Guzzis, Mustangs, Triumphs and other Projects

Hey to all you 1000SP experts, I wonder how many were white with the black and white tank? I don't recall seeing this combination in sales brochures from 1978-1983. Weren't most either light blue, red, gold (beige?), or two-tone red-white (two combinations) ???

Thanks Rod,

Great info. I was going to address the breather issue for sure. Cant tell you what they were thinking but it involved electrical tape and lots of it... not really to my taste

I'm not the best person to answer this really as I don't pretend to know everything the factory got up to in this regard but the things I am aware of are:

The SP came in 2 colours originally, the Ice Blue and a similar soft metallic colour but an olive green version called Chartreuse.

The red/white coca cola colours came later and there was more than 1 version.

Despite what a lot of people think both the LM I and LM II came in white. Both of these are quite rare to see unlike the LM III. Were any SP's white? I don't think so and I've never seen one but I wouldn't want to put my last Lira on it. This one seems to have been repaired. In one of the pics the inside of the fairing appears to have the texture of chopped strand mat. If so it has been repaired or its a replica. Original fairing was ABS plastic.

The photo of mine above was a 2 tone red metallic. Not an OEM colour but it was like that when I got it. Its now been resprayed as all the rubbers were shot when I picked it up and the paint had been worn through on just about every panel. Its red and silver now with a LM II fairing and headlight. LM 3 lowers fit also but the front bracket is different.

I had to change it anyway when I brought the bike back from the US to Australia. Different light patterns due to riding on the other side of the road.

Just goes to show you can modify one of these to suit whilst still clearly maintaining its look as pure Guzzi.

I would lean toward mine being a repaint... but its not 100% certain. The paint flaked off easily on the fairing when removed implying a shoddy rrepair in the past. The tank seems like it could be factory. the side panels are white on the back side and don't appear to have been painted (the emissions decal is still in place with no evidence of over spray etc). Mystery indeed

Reboot are always worth checking for used spares. They're based in France and source guzzi bikes and parts throughout Europe http://www.rebootguzzispares.com


Stein dines for new parts and micro fiche http://www.stein-dinse.biz/index.php

Thanks all for the color scheme info/comments. I'm being lured by a local '79 1000SP that has an interesting history. As the story goes, its initial service was as an escort bike at the Consulate General of Italy in San Francisco. It's white with a white and black tank. Tank bag use over the years caused some wear spots revealing evidence of original paint, not a re-spray. Until Mach1 posted photos of his new acquisition I'd never seen another SP with that color combo. I admit that until recently I'd not been paying attention, so I appreciate the comments.

No work on the bike today. Work was Crazy as it was PFD day today. I did buy a set of fairing lowers off Ebay. So I guess I made the commitment to stay stock. I will assess the windshield and fairing and see what is going on there. They obviously tried to repair it with fiber glass at one point. I have had better luck with proper 3M plastic weld on the thermoplastic materials. Pay be able to save the front fender with some heat and tweak back.

Did you get the crossbar mount and the bottom brackets with the lowers?

No. Haven't seen any of those. It pairings were what I deemed a fair price and I went with it. I'll keep an eye out. I have till spring before riding season starts again. So I have time. Or I may have to fab them.

You also need the 2 small brackets that support the top of the lowers from the top of the rocker cover. These are the same on each side and the same as 3 and 4 ones.

Lower brackets come from the bell housing bolts. L and R sided.

The front 'cross over' bracket is tubular. It has a threaded hole in each end for a 6mm bolt to hold the fairings. The Lm 3 and 4 use a flat piece of bar instead of the tube. They use a bolt from underneath so not compatible with the full lowers.

Gives you some idea what to look for. If you can find some 3 or 4 skirt fairings with brackets you may find them adequate for summer riding. All the parts should be out there. So many of these have been cafe'd/butchered that they must be sitting on a shelf gathering dust next to a bike that goes nowhere.

So as far as brackets I would need 26, 32,33

I guess I'm not sure what you are referring to with the rocker mount pieces... are they listed here??

43 and 37(?) and the 34s are the little rubber nubbins that act as shock absorbers.

It sure is. No 43. Sitting quite low in the diagram but it is held by the 2 top centre rocker cover bolts.

As far as I'm aware they are the same on either side. I've never had an issue fitting them otherwise. A lot will depend on what hardware is still attached to the lowers you have coming. One they are there you will see where they attach.

You will also need 34 the rubber ends but these can be fabricated out of some rubber hose and the rubber knee pads, 38 and 39. Good if you are the right size to just jam your knees against.

All the attachments are through rubber grommets. These have a thin steel sleeve in them so the bolt can be torqued down. The OEM bolts are very wide flat slot headed 6mm bolts but can easily be replaced with (allen headed) cap screws with a big washer.

Stein Dinse have parts diagrams too but they often have a picture of the part that is linked to the part number.

Once you have the lowers I'm sure it will be obvious to you.

Oops. Nessman answered as I was typing. He's onto it. I don't think its 37 as the diagram is vague there but definitely 43.

Rod

That confirms what I was kind of thinking there. The 43 bing down low kind of threw me. Good news is that stuff is orderable if needed... more or less. Hanging them off of there is possible... they don't match the bike though... I guess maybe a paint job is in order too... maybe a budget Krylon special

This is kind of funny to me. I am well versed in automotive (ASE master tech, parts certification, worked in the industry, worked in a machine shop, built cars). I maintained my V Strom and have done work to it but when I look at this Guzzi I get kind of bound up on what I need to order for parts and what is a proper repair.

So I guess I'll be a bit needy and ask for some advise.

This weekend I plan on doing a compression check. I will do as recommended and put some oil in the cylinders first and crank by hand first (as it has been sitting).

I also have people threatening me with the dreaded chrome cylinder deal. I guess I will pull a plug and try to magnet them today... and put some new plugs in while im at it.

And I need to recoat the fuel tank so I figured this would be a good time to order up some parts.


Things I am wanting to do in phase 1:

1. Carbs: in the car world you buy a carb kit and a float and you have all you need. It looks like in the motorcycle parts are more individual. Do I order a gasket kit, a needle and a float?? or are the needle and float over kill.

2. Oil Change- Is this oil filter a Guzzi only item or is there a replacement more readily available?? I also need a pan gasket to make this happen because it is all under the pan?

3. Trans fluid- no real mystery here. Fluid specified is 90w. Is there a better option?? People seem 50/50 on synthetics. I would lean to a 75-140 because of the wider range of operating temperature but I am open to opinions.

4. Final drive fluid- also pretty straight forward other than the moly addative. is this a Guzzi thing or an auto parts or bike shop thing.

5. This order I would likely get fork seals and dust caps too. No mystery there either. Unless they have weird Italian stuff in there

I figure I have this thread going I should use this as a place to plan

Needy? I don't mind helping but I'll set down some ground rules.

If I give you some advice then I know it. If I'm not sure then I will term it that way or if there are options then again You'll know.

If I get contradicted on something then I don't care. I won't argue. I've told you once and if you choose not to believe me than I'll then sit back and watch the fun.

Now to your post:

1. Carb kit. You prpbably won't need one. Most of the stuff is pretty durable but gasket kits are available.
Floats. If you have the dark opaque ones they are normally indestructible. Newer white/clear ones can leak at the join due to poor workmanship. Seal them before you use them.
Lots of VHB stuff is no longer available. My recommendation is to get some PHF 30 or 32's. 'A' type that will clamp on. B type use the rubber inlet manifold and can be made to fit. All PHF stuff is available. CX100's (US Only) had PHF 36's but IMO they are just a bit big. Good for WFO but lose responsiveness due to low venturi velocity.
You really won't know which way to go until you get the thing fired up and see how it runs. Adjust from there.

2. There are other filters but I'd just order a UFI one from a dealer. If you have a sump spacer then it is a bit easier. The short filter fits nicely without the spacer. I'll be expecting a post about fitting it with a hose clamp so it doesn't spin off. These things drop off cars every day so you know how dangerous they are! :eek1 Still, a clamp is cheap and if it puts your mind at rest.............
I usually re-use the gasket. I 'glue' it to the sump and grease the other face for it to seperate easily. No problems as you can check all the galleries are clear on the bench. Don't forget the 4 bolts hidden underneath need to be undone. 2 towards the front and 2 to the rear. Undo them first so you know what's going on. I then usually just use a trolley jack to support the sump as I undo the outside bolts. I always grease them before re-inserting. Makes next time easier and a broken bolt up there is a PITA.

3. 80W90ish. Don't get too paranoid. These boxes are pretty robust. I've never used synthetics. I just change it every 10,000km.

4. The moly disulphide works. The operating temp of the drive is measurably less with it in there. A lot of USicans like Redline Shockproof. I dont as it is almost impossible to find here and if you can it would break the bank. I can only state that 2gr of moly or Tungsten disulphide works. The OEM was 20ml of 10% so 2 gr. Molybond is one brand or google 'Lower Friction.'

5. Fork seals are standard 35mm lipped seals. 2x7mm or 1 x 10mm. Same as the output shaft on your gearbox!!!!!! I prefer fork gaiters. They suit this era bike and stop stone chips on the chrome that will chew out the seals. Any under 35mm will fit if you use a bit of heat.

The SP came out with iron liners. Last Guzzi model to use chrome was the T3. Iron liners need different rings from chrome or nigasil so make sure you order the right ones if you ever need some. Magnet away though for peace of mind.

I saw you were getting some redkote. Easy and effective. I use phosphoric acid to get rid of the rust but there are other effective methods.

Enjoy learning your new bike.

Quote from Motoretro: "During the CC period, a two tone, Dark Blue/Light Silver Blue was offered in the same pattern. Mine was a 1984. Great bikes with the right tweaks.
Motoretro"

True. I'd forgotten about that and a friend had one but it was an SPII, not an SP1000.


Rod

Great pic, you're killin' me.

I have an SP1000 in a pile that I had given up on (lack of time, money, ambition and that vision thing) but you've got me waffling.

You truly are a wealth of knowledge. I know what you mean about your ground rules. That is a major irritation of mine. It happens a lot in auto parts. Folks will ask your opinion a lot and then tell you you're wrong. Not really fun for me.

I will get on it today. I was right there on my logic on these things. I guess I need to trust my instincts on this. All motor vehicles are related. Not any crazy major differences, just some different approaches. We'll have this beast running in no time.

Did he tell you about the four "hidden" screws on the oil pan? Many a newb has broken stuff in a pique when the pan wouldn't come off.

Four 10mm bolts on the bottom of the pan, I usually change them to allens so I only have to drag one wrench all the way down there.

Well the guy I bought the bike from said it ran really rough and he suspected it had timing issues. The guy he bought it from thought it was carb issues. I drained the last of the fuel out of the tank and it had a decent amount of rust bouncing around in the bottom of the tank. I pulled the petcocks out and the filters had some debris in there. While trying to drain the last bit out there were a couple pieces large enough to stop the flow of the last quart or so of gas.



I took the tank to the back yard and put the hose in it and ran it for a while to push out all the pieces. Tank is now drying out and will clean it out with the phosphoric acid to get rid of the rust.

I have some other chores to do today in the house and a Dodgers game to watch so I probably wont do much else. Next step is to get the carbs off and clean them out.