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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by GoMotor, Oct 30, 2019.
Posted gold museum pics on my (very neglected) ride report. Senior moments in South America.
We left our "emergency-hide-from-the-rain" motel this morning and continued on toward Medellin through deep canyons and tall mountains with breath-taking views. The problem with this was the long lines of cars stacked up behind heavily loaded slow moving trucks.
The photo below is from the Gold Museum. I have more.
If you wish to see all my tracks from Houston to my present location: Go here:
Go here: https://share.garmin.com/PaulShreiner
Click on the line with "Visit"
Click on "Map Filters" at top left
Change the Date & Time Range to "All TIME"
This should show tracks from day 1 not just the last day's tracks.
Let me know if you have troubles after a couple of tries.
Yesterday we went to the Science Museum in Medellin. It was fun, but all the exhibits were designed for grade school kids. I think the cab driver misunderstood where we wanted to go. By the way, cabs are the only way I would want to go beyond walking distance in Medellin or Bogota. The traffic is murder and you would be putting your life in someone else's hands on the bike.
In the photos above
1. Gary who has dentistry in his family history is checking and photographing a cavity.
2. In this large contraption you drop a ball bearing in at the top and watch it roll down. I told you it was not high tech.
Yup, map worked, any reason you bypassed El Salvador?
We got started a few weeks later than originally planed an in order to catch the Stahlratte by it's departure date we asked Google for the quickest route from Houston to Panama City. That route bypassed El Salvador and ran us down that nasty dirt road (mentioned above) that took us across the Guatemala/Honduras boarder at an illegal unguarded point.
Today we went to a few of the MANY motorcycle shops in Medellin for a front tube to replace the spare I used earlier and some brake fluid for Gary. I added some antifreeze to replace that lost by a small leak at a slightly loose hose connection. It was donated by Luka from the Stahlratte who had supper with us last night.
After noon we left Medellin head towards Guatape. Google routed us through a tunnel on the way out of town. It turns out that motorcycles are not allowed in that tunnel and the tunnel cops stopped us and sent us back the way we came. We had heard about motorcycles and tunnels, but didn't realize Google was sending us to a tunnel.
With the late start and the tunnel problem we stopped about 40 mo;es short of Guatape at a little hotel up a VERY steep entry entry drive. It looked a little sketchy at first, but turned out to be a nice little place with some very nice flower/tree guardens. It cost us $9 US each.
Sun. 12/22: We went to the town of Guatape to see the famous huge rock sticking out of the ground. There is a stairway with over 700 steps built into a large crack in the rock. Gary climbed up and back down in about an hour. I chatted with people I met below.
We headed south toward Steel Horse Colombia (https://steelhorsecolombia.com/) where we have reservations over Christmas. It is hard to make mileage on Colombia's highways with many large slow moving trucks and we took a hotel room in Manizales just after dark for about $16 each. The owner and his staff are all very nice people. We parked out motorcycles inside the office for safe keeping. The owner broght us coffee upstairs this evening.
Tomorrow we should check in at Steel Horse Colombia and make plans for some excursions from there.
Love the above photo
Looks like being at the Steel Horse Colombia for Christmas would be an excellent choice. Merry Christmas to you guys and have a happy New Year too!
your old friend,
Yes, the Steel Horse Finca (Farm) is a special place for overland travelers by motorcycle, bicycle or self contained travel truck. They have a book listing all the interests in the area and several horses and guides for short or all day rides. I did an all day ride and near the end we stopped at a small store on a one lane dirt road for some cokes and ice cream. A very intending old man came out and sat a rickety old wooden chair on the right side of the horse with the intention of helping me off. I intended to get of on the left as on every horse I have ever ridden, but the old man kept pulling on my right arm and startled the horse. He won the tug war and I came off side ways and crushed the chair on my way to the ground.
We ran into several people there who had been on the Stahlratte with us. Oh, and the food is supper.
My Wells Fargo ATM card had never worked anywhere in Central America and I had lost my debit card so, we were dependent on Gary's ATM card for cash and my credit card where it was accepted. Many places (small hotels and restaurants) south of the US take nothing but cash.
I was able to have a new ATM card and a debit card sent to the DHL office in Filandia where the Steel Horse is located and I knew in advance that I would be there. The ATM card still doesn't work, but the debit card does, yea.
I am pleased to have a working debit card because many places down here don't accept anything but cash. Our hotel tonight and last night and the night before that for example. Previously we were dependent on my credit card or Gary's debit card.
We stayed an extra day at the Steel Horse and left on the 28th headed to Salento to see the extremely tall palm trees in the Cocora Valley outside Salento. The traffic to the valley outside the town was terrible, but the view of those very tall trees with no branches for over 100 feet up and then a full head of [palm leaves was worth it. Our room in Salento was considerably above our normal at around $45 each.
The next morning we headed for the Tatacoa Desert area near Neiva and stopped for the night in Espinal a really cheap trucker hotel for around $9 each. No hot water, no Wi Fi, no toilet seat, no head on the shower water pipe and the roof leaked in the rain that night. The next day we rode down south on Hwy 45 to the little town of Aipe and got a surprisingly nice hotel for a low price and very friendly staff. The town was jumping with music and lights in the central square. Everyone was ridding motorcycles around and around the square all night long. In the morning I found two replacement mirrors and a tail light bulb half a block from our hotel in a little moto repair shop the size of a one car garage.
From Aipe we rode back north a few miles to a tiny little dirt road I found on Google maps the wound through the Tatacoa Desert an area with several varieties of cactus large and small. We are tonight (New Years Eve) in Villavieja and it also is jumping with music and people and motorcycles everywhere for around $22 each.
Happy New Year everyone.
Thanks for posting your report I have been following along. Must be different in Canada because I have never heard of an ATM card we just have debit cards that work in ATMs?
Before Paul's difficulties with his "cash cards" I would have considered ATM card and Debit card two names for the same thing. As it turns out that is not the case. An ATM card only works in cash/ATM machines. A debit card of course works in cash machines but also works at retailers who accept MC or Visa and for some retailers you get a cash back option at checkout. An ATM card will have no MC or Visa logo.
I get most of my cash from Wal Mart or grocery stores at checkout and that requires a debit card, not ATM.
Saw this very large beetle in the Filandia town square. Note the Popsicle stick for scale.
I have a video of a cat toying with the beetle but I get an error message when I try to attach it here.
Cat video?? Wtf?
Great RR, thanks!
Today we headed for Popayon on some very curvy mountain roads, but were turned back by a landslide blocking the entire the road. We met Mike from Germany on a BMW who was backtracking from the landslide and all went to La Plata for the night and shared a room. Tomorrow we will take an alternate route to Popayon on another curvy road.
The ride to Popayon on the dirt road #24 to get around the landslide was long curvy and ruff due to of rocks embedded in the road. It was hard to enjoy the scenery due to the rough road and the need to get to Popayon before dark.
We found a nice little hostel near the central plaza for about $9 each including our new friend Mike. W rode our motorcycles in the front door and parked them in the hall next to our room. How's that for secure parking? This has been the system in several hostels.
In the evening we walked to the central plaza for a cajero automatico (atm cash machine) and some food. The food as usual was a little bland, but the plaza was rocking with all the holiday lights still up and music blaring and families out enjoying themselves.
We decided to stay an day in Popayon to do a few things like rest, get haircuts, get some welding done on my homemade folding front foot pegs......