I honestly don’t know. The battery in an iPhone is bigger than 4400mah (typically 4-5000 mah in a smartphone) but I expect the voltage is lower in the phone than the 12v in the jacket. I was just suggesting the battery pack might be able to extend the time the jacket stays warm. There are plenty of battery powered heated jackets etc out there that I’m sure would give you an idea if the tech works in general. Or get a traditional plug in jacket and a small lithium iron motorcycle battery from Shorai.
Or get a traditional plug in jacket and a small lithium iron motorcycle battery from Shorai. That's a really good idea, I might look into that. There's also a Firstgear jacket that can be wired to bike or run on battery: https://fortnine.ca/en/firstgear-12v-battery-heated-jacket-liner-kit More money, of course, but it might offer the most flexibility.
Try https://firedupx.com/ I golf with mine on. It's far infrared technology. Optional power adapter also
Looks great, but I'm going to go with a full jacket this time. I have a heated vest but I still get cold and the jacket should get me over the hump by heating my arms and neck too.
2014.5 KLR650, 10,000 miles, daily rider been running great, started normally and ran fine for 4 blocks then cut out cold, no sputter, just quit. No response to the starter button, no lights, no horn. Pushed it home. Tried bump start on a little downhill ... nope. Battery checks fine, fuses check fine, gas in the tank. But still no go. Acts just like the main fuse is blown but it looks fine, it’s a modern blade type fuse. Any suggestions on where to look next ??
Most likely the main fuse as you suspect. Could also be the relay - you'll need a multi-meter to check it, but before you do, make sure you have 12V from the battery to the main fuse, and from the main fuse to the relay. Don't forget to confirm the negative wire at the battery is firmly attached to ground. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you want help troubleshooting over the phone.
You've got the side stand safety switch bypassed? That's a very common fault on these. Battery terminals, at BOTH ends, would be my next guess. Ignition switch is possible, but really rare.
It is blatant, whatever it is. If not the fuse (that may be tested with a light bulb and two wires), it shall almost certainly be a bad connection at the battery. Red wire is broken (unattached) or corroded to buggery. Check same with black wire. Also check the other ends of the main battery wires for these two problems (at the starter solenoid). I'm in Bowmanville but make it to the east end of Toronto daily. As I type, I have about $800 worth of Fluke metres sitting around in my kitchen. Now, that could imply I collect metres, or it could imply I know what I'm doing. Since I make my living for the past 37 years troubleshooting electric motor control problems, I'm hoping it's the latter! lol PM me if you have questions. I'm sure I could walk you through it over the phone (I used to give advice for a Hayabusa forum). http://www.klr650.marknet.us/KLR_Wiring_Diag.jpg
Update ... replaced the main fuse (it was blown) ... new fully charged battery all clean connections ... no joy at all ... still acting like main fuse is blown ( it’s not, any more, I originally looked at the wrong fuse) ... no start, no lights, no horn. I have not bypassed either safety ... but they wouldn’t shut off the lights and the horn ? I'm stopping for today .... got thirsty !! Thank you all .. I’ll keep you updated tomorrow ...
Your voltage regulator/rectifier is fucked. Replace it with any brand from any bike. Do you have a metre?
Only if your battery was weak, too. The bike should run for a short while just on battery. The other thing is the key switch. If the contacts are going to the off or lock position, that will kill everything. Did you check the battery connections? Take them right off and inspect?
Took the battery right out, replaced it, checked the cables at the battery end only. The old battery seemed fine. Will check the other ends of the cables tomorrow. And the switch Thanks
If you haven't done the side stand switch yet, just do it. It's not if it will fail, just when. As i told my buddy, who sure enough didn't do it, and it died on a ride we were on. yeah, i laughed hard at him.
Yeah ... I’ll do them both ... but I don’t think that’s the problem today, they don’t kill lights and horn ...
Gord - just to confirm, this is the fuse you are testing? Remove the battery cables and clean the contacts. I believe that red clip is the main relay, so if the battery, main fuse and connections are good - it could be the relay has failed, or not making contact. With no power anywhere, the problem is limited to these components. Are you familiar enough with relay wiring to test it if necessary?
All GTA motorcycle training courses shut down for the next four weeks, was due to start this weekend... MTOhp.com
