Guzzi Nuovo Falcone

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by leafman60, Dec 18, 2012.

  1. banquo

    banquo Newbie

    Joined:
    May 11, 2014
    Oddometer:
    569
    Location:
    Macbeth Country, Scotland
    Better have a look at mine then, although it's been in there for ages... Much smaller diameter than yours though
  2. Contractor

    Contractor Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2015
    Oddometer:
    118
    Thanks Kater,
    My friction plates are all ~2.65mm and have been assembled in a different sequence in the past as witness marks from the inner most friction plate are also on one in the middle of the pack, hence my wondering about wear . All the Friction plates are double sided.
    Yes lots of pitting/grooving of the centre hub (#2 is pronounced) from the steel discs, also different older wear marks indicating use of a thinner first friction disc (single sided?)
    I'm not having slipping problems but trying to assess the extent of wear while it is apart.
    I have a new roller bearing and inner race on order locally (not the outer race though) and Torrington thrust bearing as well. the brass/bronze thrst plate behind the hub is in excellent condition .
    I going to try to measure the spring lengths under load to see if there is any variation
    A new teflon cable was fitted less than 1000km back.

    Is there a specific way to setup the clutch pull rod adjustment? I assume just minimum clearance on the actuating arms.

    Keeping busy
  3. Skogs04

    Skogs04 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2019
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    Berlin, Germany
    guzzi on ketzin ferry.jpg

    Out for a short ride with a couple of friends yesterday. Near the city there were tons of bikes out, but the further out we went, the less traffic there was. This is a small ferry crossing the Havel River in Ketzin, west of Berlin. We had the thing to ourselves and really enjoyed the clear cool weather and the glorious light.
  4. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,973
    This question from Pete the Diesel--

    New
    HELP!!!!!
    I have been trying to split the crankcases on my Nuovo Falcone 1972. Crank gears/clutch/flywheel/kick start/final drive gears all off and undone every fixing bolt including the one behind the oil pump. I have a good gap on the top of about 4mm and the gap tapers to about 1mm at the bottom of the engine. Try as I have for some hours, it won't separate. Any suggestions please?

    Pete the Diesel, Today at 9:16 AM Report
  5. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,973
    That's a nice picture. I like those clouds!

    *** edit *** ...and the bikes

    ***edit 2*** ... especially that Nuovo Falcone

    .
  6. Kater

    Kater shock-proofed shorttimer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    731
    Location:
    Traunviertel Austria
    Hello Pete,
    A pic will say more than Words and it would be easier to help.

    Kater
  7. MathMatt

    MathMatt n00b

    Joined:
    May 4, 2020
    Oddometer:
    2
    Location:
    Italy
    Hello boys,
    I don't know if this is the right place to ask question, otherwise, I'm sorry for the mistake..

    I'm restoring a Nuovo Civile, White and Red from '72, and I'm in trouble with the flywheel-crank bearings I think.
    By pure chance I pulled the flywheel when I was cleaning the crankcase, so I discovered a substantial end play, in other words I can move the flywheel and the crank inside and outside the crankcase for 0.5-0.6mm [0.020-0.024"] (measured with a caliber from the edge of the flywheel), it has only axial play, I can't move the flywheel left-right or up-down.
    I searched for related topics everywhere but I had found nothing about exact tollerances.
    So the question.. Anyone know if that is the normal Falcone crank play or do I have to change the bearings?
  8. Pete the Diesel

    Pete the Diesel English old fart

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    UK
    IMG_0667.JPG IMG_0666.JPG IMG_0666.JPG IMG_0665.JPG

    Attached Files:

  9. Pete the Diesel

    Pete the Diesel English old fart

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    UK
  10. Kater

    Kater shock-proofed shorttimer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    731
    Location:
    Traunviertel Austria
    Hi Pete,
    I think the same, the steel bushes are rusted. In this case I cut M8 thread trough 4 holes of the case and with the help of 8 M8 screws I can easily separate the two parts without any damage of it......

    Kater
  11. Pete the Diesel

    Pete the Diesel English old fart

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    UK
    Ahh, that sounds like a very elegant solution! A couple of questions please Kater:
    1/ Which holes do you suggest, the long or short ones, I guess short ones?
    2/ Did you tap right through (not just in one case side) then block one side with a screw and jack from the other side?
    I will apply plenty of heat at the same time to help it move.
    Great post, thanks

    Pete
  12. Kater

    Kater shock-proofed shorttimer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    731
    Location:
    Traunviertel Austria
    I searched and have found two old pics you can see the procedure. You can see the rust too.
    I cut the threads trough, screw one bolt just to the middle and with the help of the other one I separate the case. Be carefully with only little turns and avoid to twist the case. I think you should close the gap first and start with the screws where the case did not open...

    Good luck
    Kater

    65C3E446-D1BC-4912-98BE-6331BB17C4CC.jpeg F04111D3-9A62-4D85-A9F9-E91BD14C1F0A.jpeg
  13. Pete the Diesel

    Pete the Diesel English old fart

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    UK
    Perfect Kater, That makes complete sense. Agreed to close back up, to make a level jacking relationship. And so we begin, as soon as I can get a long 4.7 drill, Then thread, bolts, heat, prayers, and finally (we trust) a beer for celebration!!!

    Your guidance very much appreciated.

    Pete
  14. Kater

    Kater shock-proofed shorttimer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    731
    Location:
    Traunviertel Austria
    Pete,
    I did not drill the holes bigger as it is almost perfect for a M8 thread witch needs a 6,8 mm hole and cuted the thread directly several times without any problems.....
    Pete the Diesel likes this.
  15. Skogs04

    Skogs04 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2019
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    Berlin, Germany
    Hey Vusette, can you please tell me what kind of relay you used in your headlight (to reduce the current flowing to the switch)? Do you have a number? I need to take care of this problem!
  16. Kater

    Kater shock-proofed shorttimer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    731
    Location:
    Traunviertel Austria
  17. Mike Goldthorpe

    Mike Goldthorpe Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Oddometer:
    205
    Location:
    Auckland, NZ
  18. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,973
    Wow, $40 for a relay.

    I use the standard Bosch type relay or variant thereof similar to what Herr Kater is showing.

    I will add that I have determined from past experience that a quality relay is best. Some of the very cheap units I've used failed in a short time.

    .
  19. Skogs04

    Skogs04 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2019
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    Berlin, Germany
    Many thanks for your help! I think I'll go with Kater's suggestion, although I'm sure the matchbox is a fine unit.
  20. Skogs04

    Skogs04 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2019
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    Berlin, Germany
    Here's another question: I want to order a new switch for the lights/dimmer and horn, as mine is toast, and I'm coming up with two different part numbers (12746001 for the Militaire, and 10746050 for the Civile). All I find on the internet is the one for the Militaire, but is there really a difference? Perhaps the distance between the two screws to fasten the switch to the handlebar?