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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by wjrudo, Nov 29, 2012.
HPOskam is trying to find someone to take over the production of these converters
I don't know the answer to your question. What I do know is that I could not get a full range of reading from the float conversion. At first, it read full when full but real empty (330 miles later it only read half and the range was as though I had half a tank. I tried calibrating the float conversion as though it was a fuel strip and from then on a full tank only reflected as 2 bars with an estimated range of 80 miles. When there was only a gallon left in the tank it would show 1 bar and a range of 60 miles.
Therefore I reinstalled the strip and recalibrated the computer to the strip then reinstalled the float. When done I had three bars showing with an estimated range of 135. I filled the tank and the range went to 450 and the gauge reads full. I will put some miles on it this week and let you know how it goes.
My friend did the conversion on his bike with no issues. BluByU seems to have had no problems either with his conversion.
So it seems to be working now. That's good.
How's your strip to float conversion working out? I have not run enough fuel thru my bike since the update to be definitive but so far my float/gauge seems to be reading artificially high...(similar to Carlisja)...
Update: Went for a ride this last 3 days, and had a chance to run the tank almost empty. For the first two days I would go just short of 3 hundred miles and see the gauge drop two maybe 3 bars before filling up, Rather disappointing.
Yesterday leaving the gas station I calculated the bike has been getting around 42mpg, assuming the tank was close to 9 gallons I should be able to get close to 380 miles and I planned my route so as to run out not too far from a gas station.
At about 300 miles I noticed I had dropped 3 bars off the gauge. At 340 I was down to 1 bar left and at 360 the low fuel and yellow triangle came on!!! At this point the remaining miles began to count down at an alarming rate, maybe one mile a second. THe countdown leveled out at about 35 miles to go and began to move at a normal rate. Being tired and not on the mood to be standing on the side of the highway pouring my 2 quart can of gas into the bike as traffic raced by in the dark, I pulled into a service station. The dash read 373.3 miles with 30 mile range
and it took 9.541 gallons to fill it back where I started.
So for those that just skipped to the end, Yes the gauge works about as accurately as the fuel strip. THe gauge starts out dropping slowly then picks up speed as the tank gets empty and the low fuel warning light does come on.
I just completed my first full tank of gas after the tank drain and re-calibrate procedure and my results are just about on par with what blubyu reported in post 265 (above), so I am declaring victory!
... and I made spoof device which is working fine: fuel gauge always displays full tank, no more warning lights and disturbing messages on dash
Got it done finally after receiving resistors. Works great! Just takes a minute or 2 for the ECU to recognize. Now has a permanently full tank. I am going to save a lot of money on gas! Thanks for all the hard work figuring out for all us amateurs.....much appreciated
I designed similar electronics and will test it this week, regards BProeme@planet.nl
What a load of crap. This cannot work. You would have to be an idiot to try.......
wait - it did. Woohooo!
Hello from Argentina, it may be that in the first photo where the resistors are placed have the 1M ohms connected to pin 2 of the chip and the 2K connected to pin 3 and 4 ?? I'm not good with the electronica, that's why I ask.
sorry for the truduction just riding a motorbike
To refit the fuel pump use grease on the pump body and INSIDE of the rubber gasket but DO NOT grease between gasket and fuel tank rim.
This allows the pump to slide into place with minimal risk of dislodging the gasket. Check you can see the gasket edge all the way around before screwing on the sealing ring.
Pins 1 and 4 are the fuel strip heater circuit. Pins 2 and 3 are the level sensing resistor.
The heater is powered for about 20 seconds and the sensing resistance is measured. About 20 seconds later the process repeats. The portion of strip immersed in fuel does not heat up so the strip, so resistance changes with fuel level. The spoof circuit will not work without the 1 Megohm resistor between pins 3 and four. Nobody knows why.
It is believed the strips fail because the sensing circuit cracks due to being heated and cooled.
The full converter kit is now available on eBay. Not a low cost option though.
2K ohm spoofs a full fuel tank reading. Does anyone know what the tank empty resistance value is?
It is not so expensive when you factor in that it already includes the float.
Just a tad over $400 US incl shipping.
Not worth the cost to me since my dealer is less than 10 miles away, they're a nice group of people, the cost to replace a fuel strip is $0., and I use the odometer to know when to refill my tank!
Didn't think it would work. Bought a BBQ igniter from the local Lowes 10.99. It includes wire that will hook into the fuel strip connection on the tank. Zapped five times each circuit, fuel gauge works. Yes I could take it in but my dealer is 40 miles away, would have to leave bike with him. This was 30 minutes of work and easy to do. Will see how long it lasts. 2008 GS Adventure, 52,000 miles first fuel strip failure.
I've zapped mine several times. Lasts about the same as a new fuel strip. I've always used my trip meter anyway. What a pita on on otherwise great machine.
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