So I'm changing out the LC4 mainshaft bearing. Much head banging, I finally get it out. Put in the new bearing, and now the shaft is very hard to turn. According to the KTMTalk thread, one guy had this problem, used the basket as a slide hammer back against the nut, and it spun free. Wanna guess what isn't working for me? I wish this was JM, I need to SCREAM!!! Any ideas guys?
Hi Drif, After installing the new bearing, you have to give the schaft a good blow with a plastic hammer. I was told to do that by two different KTM Dealerships, so I did and "tara" works perfectly. Did it now on two engines Go for it kick it extreme bearing make over cheers Stefan
Drif, I am not looking forward to this. I going to do mine in the next few months. Sounds like your about there. Have a beer, take a deep breath and count to 53. Happe, Looked at your pic. What did you use as a bearing puller? Thanks.
why can't anyone get a bearing shop to do this? i had an old fashioned shop do the bearings on the steering column of the 65 ford f100 i used to ride and it was CHEAP. plus i didnt have to get the ford part (if it was even available anymore. just a thought; might be hard with it being on the bike but who knows?
remember...the first tool was a Hammer. so when in doubt reach for the first tool. when in real dought get a bigger hammer. I hope your documenting this as I'm gonna have to do it sometime soon also
Hi Drif, just to get this straight. You have pulled out the old ball bearing, put in the new roller bearing. first the washer than the bearing than the inner ring. Now the bearing is flush with the engine chassis? Now you tried to turn the shaft and it is going very sturdy? While you put the new bearing in place the mainschaft may have moved a bit. Normally after a good blow on the shaft it will run free again. And I mean a good blow If not try something in the other direction, but I wouldn't use the clutch parts. Edit: is the engine in gear? cheers Stefan
Dear Mr. God, I used this one from RS Components UK, 513-720 Twin Pull Ball Bearing Puller Kit And can you make me dick a bit longer? cheers Stefan
Correct on all. Tried it in and out of gear. I was wacking it pretty hard, I'll try hitting it harder, just hard to hit it flat without smacking my knuckles on something.
do you have something suitable (material) to use as a punch? maybe an oak dowel or even a 2x4 if it will transfer yer mortal blow to the shaft. just a thought - hope it lets go... oser i don't think i could'a posted that even if i'd thought of it! that would get a laugh outa drif10 4sho.
That didn't work. How hard is it to get to the other end of the shaft? Can't see how I can pull that bearing back out now, puller won't fit. For the longest time, I thought KTM stood for Kan't Take Motorcycle. Tempermental to start, finicky about fuel, no where near as reliable as a Honda, constant repairs, now faulty bearings and water pumps. The more I own this bike, the less I like it. It's qualities are being outweighed by it's difficulties.
For others who will try this, the last few mm's of tapping it in is when you should be checking for play and only tap it in til you get the right amount. If you go too far, it may be time to split the cases. If you are truly fed up I'll give you $500 for the remaining junk that works.
is the bearing loaded up from pressing it in? my bet is yes. if you pushed on the outer race to get it in give the inner race a bump with a brass drift and hammer. whack the outer if you used the inner to push.
Putting heat to it didn't work. Gonna try cobbling up a slide hammer to try and pull it out a bit. MFKTM!!!!!
I don't think it can go in too far. Here is a photo of what is behind there. I think the bearing ends up flush to that gear. That said, here is how deep mine went in. I stopped when it was flush. I can't remember if it was stopping on its own, or if I chose to stop. Make sure it is totally flush.
