GoMotor Goes South

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by GoMotor, Oct 30, 2019.

  1. JimsBeemer

    JimsBeemer 2017 R1200GSA Supporter

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    San Jose, CA
    A year of riding now through Mexico, Central and South America, and all I can say is .. I have the same questions! How can a busy store that only accepts cash NOT have change ? It is a mystery to me. I am constantly strategizing how to break down larger bills.
  2. pdwestman

    pdwestman Adventurer

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    Good to see that you & Gary are still in-motion. Sometimes your GPS tracks have some gaps between way points.
  3. GoMotor

    GoMotor Been here awhile

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    The most interesting recent event occurred a couple of days ago on a mountainous dirt road east of the Huascaron National Park in Peru. It was nearing evening and huge black clouds were drifting over us. We were wanting to find any town with any place to sleep, but with no luck. The road just went on and on with no towns and the clouds got blacker and a light cold rain started to fall. We decided to set up a tent we had with us with no sleeping bags or food, but saw a few scattered mudbrick/adobe houses farther down in a valley. I saw a young man next to what appeared to be a small barn next to a small house. I stopped and asked him if there was any place near where we could sleep. Santiago pointed at the little two room mudbrick building that I thought was a barn. I have learned that buildings made in this manner are extremely durable and last for years. Inside one room had two beds covered with sheep skins and heavy wool blankets. The other room had a single bed and a TV. Santiago's sister came out from the small house of similar construction with two plates of food for us. It was better than the restaurants we had been eating in. Santiago had a disk player and put on a western shoot-em-up for us to watch. We put our bikes between the little house and the sleeping building and Santiago's father covered them with tarps to protect them from the rain.

    They had a nice garden next to the house and down in the valley behind the house they had five cows and five sheep. There were chickens also. Everything needed for a good meal.

    The rain stopped by the morning and we moved on with good memories of Santiago and his family.
    JimsBeemer, Dan Diego, knight and 4 others like this.
  4. Cal

    Cal Long timer

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    And a nice present for the family when you left?
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  5. GoMotor

    GoMotor Been here awhile

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    After visiting Chavin de Huntar we headed south on highway 3N which turned out to be rough, rocky and bumpy causing slow progress to Huanuco. One section was being worked on and was plowed up and watered down. This made it very slick and I went down on an extremely slick section. Then at 4 o'clock we came to a barricade closing the road until 6 o'clock. When the gate opened there was a mad scramble of cars all trying to get ahead of the next. It was another nightmare. When we finally arrived in Hunauco the traffic was hair raising.
    Three wheeled taxi/delivery units were flying around like flies on a rotten apple.

    Today was better with good curvy roads and good weather. We found a $20 hotel in Junin and had a good meal.
    JimsBeemer likes this.
  6. GoMotor

    GoMotor Been here awhile

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    Of course! The hard part was deciding what to leave without being rude.
  7. GoMotor

    GoMotor Been here awhile

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    Yesterday We wanted to go from Ayacucho down to Nazca to see the Nazca Lines. The secondary, but fastest route was 8 hours on secondary ,but paved roads. The navigation was a little difficult and we made a few short wrong turns, but the scenery was fantastic. We didn't quite make it to Nazca as it got late and the few small towns we went through had no place to sleep. Finally well after dark we came to Huallhua and found a hostel.

    There was no part or that route that was not curving to the right or left and the elevation went up to 14,000 feet several times.

    The front desk for the little second floor hostel we found was in the back of a clothing store below the hostel with no signs indicating where it was. The hostel has warm water (not hot), WiFi and a floor fan all for $11 each.

    Attached Files:

  8. z1rider

    z1rider Adventurer

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    Gary here. Paul’s laptop charger has failed.

    Paul has asked me to report that this is the end of his report for now but will update when he returns home.

    I will make additions from time to time from my phone.
    Dan Diego likes this.
  9. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto Long timer Supporter

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    Doing a real time report is very difficult. I have found it is easier to just enjoy the trip and work on the report once I am home.
  10. roadcapDen

    roadcapDen Ass, Grass or Gas, no free rides.

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    Say it ain't so....
  11. z1rider

    z1rider Adventurer

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    Ok, we’re 9 days since the last update. Have had some more bad luck, but we’re safe and sound otherwise.

    We were making our way to Bolivia for a short transit through to Argentina. In a moment of inattention, in a crowded market area of Juliaca my backpack was stolen. Didn’t lose my passport, but I did lose all of the documents I need to cross a border with my bike. I filed a police report for the theft and that proved to have been very worthwhile at the next adouana check when I was able to present my copy of the report.

    So we are on our way back to Lima hoping the US embassy may be able to help. That is the only recommendation I have received so far.

    Interestingly we bumped into a group of 4 riders from the Czech Republic at a restaurant, one of whom spoke pretty good English. He stated that at borders he simply states he has lost those documents and gets through. Does that sound right?

    In any case, I’m looking for suggestions.

    I did take photos of my title and registration documents but I recall that at least one border crossing wanted original copies (which i had before the theft) for inspection.

    Have any of you faced a similar situation?
  12. z1rider

    z1rider Adventurer

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    Forgot to ask, if anyone out there has any experience with shipping a bike out of Lima. I’m down to just a phone and very poor cell service so internet searches are not proving to be very fruitful.
  13. liv2day

    liv2day Life is about how you handle Plan B Supporter

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    Crap man, that sucks :pissed. I wish I had some advice or helpful input; hopefully, folks who've traveled through this neck of the woods see this can chime in.

    Good luck and feel awful about your trip taking this turn.
  14. z1rider

    z1rider Adventurer

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    Thanks for your thoughtful words. The admonition under your handle could not be more appropriate right now.
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  15. Champe

    Champe Been here awhile

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    Sorry to hear about the backpack and papers being stolen. They usually classify that as petty theft, but it is clearly not so petty to the victim. Are you quitting the trip because of it ?

    Also would be interested to know how it happened . Was the backpack left unattended ?
  16. z1rider

    z1rider Adventurer

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    The day before we had pulled over for something minor. A Peruvian motorcyclist stopped to see if we were ok. We decided to ride together and the next day he insisted on buying our lunch. The restaurant was in a very crowded bustling market area. The kind of area Paul and I would typically avoid. I took the backpack off in the restaurant. At the end of the meal I carried the backpack out to my bike and set it on the seat. Paul and the Peruvian biker were not there yet when I realized I had left a glove in the restaurant. Without thinking I fast walked back to the restaurant, 20 meters away for the glove. On my return I didn’t notice my pack was gone as I normally wear it from morning til night. We set off and we’re maybe 10 miles down the road when I realized I wasn’t wearing the pack. Rushed back to the restaurant and there was no sign of it anywhere.
  17. z1rider

    z1rider Adventurer

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    There’s actually more to the story but updates by smartphone are no fun.
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  18. Dan Diego

    Dan Diego Long timer

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    Look, I’m gonna just throw this out there...do with it what you will.

    Two gals —Becky and Andrea—left San Diego on DR650s a few years ago. Their RR is here on ADV. Midway through their ride—the same one you’re doing—they had a backpack stolen off a beach containing all of their important documents, to include passports, titles, registrations, etc.

    They had the American consulate reissue their passports. But they recreated all of their documents from good quality color xerox copies they’d made. And they were never questioned along the way. Needless to say, they finished their ride.

    It’s doable. Just providing options...

    (I PMed you some contact info.)
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  19. z1rider

    z1rider Adventurer

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    Thanks for that. I do have pics of my documents, except for Peruvian vehicle entry so I may be ok. The police report got me past an adouana check enroute to Lima, so that might get me out too.
    Dan Diego likes this.
  20. JimsBeemer

    JimsBeemer 2017 R1200GSA Supporter

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    San Jose, CA
    Have not done this, but based on our (wife and I) many border crossings in S.A., I definitely would consider it. I’ve only ever been asked for title, not registration, in S.A., and the level of scrutiny it is given is minimal - they are just looking for your name, and plate number, which I usually point out to them to save time. If it is a good color copy on good paper, I doubt it would raise any notice. FWIW.

    Good luck, I hope you persevere and years later this hiccup just becomes part of the larger story!
    Champe and Dan Diego like this.