GTA Riders MegaThread

Discussion in 'Canada' started by GB, Jan 18, 2005.

  1. Meet@Trudys

    Meet@Trudys Hoser

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2019
    Oddometer:
    127
    Location:
    Peterborough, Ontario
    Those are my stomping grounds - I will be sure to start bugging you in the spring for some rides.
  2. Tim - DO THE TON

    Tim - DO THE TON Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    137
    Location:
    Toronto
    I honestly don’t know. The battery in an iPhone is bigger than 4400mah (typically 4-5000 mah in a smartphone) but I expect the voltage is lower in the phone than the 12v in the jacket.

    I was just suggesting the battery pack might be able to extend the time the jacket stays warm.

    There are plenty of battery powered heated jackets etc out there that I’m sure would give you an idea if the tech works in general.

    Or get a traditional plug in jacket and a small lithium iron motorcycle battery from Shorai.
  3. rockt

    rockt Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2003
    Oddometer:
    3,153
    Location:
    Canada
    Or get a traditional plug in jacket and a small lithium iron motorcycle battery from Shorai.

    That's a really good idea, I might look into that. There's also a Firstgear jacket that can be wired to bike or run on battery:

    https://fortnine.ca/en/firstgear-12v-battery-heated-jacket-liner-kit

    More money, of course, but it might offer the most flexibility.
  4. cambam

    cambam I can't dance, so I Ride!

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    42

    Try https://firedupx.com/

    I golf with mine on. It's far infrared technology. Optional power adapter also
  5. rockt

    rockt Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2003
    Oddometer:
    3,153
    Location:
    Canada

    Looks great, but I'm going to go with a full jacket this time. I have a heated vest but I still get cold and the jacket should get me over the hump by heating my arms and neck too.
    cambam likes this.
  6. gordjones

    gordjones RAT Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    2014.5 KLR650, 10,000 miles, daily rider been running great, started normally and ran fine for 4 blocks then cut out cold, no sputter, just quit.
    No response to the starter button, no lights, no horn.
    Pushed it home. Tried bump start on a little downhill ... nope.
    Battery checks fine, fuses check fine, gas in the tank. But still no go.
    Acts just like the main fuse is blown but it looks fine, it’s a modern blade type fuse.
    Any suggestions on where to look next ??
  7. EmmEff

    EmmEff Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,408
    Location:
    Innisfil, Ontario, Canada
    Try a continuity tester on that fuse. Sometimes it looks ok, but it's really not.
    Lornce likes this.
  8. Vikingtazz

    Vikingtazz Will ride for food.

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,771
    Location:
    Prescott Ontario, Canada
    Most likely the main fuse as you suspect.
    Could also be the relay - you'll need a multi-meter to check it, but before you do, make sure you have 12V from the battery to the main fuse, and from the main fuse to the relay.
    Don't forget to confirm the negative wire at the battery is firmly attached to ground.

    Feel free to shoot me a PM if you want help troubleshooting over the phone.
  9. Drif10

    Drif10 Accredited Jackass

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2003
    Oddometer:
    52,101
    Location:
    Gates of Moscow
    You've got the side stand safety switch bypassed? That's a very common fault on these.

    Battery terminals, at BOTH ends, would be my next guess. Ignition switch is possible, but really rare.
    Lornce and gpfan like this.
  10. gpfan

    gpfan a mari usque ad mare

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    79
    It is blatant, whatever it is. If not the fuse (that may be tested with a light bulb and two wires), it shall almost certainly be a bad connection at the battery. Red wire is broken (unattached) or corroded to buggery. Check same with black wire. Also check the other ends of the main battery wires for these two problems (at the starter solenoid). I'm in Bowmanville but make it to the east end of Toronto daily. As I type, I have about $800 worth of Fluke metres sitting around in my kitchen. Now, that could imply I collect metres, or it could imply I know what I'm doing. Since I make my living for the past 37 years troubleshooting electric motor control problems, I'm hoping it's the latter! lol

    PM me if you have questions. I'm sure I could walk you through it over the phone (I used to give advice for a Hayabusa forum).

    http://www.klr650.marknet.us/KLR_Wiring_Diag.jpg
    Lornce likes this.
  11. gordjones

    gordjones RAT Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Update ... replaced the main fuse (it was blown) ... new fully charged battery all clean connections ... no joy at all ... still acting like main fuse is blown ( it’s not, any more, I originally looked at the wrong fuse) ... no start, no lights, no horn.
    I have not bypassed either safety ... but they wouldn’t shut off the lights and the horn ?
    I'm stopping for today .... got thirsty !!
    Thank you all .. I’ll keep you updated tomorrow ...
  12. gpfan

    gpfan a mari usque ad mare

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    79
    Your voltage regulator/rectifier is fucked. Replace it with any brand from any bike. Do you have a metre?
  13. gordjones

    gordjones RAT Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
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    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    I have a basic meter ... would the regulator make the bike just quit suddenly ??
  14. gpfan

    gpfan a mari usque ad mare

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    79
    Only if your battery was weak, too. The bike should run for a short while just on battery. The other thing is the key switch. If the contacts are going to the off or lock position, that will kill everything. Did you check the battery connections? Take them right off and inspect?
  15. gordjones

    gordjones RAT Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Took the battery right out, replaced it, checked the cables at the battery end only. The old battery seemed fine.
    Will check the other ends of the cables tomorrow. And the switch
    Thanks
    gpfan likes this.
  16. Drif10

    Drif10 Accredited Jackass

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    Location:
    Gates of Moscow
    If you haven't done the side stand switch yet, just do it. It's not if it will fail, just when. As i told my buddy, who sure enough didn't do it, and it died on a ride we were on. :lol3 yeah, i laughed hard at him. :D
  17. gordjones

    gordjones RAT Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Yeah ... I’ll do them both ... but I don’t think that’s the problem today, they don’t kill lights and horn ...
  18. Vikingtazz

    Vikingtazz Will ride for food.

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    1,771
    Location:
    Prescott Ontario, Canada
    Gord - just to confirm, this is the fuse you are testing?
    [​IMG]

    Remove the battery cables and clean the contacts.
    I believe that red clip is the main relay, so if the battery, main fuse and connections are good - it could be the relay has failed, or not making contact.
    With no power anywhere, the problem is limited to these components.

    Are you familiar enough with relay wiring to test it if necessary?
  19. roadcapDen

    roadcapDen Ass, Grass or Gas, no free rides.

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
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    1,629
    Location:
    GTA, ON, CDA
    All GTA motorcycle training courses shut down for the next four weeks, was due to start this weekend...
    MTOhp.com
  20. gordjones

    gordjones RAT Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    That’s the one ... although I don’t seem to have as much room ...