The next morning, I go for a ride with my host. There's a famous shrine that's situated at the very end of the road up the valley. This is a border area so my guide will help me get through the police checkpoint without a permit. The shrine is called Baba Ghundi Zirayat. "Zirayat" in Arabic means "to visit" but it used to mean "pilgrimage". A zirayat is therefore the site of a famous shrine. In Iran or Afghanistan you can hear "Mazar", that's the same thing. This one is dedicated to Baba Ghundi, a Sufi saint who's much revered by the local Ismaili Wakhis, but also to other muslims (Ismail being a pretty "low key" sect of Islam). My guide ride pillion so we don't have to hire a car. The road is pretty easy so that's fine. There's a gate just after the village, but that's only to keep the cattle out (or in ?), not a police checkpoint. The road then hugs a glacier (the rocky mounds you see are the gravel covering the glacier), the ride is just picture-perfect. After maybe 1h we reach the end of the valley (as far as the road is concerned). From there, a famous pass leads to the Wakhan corridor in Afghanistan and on to Tajikistan's Wakhan valley, both populated with Wakhis. It seems that locals can move across the countries more or less freely as long as it's just for trading cattle and basic goods but for foreigners or any other Pakistani for that matter, it is strictly forbidden to cross. So the Pakistani border guards have set up shop here in this small village and require a permit to get through (yes, there are trekking routes that link to another Pakistani valley). So my guide asks me to stay before the gate and he walks there to discuss the matter with his friends (he knows everybody, of course) while I wait. This isn't the saint's tomb, it's just a local's. He comes back to tell me I can come to the checkpoint but unfortunately I can't cross and visit the shrine. Damn ! But after some discussion with the officer, he finally gives me the authorization for a 5 minutes visit. It's just a role-playing game I guess, to show off his authority. No picture taking is allowed in there, but anyway it's not so impressive - unless you're a believer, I reckon. The place is really beautiful, so we pull a table and some chairs and get some tea from a shack, while my guide talks with the local families (there are a handful of families living here). The place is pretty quiet, it's not packed like the other shrines in the heavily populated crowds. There are just a few Pakistani tourists there. Imagine if the region was peaceful and allowed cross-border trekking... it would be just as packed as in Ladakh or Nepal ! Then it's time to get back, on the same road, so I'll just add a few pics. I used my pillion to get some footage of the ride. Not so interesting but hey, I had the selfing stick so I had to try it. Back at the guesthouse we spend some time with the kids, taking pictures and chatting. The owner asks me if I'd like to hear some local music. Hell yeah, why not ? so he calls some friends and after dinner the band arrives and starts to sing. They're eager to show their culture and I'm very lucky for this. I had some sound of this but the hell if I can find it. Maybe later.