8/28/14 Hawke's Bay - Englee - Cape Onion - Green Island Cove - 287 miles This would be my last full day on the island and time was running out on my quest. I had not seen a Newfoundland goggie in the slobbering flesh and I was going to be in deep doggie doo-doo if I failed to fulfill Clare's request. The motel had a postcard rack and as a contingency plan, I got one with the subject hound pictured on a bit of rocky shore (go figure ) It was cold when I started rolling and pretty much stayed that way. Electric vest and rain jacket, as an additional windbreak, were in use almost all day. North, then east to Roddickton, the Moose Capital of the World. I saw no wayward wandering Bullwinkles, but at the Green Moose Interpretive Center there was one whose wandering days were long past: They had a nice one room presentation of the history of the town. The "Moose Capital of the World" was self proclaimed in 1994, but with 6 per square km I'd say they've got a pretty strong case. A polar bear was also in residence: The center served as a nice little warm-up break and local history lesson. Well worth the stop. This was another non-moving fixture across the road from the center: From there it was down to Englee for a look see at the end of the road. I ventured far enough up the stairs to get the views of the town and inlet, but did not hike up to the top of the hill: Stopped at the post office to mail the post card and chatted with the postmistress. She said the family put 3000 km on their snowmobile this past winter. Seems like more than enough to me. On the way out of Englee I spotted yet another stationary artifact that in real life had been much more mobile: The detail on it was very good: Gassed at Roddickton coming back and the Motohio plate holder prompted a chap to ask if I had come from Columbus. Said he knew a fellow from Akron and when I told him that that's where I was born he said his friend's name was Jeff Jones. My family moved from there when I was 7, but rather than disappoint him, I said that I had met Jeffs and Joneses a plenty, but not that particular bloke. On to the very northern portion of the Northern Peninsula. Ship Cove and Cape Onion: Quaint little village: Emphasis on the little: The northernmost point of the island (as far as the roads go): So I covered 3/4's of the compass rose, hitting the east, south, and north points. The western most point got lost when I decided to allocate an extra day for the return. Another compelling reason for a return visit. Near Ha Ha Bay: There was not enough time to check out L'Anse au Meadows, but I did make it to St. Lunaire-Griquet where the Dark Tickle company store/museum/café turned out to be a major score. I had seen their products all over the island and when I stopped at the info center at the 430/436 junction, the lady had told another couple about the place. Signs for it were along the way as well. www.darktickle.com There are tacky souvenir shops that are fit for purpose if all you want is a magnet, T-shirt, or postcard; and then there are very good gift shops that have all that, plus books, better quality clothing, artwork, exhibits, and if you're lucky, good food. Check, check, check, check, check, check, check, and check. They even had patches! (I had given up hope.) Kier (Norwegian name - his grandfather's) was tending the shop and commented that he had read the book about NL history that I was checking out and said he enjoyed it. Added that to the cart. Then I found a 'Rock" t-shirt with the island outline. An interesting display on Granchain, the French captain of the Nymphe who surveyed the island in 1784, was next. Then it was time for a very good bowl of cod chowder (so-so cup of bakeapple flavored coffee). That was followed up by a chat with Kier about bikes (he's a late 90's Ninja rider with an interest in the new VFR. And he's going to the Isle of Mann next year - spectator - lucky dog!) I used the facilities to change to the turtleneck and heavy sox for the run toward St Barbe and just before heading out the door I complimented Kier on what a great stop this had been. And then inspiration struck. I said that the one thing that would make it a solid, four-star gold, all time road magic, best stop of all stops; would be if he could tell me if there was a Newfoundland dog anywhere heading west. "I have two of them, but I live about 2km that way" (motioning east) "Close enough!" (I had forgotten how close to the end of the road I was.) He took a break, saying he needed to get some propane anyway, and led me to his place. Right after I parked, his wife Tracy pulled in. And I met Nieves and Sebastien, 125 and 105 pound, 5 year old Newfoundland littermates. They were real sweethearts, if not particularly mindful of commands like 'sit' and 'stay'. Being siblings didn't stop Sebastian from trying to hump Neavis a few times (incest is best). I passed my camera to Kier and got down and slobbery with the 'wee beasties': 　 They had a white cat in residence as well. Kier and Tracy were the cat's 'staff', it was Sebastien's cat. Turned out that they lived next to the Dark Tickle and that his parents lived next door and started the company (a tickle is a small narrow straight joining to bays/coves). It's called the Dark Tickle because the hills on both side keep it in shadow mornings and evenings. His folks, Steve and Gwen were picking raspberries across the bridge, so I went and chatted with them, getting pictures of the tickle from the bridge. A parting pet pic: Such a fabulous day was only mildly spoiled by an RMCP washout driving a construction front loader down the road who felt that is was his solemn duty to enforce traffic safety by blocking my signaled pass of him as he plodded along with a broken brake light. I stifled the urge to commit gross acts of violence and zapped by when there was plenty of shoulder to use if needed. An hours run got me to the west coast and a sign for a B&B in Green Island Cove beckoned. I stopped for gas and checked the guide book. Only $60 and I'm only 30 minutes from the ferry. Called to see if they had a room and when the answer was yes, a guy who had gassed up his ATV (per Len, they call them trikes here, even if they are quads. Old three wheelers are abundant as well) said he would lead me there. He was riding with his dog, so I got a pic of my guide dog before they pulled out. I checked in and found kitchen facilities available. Restaurant options were limited, so I went back to the mini-mart and got some Chunky beef soup and potato-stix for dinner.