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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Drif10, Mar 9, 2005.
So, could a circlip have worked partway loose or off?
Not consistent with the resistance. I believe that the bearing has seated too deeply, binding the shaft. Just what it looks and feels like. Gonna come up with a slide hammer to be able to pull back on the shaft a bit. Don't think it needs much.
good luck man. i'll kep a pair of toes crossed for you.
Hey Drify, How did this project end? Big hammer, a dozen rounds center of mass, big fire followed by an insurance claim.... We gots to know.
god bless fire.
Well, it's going like this:
We got some of this going on:
And a whole lot of this:
Sounds like a "take apart and redo" to me. With a lot more observation and testing going on.
Oh, the down side is no beer until the job is finished correctly.
The upside is you get free beer at everyone elses' bearing job from now on as consultant.
One little problem.
"Take apart and redo" with the new bearing in place means rebuild the motor time.
Old style ball bearing could be pulled out simply after removing the clutch basket.
New style roller bearing in place, that ain't happening.
None of the instructions warned of this.
Wot you needed were the destructions.
You know what O'Riley said of Murphy?
"He's an optimist!"
Sorry I too am lacking the destructions.
Fire sale? just remove the good stuff before <strike>you light it</strike> the gas leak gets to the wiring.
That sucks ass.
Is this bearing switch a recommended mod or what. Was the old bearing making metal? I need to know why you are replacing that old bearing.
I think you could pull it, but with different style hooks. The outer race is practically a 90 degree angle, easy to grab. Unfortunately, you'd probably have to trash some of the plastic cage on the bearing, thus destroying it.
Not sure what went wrong. I tapped mine in with a squared off section of PVC pipe + block of wood. I checked for binding at intervals though. I'd read about having to hit it later, and that didn't sound like something I wanted, so instead I babied it in as straight as I could. Was lucky I think.
How much does the bearing cost for this mod, assuming you do it but once, and which years were the recomended one for replacement?
I agree that you shoudl be able to get the new one out if you're willing to destroy it. Without the inner race "top hat" there is quite a bit of room to work - you might even be able to pull a roller out to get more room to hook the outer race. If you put the inner race in first ... well, this might be a problem.
I tapped mine in with a block of wood, going really slowly to be sure it went in reasonbly straight. When I got close to flush, I kept checking to be sure if the mainshaft remained free. It never bound up at all. When it was flush, I put the retainer plate on and called it a day. Just lucky, I guess.
Getting the old bearing out was another story. It ground at least ten pullers before I finally got exactly the right shape. Once you have the bearing out, you can see the problem - you've got to get a hook that is small enough to go in there, but have enough meat left to positively engage the outer race, and be stablized against the inner race so that it can't twist out. It requires a lot of trial and error to get it right. I'll write something up when I get a chance.
Scott, the bearing lists for $88 and you should replace a $3 lock tab washer. There is also a $17 gasket, but most of us have found the old gasket Okay.
Any LC4 built prior to 2003 has the old ball bearing which is suspect. Some think the 2001s and 2002s are more prone to failure but I've never seen anything definitive. KTM has a TSB out on replacing the bearing, but they simply say that the new bearing developed for the 660 Rally bikes will fit, not that the old bearing should be replaced.
There have been some failures, sometimes with disastrous consequences to the engine, but there are also thousands of these things running around without any problem. There is a good thread on KTMTalk.com in the dual-sport section. I'd read it, then decide if it's worth the trouble. I think you can make a case either way.
One idea about the frozen-up mainshaft. To tighten the clutch-hub nut, most of us have been using the technique of having the bike in gear and locking up the rear wheel somehow (e.g., a stick of wood in the spokes) to hold the mainshaft rather than trying to hold the clutch hub which requires a special tool.
Since you're probably going to do this at some point anyway, you could go ahead and just try torquing the nut to the 100 NM torque an see if this frees it up. This is a fair amount of torque which might unbind it. You might want to go ahead and put the clutch basket and clutch hub in with all the washers, bearings, etc. rather than just torqueing on the nut with it bottomed out on the mainshaft.
Just an idea. Use it your own risk.
The Lc4 engine has two weak links,
the mainshaft bearing and the camshaft bearing.
If you get a chance change both. Cost 100bucks.
btw. I swapped it on two engines and tried it both ways. Both work.
Anyone know why the mainshaft would bind? I guess I could see if the bearing wasn't on straight but with it all the way in there (maybe more) it just doesn't seem possible to get it in there crooked. Does the shaft taper? (I wouldn't think so since Happe said it works either way.)
I know this might not be much help but if you have an old fashioned bearing shop near enough for your tastes you could always ask for help - those old pros are dang good with em. Might have some more ideas for ya.