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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Drif10, Mar 9, 2005.
Good to hear
keep on rollin'
Sadly, no. I still have to rebuild the water pump (waiting parts) and there's still a lot of ice around.
With any luck, this thursday or friday I will be able to officially launch the Drif10 Riding Season.
the new Roller bearing has three parts, the bearing wit the rollers and the outer ring, the inner ring and a spacer.
You can put the bearing in the fridge, warm the case. No problemo.
I know you you feel - I have been waiting months to get my bike fixed. Long sad stoopid story, but the recent chapter is waiting over a month for KTM NA to figure out that they had a $6 battery box collecting dust in their wharehouse in Ohio. Thankfully they have finally implemented a new inventory tracking system and found it (the special order from Austria isn't speedy I guess).
This saturday I get my bike fixed so I can finally go over bumps w/out fear of bustin' open the battery housing or tearing up the electrics above the battery
You can't get good duct tape in your town?
good to hear you got it done driffy. i was startin to git worried.
You still in Bumfuck, Ontario?
Or have you moved on to Frozen Cooch, Alberta?
Good job Drif. Creative solution!!
Everything else should be a piece of cake.
no, there was NO battery box on my brand new bike... the "dealer" removed it to stuff in a bigger battery that he had in stock. it wouldnt even bolt down with the battery box out and the bolts under the battery were wearing thru the battery housing :eek1
not a duct tape situation in my book.
We've got some near gearboxes that you have to mount in that fashion.. We use all tapered toller bearings for this setup. Course if you don't have a shoulder to shim against, then you got nothing to set the endplay with..
Congrats on getting it back together Drif10
You lack experience in living with a UN supported operation. Order 'AA' batteries, they arrive 7 to 8 months later. No shit.
Duct tape is your friend. Even used it to help repair a flat on a deuce so I could get out of the field. Miracle stuff.
Yep, no experience with that limited of a supply chain. Poor bastages.
The battery literally stuck above the seat so they removed the battery box and it still stick above the mounting holes for the heat sink (that secures the battery). I guess I could have duct taped the bugger down like a mofo and armored the bottom of the battery but that didn't run thru my mind at the time. It was more like: "FIX IT!"
many thanks to markjen and others, the roller bearing cage pulls out pretty easy once you can get ahold of it with tiny vice-grips. I used a large galvanized flat washer to tap in the new (cold) bearing , just make sure to put the flat side of the(stamped) washer down. have had good luck getting parts from bob tracy's world of cycles in moon township,PA:
Great thread but am i missing something? i just read the whole thing twice and it goes from Drif10 getting ready to split the case to people saying great job!! uhhh how did he get the bearing out? am i missing something or did someone delete that post?
i can't remember if it's in this thread or not, but driffy did end up getting his bearing pulled without splitting his cases... years later he moved onto a 1200gs. ... ahh... the good old days.
strangest thread... the wailing and gnashing of teeth and then TADA!!! with not a single post on how.
So I look around for you:
one more solution with a pic:
I like a good suspense story and all but what a tease!! anyhow just wanted to let you know as its on the LC4 index thread and not sure if you want it there.. I felt dirty cheated and used after reading the entire thread and getting no answers.. but i guess im just sensitive
Thanks Meat.. you ARE the search MASTER..n stuff
Guess what guys, the crank bearing can be goddamn as well.
A KTM engine is never quiet, but it will tell you when it's unhappy. Mine started sounding unhappy when warm. Making a reciprocating-ish grinding noise. Then it started making that same noise on start-up.
First step in the diagnosis is to drain some oil, and search for particles. I had small chrome-like flakes. The cylinder on these things is nikasil, not chrome, so a bearing was the first suspect.
Step two: remove right side ignition cover. Grip hex nut (crank) with vise grips and jiggle. Mine jiggled :-(
Removing the engine is a lot easier if you remove the right-side covers and starter motor first. Really, just trust me on that.
The carb comes out through where your nuts are. Not sideways.
If you remove coolant hoses, you will make a mess, no matter what. Coolant typically spills out from both sides, and tends to gurgle and spit out some more at unexpected moments. Get the biggest bucket you can.
You can remove the banjo bolt fot the hydro clutch, but it's easier to remove the entire piston assembly. 3 M6 bolts, and it comes off. No need to bleed afterwards.
The engine is mounted to plates at the front, one long bolt with bushings on the bottom, and the swingarm. The long bolt with bushings on the bottom is the last one to go out and the first one to go in.
(BTW this is all stuff that's not mentioned in the repair manual. )
The manual fails to mention how one removes and installs the inner race of a crank bearing. I removed mine by dremeling halfway through, splitting the ring and prying it off. Installing the new one is easy: heat the ring to 150°C, drop into place. I had a 36mm steel tube ready in case it needed persuasion, didn't need it. BTW: KTM charges 55 for that roller bearing. I'm sure it can be had more cheaply elsewhere.
This bearing had 35.000 KM on it. As you can see, it was banged up on the side opposite the crank throw.
Bearings go in and out easily with the assistance of a heat gun / paint stripper. Torch works as well, but is kinda harsh.
Before mounting the left-side cover, the manual tells you to rotate the crank and listen for the automatic decompressor to click. Listen for a seriously loud, unmistakable click! Not any small click-like sound from the valve area will do. If you don't, the starter motor won't be able to crank the engine over, and you'll have to go back, remove the rocker cover, jiggle the decompressor cam, and re-mount the cover. BTW that can be done without removing water hoses.
The engine runs fine without all the clean air system hoses ;-)