I bounced off a tree Saturday, snapped my brake pedal off, I'm surprised it lasted this long, its been bent a few times and bent back. I ordered a new one today and spoke to Gary about my shifter, seems I will need the updated shift shaft assembly, my bike started to hit a bunch of false neutrals this weekend, down shifts from third were going past second into neutral. Gary and Jeff are going to send me one when they come in, out of stock right now. It looks like a coolant and oil drain to remove the clutch cover to access? I guess I need to search the thread and see if someone documented the replacement. BTW, loving the bike, I've been riding a lot of weekends, more than I ridden in a long time. The bike is hanging tough!
Coolant, trans oil drain, pull shift lever, remove brake pedal and right side cover noting orientation of all gears driving premix pump, WP, remove entire clutch. Slide out the shifter shaft. An hours job if you have the impact gun and proper socket for the clutch. Was the stock shift lever on it? Edit: if you back bleed the rear caliper you might be able to depress the brake pedal below the cover and hold it with a wedge, screwdriver, strap or such. I think I did that when I pulled my clutch out.
One more note, the factory locking tab washer on clutch in the few Ive seen was not bent to lock the nut.... so if not you have a new one to bend. If its bent one can usually get at least another use from it or get one from GPX to be sure.
And now also a Tusk brake pedal, not sure if I will keep it on, it seem shorter than stock, I ordered a new stock pedal from Pitster, $54.99 plus shipping. About half of what Husky/KTM are getting for a new one
Nice. If you have an order in maybe get the water pipe square O rings. 2 IIRC. My #3(?) bike had everything reusable but Andrew Gores bike (early unit) was a a mess of goop in there.
Looking like about new years I will be buying his bike... Curious if anyone has installed a steering damper on these? After rocking one on the KTM I am hooked and it will see occasional street use so that can help greatly there...
My stuff matches 2016 FC450 I had and my current 2018 KTM sxf 350. Id eyeball your parts and they might be OK even from that generation. You might need a bit or two to make it work. GPX was supposed to bring out a damper kit too, you might want to ask Gary about that.
Yes because after getting a bike that has a GPR unit on it, it is night and day... I used to hate tight sandy trails but with that damper in Colorado I was blasting down them like it was asphalt ... I remember one place in Rabbit Valley that has a long 200 yard decent climb that is nothin but a sandwash... My previous bike was scary squirrelly there... Loved it with the damper... Once I get the bike I may send a message. I am guessing Gary works for GPX in Utah?
Correct. Gary is the brains behind the GPX operation in Utah. The great thing about GPX is that they are made in small batches to his spec and the factory responds to his (and our) inputs very quickly to improve the products or create special parts we request.
Theoretically, using the GPX lowering link (1 inch) and the GPX Motard Wheel Kit (17 inch wheels), how low could a TSE seat height get? Anyone made this setup a reality? Would a different kickstand be needed?
Kickstand for sure even with just the SM wheels. Having a few laying around I chopped a kickstand down to suit my motard set. I will try to get you some numbers soon.
I compared the GPX OEM SM set with included tires to my 18" E rear with a 4.60-18 Shinko 244 on it, the axle is 1.5" lower. The tiny stock CST knob I dont have on a wheel but that should be kinda close anyway, figure at least an inch lower. That shinko is pretty beefy.
So with the GPX one inch lowering link and a set of 17 inch street wheels, the TSE will be about 2-3 inches lower than stock seat height?
