to Ölüdeniz. Here a mix of beautiful gravel roads till Adana. from there on pavement till Iran, where there will be some gravel fun in the Mountains between Iran and the Caspian sea.
    Then asphalt till Samarcanda, unless I find something worth riding it.

    Here more or less the route, without the gravel roads, please be advised that all these maps provided in this first post are not exactly the route I will be going on as including small gravel roads is not easy on google map:

    https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Biha...!2m2!1d66.9749731!2d39.627012!2m2!1b1!2b1!3e0

    Why Marathon stage, because it will be literally a Marathon. I've done this already 2 years ago when I went down to Georgia, it will be fine as it will be for a "greater good". It took me 6 days to reach Artvin with an average of 720 km per day. So as it is almost double the route to Samarcanda and I will be doing a little bit more gravel, I've planned 20 days for reaching Samarcanda in worst case(10th of July), most likely it will take less than 15.
    I'm really ready to skip up sout East Turkey as it is close to Europe and it will be easy to go there again in the future.

    Now first question: What about taking the farry from Baku to Türkmenbaşy? For going through Iran I will have to do the Carnet and I have no idea how much it will cost me. Can anyone tell me the pro and the cons of the ferry? (I have never travelled for more than 40 minutes on a ferry.)

    Then After Samarcanda: Pamir, not on the M41 but on the border with Afghanistan and on the Wakhan corridor. I will go araund a lot and see many places. I've calculated 20 [15]days for reaching the border with Russia (30th of July).

    https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Sama...5b3a1d:0xe943dff1dd5ec978!1m0!2m2!1b1!2b1!3e0

    Then Altay + Mongolia, I don't know yet, at first I had considered to do Altay and then go directly to BAM but I've been advised to go to Mongolia. I've calculated 20 days for Altay + Mongolia and for reaching the south of Lake Baikal. I still have to plan this completely. (20th of August)

    https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Ulan...1d107.607338!2d51.8238785!1m0!2m2!1b1!2b1!3e0

    Then I will have 20 days for going up the East side of lake Baikal (if I won't be alone, weather conditions ok), otherwise I will go up the West side, doing the BAM till Tynda and then reaching Magadan. Old Summer Road is with the same if as the East side of Lake Baikal.

    So, if everything goes as the schedule, by the 10th of September I will be in Magadan. (Thanks to Walter Colebatch for advising me about the weather change around this date!)

    After Magadan, I don't know, I might go to China, Sout East Asia or America. I will see.

    This is the raw trip planning. Please argue with it :-)


    Practical part:
    Heavily modified XRV 650, the Beast. I don't consider it a problem.
    Tyres: Mitas E07 for sure till the Altay as it all more or less dry. From there on, should I go for enduro tyres for Mongolia and for the wet BAM&co?


    Camping Gear: I don't know, I really would like not to camp so that I could cut a lot of weight and liters on luggages (The side luggages are almost entirely full with tent, sleeping bag & mattess).
    Is it necessary to have camping gear on BAM & Road of Bones?

    If not, I will have to change I have , Sleeping bag with a confort -7° C.
    Do you reckon -10° C would be enough?


    Any other gear?
    GPS Phone?
    Mosquito repellant?
    Something against bears?

    Thank you very much.

    Cheers,

    Norman
    #1
  2. Julio Trepazzo

    Julio Trepazzo Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Moscow, Russia
    Hi, dude!
    You've planned a very great trip, and it seems to be very long and difficult.
    Let me introduce my suggestions.
    1) There is no border crossing between Turkey and Armenia.
    2) It's almost impossible to obtain Turkmenistan visa, and the ferry schedule in Caspian region is not firm as well. So you better aviod going this way and take you trip either through Kazakhstan Republic or Iran (but you'll have to provide Carnet de passage for Iran).
    3) Entering Uzbekistan from Kz get ready to spend a lot of time on border crossing - many uzbek people goes back home from Russia, and carry a lot of luggage, which is totally checked.
    4) In Uz I'd suggest you to go to Hiva and Bukhara and not to spent a lot for Samarkand (visit the restaurants next to beer factory there).
    5) There is no road from Ulan-Ude to BAM (so-colled 110-winter highway - is abandonned former road which was made to supply BAM construction. Now it passes through the National park, special permit required, and is normally used by 4x4 travellers with big wheels and special equipment. So it's better to start with BAM from Bratsk. There no much info about direct road from Irkutsk to Zhigalovo, but I was said that it's quite difficult, and it's shorter, but U'll spend more time there.
    5) There are very few gas stations along BAM and further.
    6) There is no chance not to camp in N-E of Russia, and, sometimes it's better to camp avoiding staying in villages among drunk locals.

    GPS Phone?
    = Iridium would be good idea, but the weight. GSM is ok in cities and villages there.

    Mosquito repellant?
    = definitely. But there no much mosquitos in august in NE of Russia.

    Something against bears?
    = gun only.
    #2
  3. PedroCH

    PedroCH King of Kings

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    Hi Julio!

    Thanks for the answer!

    I've already changed my plans :-)
    I made an evaluation on how to reach Central Asia and the cheapest and also easies solution is to go through North of the Black Sean and North of the Caspian Sea.
    I will also pass by in Kiev or Vienna to get my Visa for UZ.
    Thanks for the info on the UZ border, I'm planning to enter the UZ border from Шардара.

    Then I will definitely avoid the east road on the Baikal lake and take the West one in order to join the BAM.
    #3
  4. PxPworld

    PxPworld Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Lyon - France
    Hi
    I've done France to Mongolia through Central Asia in 2015
    1/ Carnet price depends of your country or you can find someone to do a temporary carnet just for Iran if it's the only country which need it.
    2/ For Turkemistan you can get a transit visa, I've done this. But if you don't you have to go back and take the ferry in Baku.
    3/ Uzbekistan border is boring. They checked everything so be prepared to remove all your stuff from your luggage.

    So if you are really in the rush. Take the north caspian, avoid Iran & Turkemistan.
    Don't forget to take "large visa" not only 10 days. If you have any trouble it could be helpfull to have more time to fix something.

    Have a nice trip
    #4
  5. PedroCH

    PedroCH King of Kings

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    Thanks guys!

    So I've finalised the trip: I've cut away the first part.

    I will do it as follow:
    - Lugano to Атырау along this route more or less:
    https://www.google.it/maps/dir/Luga...d2d!2m2!1d51.9238373!2d47.0944959!2m1!2b1!3e0

    Then from there on I'll follow a track from advtracks:
    https://advtracks.online/tracks/vie...sing_atirau_west_to_east_through_aral_sea_bed

    Then from Baikonur I'll go to Taraz and enter Kirgizistan there. Then more or less the same as planned. Like this I'll cut off any possible problem of delays in Visa, burocracy & co which I'd like to avoid.
    #5
  6. Julio Trepazzo

    Julio Trepazzo Adventurer

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    Hi!

    I'd rather avoid some parts of eastern Ukraine like Donetsk region as it might be dangerous there due to military conflict. You better look for this information in some ukranian forums.
    #6
  7. PedroCH

    PedroCH King of Kings

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    Holy cow, I thought that shit was over, thanks for the heads up!
    #7
  8. Julio Trepazzo

    Julio Trepazzo Adventurer

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    That shit is slill sluggishly boiling. Unfortunately.

    So better look for either going by Kharkov or avoiding Ukraine.

    I'd suggest you to go visit Odessa there as well - very nice city.
    #8
  9. PedroCH

    PedroCH King of Kings

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    Ukraina it's the shortest route.

    Kharkov is also fine. There are no concerns for crossing the border there, right?

    What about going through Crimea? :lol3
    #9
  10. Julio Trepazzo

    Julio Trepazzo Adventurer

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    Ukraina it's the shortest route.
    = but the roads...

    Kharkov is also fine. There are no concerns for crossing the border there, right?
    = should be ok.

    What about going through Crimea? :lol3
    =AFAIK, it's better to go there from RF. Otherwise you might face troubles with ukrainian authorities next time.
    #10
  11. PedroCH

    PedroCH King of Kings

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    Thank you very much!

    I know it's going to be 6 "boring" days to get to Атырау, but it's for a greater good.
    #11
  12. Julio Trepazzo

    Julio Trepazzo Adventurer

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    They shouldn't be boring - the only thing is you want mostly enduro, but here will be asphalt along all the way.

    How many days are you planning to spend in Russia travelling from Baikal to Magadan?
    What is your next idea to go to from Magadan?
    #12
  13. PedroCH

    PedroCH King of Kings

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    I'm sorry, I didn't explained me well.
    I will be riding from here to Аtyrau only on paved roads
    Then follow the track from advtracks, from Baikonur I will follow the main roads to Taraz. It should take around 10 days.
    So I will have around 70 days for many things:
    I've planned multiple things in Central Asia, the "biggest" is the loop starting at Karakul lake, riding on the Bartang Valley, going south on the Wakhan Valley, till I'll be on the M41 again to see the Yashikul lake, then to Zorkylsky Nature Refuge, till I'll be back on the Karakul lake. Then multiple things along a way that go to Issyk kul. Around 20 days
    Back on Kazakistan I will head to Altay and explore a little bit there, 15 days with stop in Novosibirsk for getting new tyres
    Then enter Mongolia and spend 20 days on a route I still have to plan and I will end up in Irkutsk.
    From there BAM and "easy" road to Magadan. Maybe Old Summer Road depending on the condition (weather, mine, timing, etc), around 15 days.

    After Magadan, I don't know yet, shipping the bike to somewhere, might be south America or back to Europe.

    Cheers!
    #13
  14. PxPworld

    PxPworld Adventurer

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    If you have some question on the road to magadan ask Mike, his blog : www.optionX.ch . I met him in 2015 we ride together one part of central asia.
    His blog is not up to date but he has done his world trip.
    #14
  15. PedroCH

    PedroCH King of Kings

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    Thanks again!
    #15
  16. Kroml8r

    Kroml8r Adventurer

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    Sounds like a great trip. Keen to hear your report, especially from Mongolia to Magadan as I am hoping to do this (in reverse) in 2019. I'm hoping the OSM is doable, but so far I am on my own, so maybe not advisable. Also keen to here if you get across the Vitim bridge as you said you may go up the west side of Lake Baikal. I'm not sure what the road is like from Ikab'ya through Khani to Ust'Nyukzha.
    #16