H4 LED by Evitek F2 has achived the same focus as H4 halogen bulb - new 2018

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by spiderman302, Mar 6, 2018.

  1. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    The high beam indicator is powered through the low beam filaments of the headlight on the 4 runner.

    When the low beams are on, the high beam indicator is shorted to ground. When the high beams are on, the 'low' side of the low beam filaments are floating (go up to 12V+) and then can power the high beam indicator. When light bulb filaments are 'off' they are very low resistance, so the 45W filaments (x2) can easily power a 1.5W (or whatever) bulb for the indcator. It provides an indication (dim or off) if a low beam filament is broken.....

    You will have to rewire the hot side of the indicator to the hot side of the high beam circuit....
    --------------------------------
    Can not please all the people all the time, If I help most I am good with that.....
    16VGTIDave likes this.
  2. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    hmmmm

    It is VERY unlikely that I will make the effort to rewire any factory Toyota wiring.
    I guess that will free up a bunch of LED bulbs for motorbikes in my stable.

    If I can find an easier solution I will post it up, otherwise consider the Evitek F2/Katana whatever as a not 100% success in my test with two different Toyota 4runners.
  3. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    Then just try putting a 200 ohm 1 watt resistor across the low beam terminals on the led. there are always other solutions to every problem....
  4. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    So, what is the nominal operating temperature of the Evitek bulbs? I've got them in sealed metal housings, and with the high beams on the housings are at 133* F, and the bulbs themselves are 109 *F. I can easily place my hand on the housing, and it's like holding a warm cup of coffee. This is with the bike stopped, using an infrared thermometer. When moving the housings are constantly cooled by the wind, and barely feel warm. But granted, it's only 50* F today.

    Thoughts?

    Charles.
  5. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    I do not know. Leds are operational to 85C (185F) which is only 52F above where you are running. I have several in sealed buckets DRZ400 and DR350s with H4 LEDs that have survived our hot summers in the Mojave desert. Your bucket is all metal so it might cool better than the plastic DR buckets. If you are really concerned you could put two small holes, one behind the fan and one at the bottom of the light to allow outside air to mix with the internal hot air. If water (rain) got into the housing the airflow and heat will dry out the housing.
  6. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Well, I don't think it's a problem then. The only time the housings heat up at all is when the bike is not moving for 15 minutes. As soon as I'm moving even slightly, the air flow cools the housings off. I'll check the temp immediately after a ride, but I'm not seeing this as being a problem. The LED operating temperature is max 185* F, and mine are running at 109* F. That's 76* F to go before it's a problem. The backside is getting to 135* F only if the bike is sitting at a stand still for 15 minutes. So, I'm thinking zero problems with this setup. I'll run it for a while and see. I'm about to go out and test my setup at night now!

    Charles.
  7. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Okay, so just got back from a quick test ride. It's 41* F outside, and I got the temp gun out immediately after parking. I was gone a good 20 minutes, with the LEDs on either low or high beam the entire time. The bulbs were 62* F. I didn't test the housings, but they were barely warm.

    But the LIGHT! Woooo boy, with the stock headlight, even with an Evitek bulb in it, I felt like I was looking through a periscope when I was riding. Adding two 3.5" auxiliary lights to my crash bar, which are wired on with relays to operate in both low and high beam, made an ASTOUNDING difference. I have my Volvo beams, that's for sure. The aux lights are mounted low, but that doesn't seem to matter. I still get a great wiiiide pattern on low beam and a penetrating and yet also wide beam on high. I can actually SEE now. I passed bunches of cars and nobody flashed me either. Three headlights are definitely better than one.

    These are the housings I'm using: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192428516197

    They're all metal housings with a pretty nice finish. The lenses are glass and the reflectors are metal. The H4 bulbs they come with are the cheapest of the cheap, so I threw them out. The housings are actually better quality than I expected, all things considered. HOWEVER, they have parking bulbs in the reflectors. Not a big deal, I just cut off the wiring and put the rubber bulb holder back in place, but the high beam might be slightly better if there was no parking bulb in there. (As it stands, it's still damn good).

    It's sad these cheapo chinese reflectors are better than the OEM reflector on my SCR950, but that's how it goes.

    Charles.
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  8. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    I like those housings, could you post some beam patterns on a wall at about 10 feet, I would also like to see the SCR950 pattern too.
    The top of the lens has narrow spaced ridges that will give a wide pattern (low beam )and the bottom with the wider spacing (hi beam) will make a narrow pattern. The F2 H4 LED only puts light to the sides of the reflector so the "parking bulb" is in the shadow so it will not affect the light pattern.
    I think your set up is the best for you but you could flip one of the lens upside down and rotate the H4 into the correct position (wire down, shield down) then the low beam light will be the narrow pattern with cut off and the high beam would add the wide pattern. This set up would give you an in between light pattern. some times stirring the mixture gives better results. But you have to decide what works best for you....
  9. Adrian V

    Adrian V Long timer

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    I was hoping to buy 2 F2 bulbs, but Amazon won't ship to Australia and Cindy isn't answering her emails..... Anyone in the USA willing to forward on a couple of bulbs?

    Cheers,

    Adrian
  10. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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  11. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

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    It's good to know that you are pleased with those lights. I bought a pair to put on a mutant I'm putting together, and was concerned that the light output would be terrible. I'll pick up some Eviteks for them then!
  12. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Pics of these suckers mounted to my bike. This setup is EXCELLENT at night.


    IMG_5369.jpg

    IMG_5370.jpg


    IMG_5371.jpg


    Charles.
  13. 88 Magnum

    88 Magnum Made it special for me

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    This may have been asked but I'll go ahead anyway. Are these Evitek's lasting? I've been watching this thread for a while. I'm sure I've missed some replies to it.
    Reasonable verification of reliability is the only thing keeping me from already getting a set. I figured I'd wait a bit. And it's been long enough I suppose.
    Thanks
  14. 16VGTIDave

    16VGTIDave Reaver made me do it...

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    1 full riding / commuting season (approx 17k km), ~40% at night with high beam on, with no indication of issues. For whatever that is worth.
    Uke and 88 Magnum like this.
  15. 88 Magnum

    88 Magnum Made it special for me

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    Thanks. Nice screen name btw :nod
  16. bpt

    bpt Adventurer

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    ChopperCharles - what bulbs did you put into your driving lights? I think it was only your headlight that you did with the Evitek F2, correct?
  17. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Nope, I put an Osram Nightbreaker in the headlight shell and both of the Evitek F2s in the driving lights. When I get around to ordering another pair of Evitek's I'll put one in the headlight, and the other will go to my new SSR Buccaneer.

    Charles.
  18. bpt

    bpt Adventurer

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    Oh, ok, got it. I was looking to do something similar but couldn't decide if I should go for regular driving/fog lights or do what you did and add some H4 bulbs to some existing housings. I'll have to do some thinking.......

    Thanks
  19. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Good luck! I really like my setup now.

    Charles.
  20. fixbroke

    fixbroke n00b

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    I tried contacting Cindy/Nick through Alibaba. Eventually I did get a reply, but it wasn't as cheap as I was expecting. For the difference, you may as well order from Amazon. Here's the response: