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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Bloodweiser, Dec 20, 2010.
I think he lowered the forks in the triple trees to compensate for the increased sag.
Glad you're getting it sorted. My factory non progressive springs, with a small spacer to set preload, worked out great on mine.
I have the longer damper rods in the forks, and when I had the springs out (and no oil) I found I could push the wheel up till the lower fork parts would hit the lower triple tree or close to it.
So I made the top of the tubes (caps) about flush with the clamps, they had been up an inch at least.
The new springs allow more travel and more sag and I did not want things to hit.
With oil I think the hydrolock bump stop comes into play.
With the progressive springs the forks would sag about 3/4 and inch to an inch with me on the bike, but the travel never went past about 4 inches.
With the TW springs, static sag is an inch, sitting on the bike is another inch roughly, and travel from there is about 5 inches (so far).
So the bike sits at about the same height but I have more and softer travel.
The progressive springs really seemed too stiff to use much of the travel even under hard braking and big bumps.
I have big speed bumps in my area and the forks now absorb them much better, I can fly over them and the forks just soak them up.
I still have a lot of ground clearance and have not come close to grounding anything and I have run to the edge of the tread on the tires
(no chicken strips).
3532 miles on my 883 now and it seems to keep getting smoother.
I know most bikes get better till about 3000 miles from new but it seems odd to be breaking in a bike from 2009....
Where is that event?
It was at Pryor Field, near Decatur Alabama. Put on by the vintage club I belong to.
Prices have gone really high IMO since the china virus started. I put my filters in and had only 7 bikes to look at. With my filters incl price point 5K, I used to have pages. Big change. Seems like manufacturers are liking the scarcity as they can charge much more for what they do have. Oh well, not a buyers market for sure.
Yea, I look at seven bikes, too. All in the garage! But I'll look at more!
Stupid question: could you add a spacer to give a bit more height and preload?
Yes, you can fine tune the forks with some preload.
You can still have issues, soft springs are soft and you will get more fork dive under braking.
And even soft springs can make it hard to get the caps back on the forks with a lot of preload.
I have a bit of preload, yet the forks are still soft.
I like it that way as I have a lot of travel.
I figured it might be easier than mucking with moving the triple tree...
That is a lot easier then adding preload.
Jack front of bike up.
Loosen the two pinch bolts, push fork tube down, tighten.
Repeat other side.
Of course you have to have some above the clamp to push down, most stock setups are down all the way or close to it.
I had longer damper rods and stiff springs so the front sat up quite high, so I let the tubes slide up and inch in the clamps.
When I fit softer springs I had more sag plus more travel and put the forks all the way down in the clamps.
With the progressive springs:
Now, with an inch of sag:
Hey, so I've been slowly puttering along at replacing the oil line that blew out on my sporty. I've decided to go with more factory crimp on style hose clamps. Is there a special pair of pliers or something for installing those? Any ideas on exactly what they're called or where to get them? I'll probably go through Ronnie's to get the parts just because I appreciate how well they've organized the parts fiche.
How about "ear clamps" , and "ear clamp crimp pliers".
Thanks. I didn't know the name. "Ear clamp" alright.
I haven't specifically used them on these, but if it's anything like fuel injection hose clamps the little $12 CV-Joint clamp pliers from the local auto parts store work for me.