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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by Head2Wind, Oct 9, 2007.
That's exactly how my carb butterflies looked too. Someone here mentioned it could be cleaning deposit KTM used to clean out the gastanks before assembly. Anyone else have other ideas?
Post test ride update... The sun finally came out and I gave it a good run this morning. Eureka! The over run popping is 98% gone! The big question - is the popping gone because I restored the seal on the rear boot or because I removed the SAS? My thinking is the former, as I don't think the burbling was as bad before the servicing, but hard to tell because after I put the Leo Vince pipes on last week it was OMFG LOUD and it amplified the situation, moreover, the SAS would not have caused only the rear to be leaned way out.
I have a real concern that in the 300 or so miles put on since the service I may have damaged / singed the rear valves. I'm pretty darn sure the deposits and over run popping were the result of running way lean from an air leak in the damaged boot. My intention now is to hit the dealer / shop and ask for an at-cost extended warranty - to cover me AND them. Along with a replacement boot that I'll be installing myself, thank you very much.
As far as my tune goes, it seems spot on. My thinking is that the combination of thinner 5000' ASL air and the Leo pipes has richened it up enough to correct for the factory lean / smog happy stock condition. We'll see. It was cool and moist this morning. Real test will be when it hots up (if ever, damnit).
I really appreciate the input here. I'll ask the wife if she wants to use the rest of the silicone grease...
how much for the pre-filter/jet kit?
Better question is when you can get them BACKORDERED!
thanks to the info I got here
I am real happy with
FMF Qs / SAS, canister gone / vent hoses separated to the middle by the starter / 3mm on the floats/ gas caps tabs clipped/ facet 40171 fuel pump/inline filter
45 pilot/ 2 turns (started at 1-3/4)/ 70 IAJ/ 3rd clip/ 155-160 mains
'04 adv, sea level to 5,000 ft
needs choke to start when cold (as it should) ,
starts easy when hot
rapid off idle blip response
wheelies in second from 3,500+ rpm,
no surging at freeway speeds
great power in all rpms and speeds, no flat spots or stumbles
Holds 100+ mph well, without excess heat at the muffler tip
decels fast with no popping
couldn't ask for more .....(except maybe a sudco FCR 39 kit)
could it be improper valve clearance causing combustion leakout into the intake on valve overlap ?
That would be ironic as it just had its 1k service and valve check, where they told me everything was in spec and likely caused this problem by tearing the boot. It looks like ash to me - dry, lean and burnt.
I noticed that at the site. I also could not find any prices which is why I asked here.
Price not needed anymore as I found a kit elsewhere.
I wonder how many dealers just say "yep der good" and charge for a valve adjustment/check because it requires removing the cams, doing math and ordering a hi $ valve shim kit
not trying to start anything
just throwing it out there .........not even sure its valve related smegma on that butterfly [/tin foil hat]
Help !! I have been reading jetting posts until my eyes are bleeding......Also I am growing weary of taking my bike apart as well trying different jetting variables. Additionally my Africa Twins keep staring at me doing endless jetting work on the KTM in the shop and must figure I am nuts !! Here is my setup:
Bike is at sea level
Stock air inlet
Floats adjusted to 3mm
Remus Revolution pipes
KTM stock needles raised to the third clip, that seems to be the only thing everyone agrees upon.
So the variables I am trying to deal with is whether to use the 42 or the 45 jets
Before on the main jets I had 155/160 . I just changed them to 160/165 and it feels like there is a bit of a flat spot around 7500 rpms. But at the same time I had changed the jets from 42 to 45.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I want to get back to riding instead of doing work in my shop !!
How did it run with the 155/160's?
There seems to be a bit of a bias to running the 45 jets instead of the stock 42. Seems a lot of people feel the 42s were put in by the factory for emission purposes. I made the classic mistake of changing those at the same time I changed the main jets to 160/165. The carb had been submerged with muddy water a couple of years ago, so I think some of the orifices were plugged. Now in the course of all this jetting work I ended up with a complete disassembly and cleaning. So again too many variables. I am just looking for a pretty solid group of settings I can use, button the bike up and call it quits. I tried to run the venting inside since it makes it so much easier to pull the carbs off and on, but when I did that the idle seemed to hang for a bit before it would settle down to normal. Now they are vented outside. I just want to get back to riding.
I see your point. Yes, one change at a time is best in this situation. IIWM, I'd go back to stock, note how it's running and where it needs improvement, then do one change and note improvement or not.
In regards to your present setup, if it runs fine at all rpms and throttle opening except WFO at 7500 rpm, I'd be looking at the mains. You need to get the mains right, before continuing on to other changes.
I thought I read somewhere if the bike stumbles at WOT at high RPMs the trick is to go to a smaller main jet instead of a larger one. Is that correct ???
A lean main will miss and cutout. A lot like running out of fuel or having your fuel petcock turned off. It will run better when the engine is warmed up than it does cold.
A rich main will have a boggy feeling, fall on its face like you're dragging the brakes. You may see black smoke from the exhaust and followers may smell it. It will run better when cold and get worse as the engine warms up.
Of course, we're talkin' WFO from 7500 - redline.
As you get closer to the correct mains, the symptoms will decrease, and you will strive for the best acceleration. learn to "read" the plugs.
700' above in Wisconsin.
de-can/sas, as I just finished these tasks.
stock paper w/pre-filter.
I just acquired an h2w setup (for 05.5) from an east coast adver.
I have a selection of 148, 150 and 152 mains and simply need to confirm I'm in the ballpark here.
paper with Uni
70 IAJ (rest are stock)
3rd clip on stock needle
Runs great at all altitudes so far (will report back on Pikes Peak and Mt Evans later this month).
Looks like I'm good to go.
For some reasaon I cannot pull up the matrix on my computer, anyone else have this problem?