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Discussion in 'Hard. Core. (1090/1190/1290)' started by ladyknieval, Mar 11, 2018.
No, I didn't know that, thanks for the tip!
You’ll get over that the first time that in tank filter screws you in the middle of nowhere and your pulling the fuel pump and disassembling it to change the filter instead of pulling a couple hose clamps to change the external filter.
You're assuming you'll have the external filter in the middle of nowhere? Yeah, easier to change it but you still need to carry it. Given the long intervals between changes, kinda doubt it'll be something people carry....
When you ride in the middle of nowhere, you bring spare parts. To do any multi day remote off road riding and not bring a spare fuel filter would be, as the British say, daft.
Not when the service interval on them is 50k miles! I honestly think that's conservative, I've pulled fuel filters out of my car at 100k miles that were still working just fine.
So no, unless you're at the end of that interval, the fuel filter is probably something you're not going to bring as you won't see it as a failure point.
I run this same filter system on my 1190, and enjoy how much faster it is to fill the tank than the original Guglatech filter that I think Doug Matson and I were the first to get. I do find it hard to believe the current filler neck filter is as effective as the original, but I know the whole system is definitely better than stock with only the original filler neck filter.
I also mounted my filter on the frame on the side to make it easy to change on the trail and keep it out from under the tank where heat is trapped. Not fond of the long round trip the fuel line has to make, but it's worth it to have the ability to do an easy trail side change.
The one major difference in my installation is that I have a Camel Tank on my bike so I modified my CJ's Designs filler neck to dump the fuel from the camel tank into the filler neck filter so no fuel bypasses this first filtration step.
Can the external filter be backflushed? Otherwise maybe just pulling it out and connecting the fuel line ends together the way it was from factory and keep going in event of complete failure
That's interesting, as I plan to get a Camel Tank for a future Alaska trip as well. I was wondering what to do with what could be the weak part of the system. I thought about an inline filter because isn't the Camel gravity fed?
Nice clean job and great pics and info. Love that NOS sticker haha.
two questions -is there a spec for the external filter ? like flow or microns ?
The green paper -- could that be from the stabilized factory fuel--I see lots of new KTM with the white tanks and the fuel is super green
The Camel tank is plumbed to the vent of the main tank, so as the fuel is used in the main tank it sucks the fuel out of the Camel Tank. The camel tank has a vent, so you are essentially putting a fuel reservoir in the vent circuit of the main tank. Works beautifully, no valves to mess with, just fill it up and your full gauge sits on full longer until the camel tank runs dry. To do the mod I did you need the original CJ's fuel filler, or a copy that vents through the inside of the filler neck rather than using the factory check valve that vents vertically through the top of the tank.
actually guys it's way simpler than that :)
while prefiltering with our new HDM3D media you are working below 12 microns, original OEM filter and automotive filters for EFI are working around 10 microns, so, believe me, as @docwyte assumed, we are changing filters only as a preemptive measure, plus, it's a std automotive filter, in the worst case it can be backflushed with fresh petrol and a light mixture of injector cleaner, no worries, sure is, make sure it's a good filter, cheap ones have cheap glues and they may get affected :)
so you are both absolutely right :)
@GCecchetto, I know it seems hard to believe, but we have worked very hard and our new generation HDM3D although much faster and with fantastic water separation, is way better than the NEXT 10 microns we were using before, it's all a matter of BETA values, sorry, don't want to go "technical" on all of you, but also media saturation is way better allowing for a greater dirt retention.
btw, NEVER WASH OUR filters, they can be washed, but the dirtier they get the better they perform :)
@GCecchetto, great job with the nipple on the Camel Tank
as for the Camel Tank "fix" neck fuel filter (re-EDIT)
Cory (sorry, don't know his nick here, can anybody tag him for me please EDIT @Camel ADV GOTCHA !! :)) was such a great "mate" that he sent us parts to work on a neck filters for his great tanks, hope to be able to provide a fast and "fair" solution for a fix neck filter installation
btw, OEM paper mini filter is green as color since 2014/15, so no worries :)
If you do search for Camel Tank in the venders or this forum, you will quite easily find him.
I have the full kit (tank filter, Godzilla filter, and frame mounted fuel filter) installed on my 1290SA T and just returned from a 4000 mile trip to Mexico. I have removed the air pump smog stuff and with the space then available, mounted the fuel filter to one of the brackets. I find the in-the-tank fuel filter a mild pain to use as it does slow down fueling as it seems to make the fuel foam up more. My experience though was that Pemex fuel pumps in Mexico are easier to use than the f*^king California vapor recovery nozzles. If I lived full time in California, I'd probably remove the fuel tank filter as in my experience it does slow down the fill rate. But thankfully, I live half the year in Montana where I don't have to screw with those pumps. One problem with the guglatech parts I did run into were the provided hose clamps - they either loosened or the hose rubber compressed. Whatever happened, I had to remove the fuel tank several times to diagnose and fix my fuel leaks. This was after a couple thousand Mexico miles of potholes and thousands of topes (speed bumps for those that haven't traveled there). Another weakness of the supplied hose clamps is that there is a small area of the hose under the screw mechanism that is not clamped. I'm going to replace all those clamps with the type supplied with the metal quick release fuel connections (I'm ordering one) as sold by Beemerboneyard. Luckily, inmate Maxvert had one of those in his spare parts kit and that finally fixed the fuel leak.
Jonz, would the fuel clamps I used in the install be better? They weren't supplied by Guglatech, I bought them off Amazon, 10 for like $12 or close to that.
Looking at the last photo on page 2, I think they are much the same as those clamps supplied with the quick release. On those clamps, the metal clamping band completely covers the hose underneath screw as opposed to the regular hose clamps supplied. Our theory was that the unclamped area under the screw with the leaking area. Maxvert is a big fan of the crimp to clamp style hose clamps used on the stock hoses as there is no screw that could loosen. I've never used them and am not confident there isn't a learning curve associated with the correct amount of 'crunch' to apply.
I used the factory style crimp clamps on my install everywhere but the two clamps at the filter, which I will now look at and evaluate for replacement, to allow easy field replacement of the filter. I bought the clamps and crimping tool from powercell. They’re foolproof to use as you can’t really significantly over crimp them due to how they are made. When the two sides of the loop that you crimp touch, that’s it, tight as it gets. I’ll post a photo later.
Thanks for the info. I just ordered the clamps and crimping tool from Powercell. While browsing around, I also found the quick disconnect connection from the fuel pump electrical connection. The tab broke off the male connection and I used tape to hold it in place. Now I also have a new one of those in route as well
I also run the powercell fuel pump electrical disconnect kit. It works well with the Guglatech fuel mod. Allows you to pull the take back on the frame before disconnecting it, which makes things a lot roomier for you hands. The factory electrical connector is a bitch, especially with a first gen Blackdog skid plate.
thank you all for the clamp feedback
@jonz sorry to hear they were such a PA, we are sourcing them for the W4 specs, full INOX and thus much more resistant in the long run to any kind of aggrassion
we sourced now a different suplier to allow a better closing area, it's also very important NOT TO over tight, or they may "cut" or over press the rubber creating a pinch around the nipple
btw, all those bumps and holes, shouldn't loosen up a crew calmp, the rubber counter froce is pusching on the clamp and it is like a locking system, we have hundreds of bike with system dating back to 2012 full Rally that never had to tighten the clamps or do anything to the system, I am curios as to understan how did it happen.
glad there is anyway a simple fix also in the US that is so beloved and tested :)
this is the greatnes of this forum :)
as for the neck filler, do you have the old Expedition or the new HDM3D ? we started sales of the HD3D in July 2017, older filters where way slower and less effective than the new ones :)
Since I bought my 1290 in September 2017, I assume I have the new HDM3D. It's slower than no filter but it's an acceptable compromise for me. I don't know if Europe and how much of the USA uses the California style fuel nozzles but they are a pain in the ass even with no filter. Thankfully, I'll be back in Montana by May 1 so that issue will be minimized.