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Discussion in 'KTM 1090/1190/1290' started by ladyknieval, Mar 11, 2018.
Don't forget to insert the two zinc inserts into the plastic sleeve.
Then fit the first motor stay bracket. More parts that only line up one way. The pump looks intimidating at first, but it really is surprisingly easy to deal with.
Afterward fit the larger bracket over top of the first small one.
Next is the two screws that hold the whole assembly together. Make them decently tight so as not to come loose, but no gorilla hands needed!
Now connect the electrical wires to their matching posts. Marked positive is red, negative is black. Easy peasy!
Reinstall the ground wire with the Magical Guglatech Replacement Allen Head Screw!
Next to reinstall the top cap of the unit. There is a tab that fits between the two electrical wires to keep them separated so they don't short out. That would be very bad!
It's a tight fit, so just take your time and don't force anything!
The pump motor and the flow tube also have holes they fit into in the top cap, so if you feel too much resistance, check that these are all aligned.
Remember the zip tie in the kit, initially used to spread the filler filter out within the tank? Well, this is also what its for, very important. Zip tie the top cap release tabs shut. you don't want them coming loose. Not sure why they would be more likely to come loose verses the stock setup, but I'm just following directions.....
I will continue with the install soon. Work tomorrow, blah!
Thanks for taking the time to post that. Top effort !
Have you filled the tank yet ? I'll be interested in how you find the tank filling vs stock.
I'm using a Profill tank filter and filling up is a painful process - more so with some pumps than others. Some pumps seem to have a minimum fill rate that exceeds the maximum flow through the Profill that leaves me pulsing the pump and inevitably spilling some fuel.
Good job !! your pics are great
10 years of riding on LC8 powered bikes so I know the OEM filters will get clogged sooner or later, better fix it in the garage than change filters alone in the middle of nowhere. And then the pump can fail...I've been there.
Godzilla = peace of mind
I removed my pre-filter because of this... the SAT has 30L of painful fill-up time.
I had the old style prefilter and it was a bit slow. Installed the new HDM3D last friday, will let you know how it works but it's supposed to be faster, much faster
I only refilled the tank by way of the fuel can that I drained the tank into, but yes, I believe because the filter is so large, it should be faster. At the end of the Nerb1 video about Guglatech (the first one listed in the beginning of my thread), he starts the fuel pump slowly but ends up almost full flow. We shall see. I had a ProFill filter already, and it was half the size of the Guglatech.
DR Steve, funny thing, we both have the same bikes! I also have a, heavily modified, DR650 in addition to my 1090. I put a ProFill in there, but at the end of last riding season.
As I said before, I have taken the Kato apart, a few times, and never liked the feel of the stock plastic quick connect for the fuel line, so I am replacing it with a high quality metal one. The stock one would stick at times, and was a bear to re-connect. Plus in the cold, I was afraid it may crack. This fitting isn't cheap at $45, but should have no worries.
So I just reused the stock fuel line, since it's nearly new anyways. I bought a roll of Gates 5/16" fuel line for the extra needed for the external filter. Be sure to buy FUEL INJECTION line, what I used for my carbureted bikes won't do. Got new, better clamps as well.
This is where I secured the external filter. It is a WK410 filter, cross referenced to a more common (in the US) WIX 33310. This filter size gives you the longer service intervals for replacement, which honestly, I don't know the recommended mileage. But I bought four filters for $28 on Amazon. Cheap enough I will replace at every service of the bike. Cheap insurance IMO.
Tracing the fuel line back to the injectors, I cut the line for the top of the filter, technically the filter exit. Pay mind to the arrow stamped on the filter indicating fuel flow direction.
And don't be a noob dumbass like me and forget that this line is under pressure, since the disconnect fitting holds the pressure back! I forgot and cut the line, squirting fuel all over, luckily not into my eyes! When I replace this filter, safety glasses will be worn! No sense getting your bike perfect to your specifications, spending hours of loving care, only to not be able to ride it because you went blind with petrol in your eyes!
I used the new fuel line I bought to fasten to the bottom (intake) of the filter, then ran it back towards the front of the bike and installed the female fuel disconnect fitting.
And the final touch for a bit of levity and conversation starter!
The last bit is priming all the empty fuel lines and external filter. When you turn the key, the fuel pump only runs for like three seconds and shuts back off. The other whine you hear is the throttle servo. So consequently you have to turn the key on and off like 15 times to prime the system! I felt the fuel lines and the filter, and could feel the fuel filling them. Plus the pump motor sound will lug down a little when you have reached pressure. Otherwise you can crank to your hearts content, and all you will have is an overheated starter and dead battery. This priming method will have to be used everytime you change the external filter, or anytime you release pressure on the injection line.
So this concludes my install. Put some clothes back on her and go ride! But I gotta work all week....