Guzzi Nuovo Falcone

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by leafman60, Dec 18, 2012.

  1. Kater

    Kater shock-proofed shorttimer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    725
    Location:
    Traunviertel Austria
    There is no difference price about 45.-€
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  2. Pete the Diesel

    Pete the Diesel English old fart

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    UK
    Hello Kater,
    Finally I have completed the thread tapping and parted the cases. Absolutely perfect and yes, the dowels were corroded.
    My sincere thanks for your guidance, much appreciated.
    I now have several jobs to complete but all straight forward.
    I do have one more information request. I have the Italian workshop manual but there are no torque settings listed for the rebuild. Either an omission or some previous owner removed the page!!!
    Does anyone have torque settings for the various engine bolts? I can estimate the minor fittings if necessary but do need:
    Cyl head stud torque
    Flwheel nut torque
    Gearbox output shaft nut torque
    Clutch nut torque
    Crank gear nut torque
    Big end cap nut torque
    Contact points shaft nut torque

    Anyone have a full listing please?
    Thanks
  3. Kater

    Kater shock-proofed shorttimer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    725
    Location:
    Traunviertel Austria
    Good Morning Pete,
    there is only the torque of the cylinder head bolts written in the manual. In this time it was unusual , nobody needed it - maybe the craftsmen had more sensibility. Simply tight :lift!


    Piston rod 35Nm
    BE52CDDC-C169-41E8-83CB-AE27F33CDACD.jpeg

    head 45Nm
    17F3D78B-5A89-43BA-A84E-F5D295B90444.jpeg
  4. Vusette

    Vusette Adventurer

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    Dec 20, 2019
    Oddometer:
    20
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    Belgium
    Hi, sorry for the late reply!
    I used a very common relay I bought in a DIY stor in my neighbourhood. Nothing fancy, any cheap relay will do the trick I think.
    Skogs04 likes this.
  5. Pete the Diesel

    Pete the Diesel English old fart

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    UK
    Thanks again Kater, hadn't spotted that. I had been looking for a page of all torque settings! Well I guess there is so much metal in that engine there is limited sensitivity, as there is on modern kit.
  6. chasbmw

    chasbmw Long timer

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    Feb 19, 2006
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    3,654
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    Bath Uk
    If you use an LED bulb, you don’t need a relay as the current draw is small
  7. Skogs04

    Skogs04 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2019
    Oddometer:
    85
    Location:
    Berlin, Germany
    Usung an LED is a good idea, but I don't know how well a unit would fit in the Falcone's headlight, as they usually have cooling fins or even a fan. I tried this with another bike and never found one that fit properly.
  8. Mike Goldthorpe

    Mike Goldthorpe Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Oddometer:
    205
    Location:
    Auckland, NZ
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  9. Dunders

    Dunders Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2017
    Oddometer:
    12
    Location:
    Isle of Man
    Snap! - well, almost!

    Paul

    Attached Files:

    • NF.jpeg
      NF.jpeg
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  10. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,963
    Hi, everyone.

    I'm doing well and trying to adhere to all the coronavirus precautions. Things are starting to open up a bit here but I am afraid that many people are trying to do too much too quickly.

    Regarding things motorcycle, my little Nuovo Falcone project has been relegated to the rear of a line of other two-wheeled projects but hopefully it will receive some much-needed tender love and affection soon.

    I have been doing some motorcycle work but not on my Nuovo Falcone. About three weeks ago, I took a ride on my old (1978) H-D that I’ve owned for almost 42 years. It ran very well but I decided to fix a few issues that have bothered me for several years.

    I had to remove the oil pump and repair a faulty check valve that allowed the engine to “sump up” with oil in the crankcase when it was allowed to sit without running for a several weeks. I also had to rebuild my brake system to repair a faulty master cylinder and add new fluid both front and rear. I also had to remove a big part of the power train to repair a worn bushing that was allowing a little bit of gearbox oil to slip past the drive chain gearbox bushing.

    All of that has taken much longer than I expected but I am almost finished. I think I’ll change the fork oil and that will hopefully complete this project.

    Next up is that I have another H-D with a new rear tire that is awaiting installation so that will probably be done soon.

    After that, my 1993 BMW R100GSPD needs its first head re-torque and valve lash adjustment. I bought the bike last year from someone who purchased it new and never rode enough miles to make the first scheduled service ! That will tie up my work table for a day or two.

    AFTER THAT, lol, I should be able to put my Nuovo Falcone on the table and resume my renovation that was started a long time ago. I have everything I need to finish the cylinder and head reassembly. After that is completed, I must completely remove both the front and the rear suspension and renew everything there.

    By the end of the summer, I HOPE to have this job finished. Well, let me say that I hope to have this done by winter, ha.

    I hope all of you are well and that things get back to normal soon!!!

    .
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  11. Skogs04

    Skogs04 Adventurer

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    Oct 26, 2019
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    Location:
    Berlin, Germany
    Geez Leafman, you do have a lot of wrenching ahead! But I trust it is a labor of love, so I suppose it could be worse.

    I'm afraid I've made the decision to sell my NF. Workwise, things are getting a little tricky due to the shutdown and I am not sure they will improve anytime soon. So, it's time to make a little more space in the garage and put some money in the bank. I have really enjoyed my short stint with the bike, and it has been good learning to shift with the right foot. The bike really does seem to be a "practical classic", as I read somewhere, and runs well. If anyone in Europe is looking for a good NF, let me know.
  12. Pete the Diesel

    Pete the Diesel English old fart

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    UK
    Hello again Kater, Well with crank out I dropped off the big end cap and my engine strip was only just in time as the big end bearing was showing signs of fatigue failure/material failure. So going to the crank grinders for recovery of the crank nose/ undersize big end grind and maybe balancing (I saw your comments on the 50 percent factor). Going to replace the main bearings while I'm at it. Do you know the bearing numbers and clearance code for the roller and ball bearings please? I have tended to use FAG in the past with good results, any other suggestions you have found good?

    Many thanks
    Pete
  13. banquo

    banquo Newbie

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    May 11, 2014
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    Well, that's a puzzle. As I have mine in bits while we're in lockdown over here, I discovered that the sprocket carrier bearings felt like a bag of gravel, so decided to replace them. However, despite my NF being 'as delivered' and the bearings never having been dismantled in my 18 years of ownership, I find that the outer bearing was 47x20x14mm single row ball, and a separate oil seal was fitted outside it. Haven't got the inner bearing out yet
  14. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Jake, I think the bearings that I replaced were not the sprocket carrier items but the others. Still, I cannot explain the difference in dimensions.

    .
  15. Kater

    Kater shock-proofed shorttimer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    725
    Location:
    Traunviertel Austria
    Good morning Pete,
    here a list with all the numbers an measurements:
    https://guzzitreff.de/cms/index.php?Ersatzteile/Lager
    I use to change all bearings exept the roller bearing on the left side of the crankshaft as this almost never worn out, it is hard to get one with a steel cage and the outer ring is critical to remove. You can control the surface easily as it is split. The ordinary bearings are not expensive so I take the sure way. All have the C = standard clearance, only the big roller bearing on the right side of the crankshaft seams to be a C3 as this type was built in in one of my engines originally. My friend Peter Schnez also uses here a 6307 C 3.

    Best Kater
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  16. Pete the Diesel

    Pete the Diesel English old fart

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    UK
    Many thanks, yet again, Kater.
    Pete
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  17. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Aug 14, 2005
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    I hate to see you leave us, Skogs. You have been a good contributor!

    .
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  18. banquo

    banquo Newbie

    Joined:
    May 11, 2014
    Oddometer:
    568
    Location:
    Macbeth Country, Scotland
    The parts list actually shows the bearing spec as RIV 1A 20 for the sprocket carrier amd RIV 01 A for the wheel.
    Cross referencing the RIV 1A 20 gives 20x47x14, which is exactly what I took out, so it looks like it's the correct bearing after all. Somehow, I'd assumed that the double-row would fit in the hub, which is a bit more brutal than the wheel. Once again, it's clear why "assume" begins with "ass"....
    However, as the Parts List shows RIV 01 A as a 17x40x12 single row bearing, that still doesn't fit in with the 3203 double-row, which is 17mm wide, and the drawing in the manual shows a single-row ball bearing....
    Still puzzled; was the design changed at some point from a single row to a double-row bearing?
    Looking at a later edition of the Parts Book, the bearing is now listed as 3203, so I guess that explains it.
    Either that, or the earlier Parts Book is a typo, but as the manual shows a single row, I guess it must have originally been fitted with one...

    These are the bearing numbers I got from Paul Friday's old site

    Bearing Numbers Friday.jpg
    But the Italian Workshop Manual shows only a single row bearing

    rear wheel section.jpg

    The early parts book also shows a single row bearing, 17 x 40 x 12, but could be a mistake I suppose - it's the same as the front wheel bearing....

    sprocket carrier.jpg

    The later Parts Book shows the 3203 double-row bearing

    later parts.jpg

    And these are the bearings I bought - many years ago...
    wheel bearing 3203.jpg
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  19. banquo

    banquo Newbie

    Joined:
    May 11, 2014
    Oddometer:
    568
    Location:
    Macbeth Country, Scotland
    Sorry to hear of your troubles Skogs; things aren't good here in Scotland either, but as I'm retired, at least I don't have to worry about work. I hope things pick up for you soon, and perhaps you will return to the fold at some point. Good luck!
    Skogs04 likes this.
  20. Kater

    Kater shock-proofed shorttimer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2015
    Oddometer:
    725
    Location:
    Traunviertel Austria
    Waiting for the new primary drive...... I hope it will be finished next week

    Best Kater
    3C420A74-6918-412F-B550-400C1D532542.jpeg