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H4 LED by Evitek F2 has achived the same focus as H4 halogen bulb - new 2018

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by spiderman302, Mar 6, 2018.

  1. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    Am I missing something? I don't see a price or a drop-down to select H4, or any way to purchase. I can just send a message.

    Charles.
  2. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    That is the whole sale link so price depends on quantity. Send them an email....
  3. bpt

    bpt Adventurer

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    Chopper Charles - as Spiderman said here, you'll have to contact them directly for small quantities and they'll give you price, shipping, and PayPal info. I dealt with Cindy who'd been mentioned elsewhere in the thread. She was pretty responsive, the only hiccup was her being way off with the shipping time.
  4. bpt

    bpt Adventurer

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    Also, that website isn't the easiest to navigate. Many items look to be listed multiple times and others are hard to decipher small differences. I sent a link of what I knew I wanted and had her confirm that it was actually the one I'd chosen.
  5. BPop

    BPop Architect

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    15 months into the thread, is this bulb the best LED replacement for the H4 in my '07 VStrom?

    Thanks!
    BPop
  6. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    My opinion is still a resounding YES. The sharp focus that the F2 has sets it way above the others.
    You can see farther down the road. It is something you have to experience on a very dark road.
    Just make sure that you adjust the cutoff to the correct specs to maximize distance and minimize glare.
    They are soo good that I do not use all the other aux lights that I have mounted to my bike that I had used when I ran the halogen bulbs.....
    16VGTIDave likes this.
  7. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    I actually prefer the E1. It may not be quite as bright, but it has a better beam pattern IMO. It's also easier to fit in a tight headlight bucket.

    Charles.
    ktm510 likes this.
  8. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    The E1 and F2 are optical equivalents in that the leds are mounted back to back on a single copper circuit board. This places the leds at the focus point and is what makes these LED bulbs better than those that have leds on two circuit boards mounted on a fat heat sink. The E1 is lower power but has no fan and the F2 has a fan. At 32 watts I would rather have the fan here in the hot south west.

    I took a band saw to the F2 and cut off the end so you can see how close the leds are to the focus point.


    F2_cut_halogen1.jpg
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  9. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    Here is a video showing the F2 sold by supernova as the V4. with comparisons to some other bulbs.

    looks like there is a yellow version for fog lights....



    hope this helps.....
    16VGTIDave likes this.
  10. ERD

    ERD Custom Rider

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    I have been playing around with both of these LEDs E1 and F2’s and there are some key differences.

    1. The LED on the F2 is smaller than the LED on the E1 and is closer in mimic a incandescent filament.

    2. The thickness of the arm is thinner on the F2 than the E1

    3. The F2 is brighter than the E1 - not much and not really noticeable unless you compare side by side.

    The E1 works great in some of my cars but was deficient in two of my car H4 headlights. I do not know why but the high beam and low beam patterns were not satisfactory and worse than incandescent and HID I had before. I believe it could be due to the LED size and the larger arm.

    I still recommend E1 for applications that would not support the fan or being enclosed in a small headlight housing. It works great on the regular headlights but not on the H4 where the filament sits inside a large reflective cup!

    Top/Left E1 H4
    Bottom/Right F1 H4

    IMG_5968.jpg
    IMG_5969.jpg IMG_5970.jpg
    16VGTIDave likes this.
  11. ERD

    ERD Custom Rider

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    Left beam- F2-H4 bulb
    Right beam - E1-H4 bulb

    This was low beam in an open garage during the day so it was a little hard to tell. The picture might now show it but the F2 LED on the left is brighter.

    IMG_6010.jpg

    High beam - more obvious that the F2 is brighter

    IMG_6006.jpg
    16VGTIDave likes this.
  12. ERD

    ERD Custom Rider

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    For comparison

    The left beam was the original incandescent and the right beam was the E1 LED. Both were on low beam. IMG_6002.jpg

    High beam
    IMG_6001.jpg
    16VGTIDave likes this.
  13. jasonmt

    jasonmt Long timer

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    This is how I feel about the F2's:

    20190529_161319.jpg
    16VGTIDave likes this.
  14. EP Chris

    EP Chris Been here awhile

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    Anyone running these with both high and low beams on at the same time? Worried about overheating them.
  15. 16VGTIDave

    16VGTIDave Reaver made me do it...

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    Not recommended, but for other reasons than overheating. Keeping the low beam on when switching to high beam will reduce your distance vision as compared to just using the high beam. There will be too much light close in and it will overpower the distant light.

    That said, the cooling fans are variable speed based on emitter temp. I've never heard the fans running very fast, so they may be able to deal with the increased thermal load. Maybe...
    EP Chris likes this.
  16. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    You say that, but in actual practice having both on is a wonderful thing, and I highly prefer it. I never have felt the close light overpowers the distant, and I find I see far better this way.

    That said... this only applies to LED bulbs that can actually accomplish this. Most can't, as they'll overheat.

    I've had cars with separate low and high beams, and have wired them together so low and high are on at the same time. My Jeep I've wired so the fog lights stay on when the high beams are on. For my vision, more light is always better. I've never felt that I can't see because of too much light. On the Jeep in particular, flipping on stock high beams completely eliminated my ability to see the sides of the road, and that's not good in Deer Country. The fogs help a little, but I actually had to add a wide-beam driving light on either side of the windshield, which I wired in to turn on with the high beams. This way I can actually see the sides of the road when the high beams are active.

    In my book, close, far, it doesn't matter; There cannot be too much light on the road.

    Charles.
  17. Anders-

    Anders- 690R

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    The problem with both beams on is that the lowbeam lights up the road so much stronger than the full beam and the eyes adjust to the higher brightness making one see less in the distance.
    I wouldn’t mind both beams on, but then I’d prefer to have 3x the amount of lumens for the full beam, making sure my eyes can still pick up things from far away.
    Alexander B and 16VGTIDave like this.
  18. 16VGTIDave

    16VGTIDave Reaver made me do it...

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    @ChopperCharles I fully understand what you are saying. I used to do and say the same thing! Heck, my current bike and wife's SUV both keep the low beams on with the highs. I had to add spot lights to my bike that are triggered with the high beams so that I could get the distance vision I desire. My wife won't allow any modifications to her vehicle, but I don't drive it much, so...

    The F2 bulbs are great, I have the H7 version in the high and low beams on my bike. But, the high beam wasn't able to over power the low beam. Sure, I could see road signs at a good distance, but the deer and other critters weren't visible unless they looked at me and I saw the reflections from their eyes. Thankfully there are no Moose where I am! With the spot lights, I'm happy with the distance vision. I can stop before I'd hit something up to about 120 kph (75mph). But I'd prefer to have less light up close as it is causing eye strain, and stress in general, when I'm having to force my focus to be on the less bright distance. When I have the high beams on I'm moving at speed. I don't need to see what is at the side of the road beside me, or even 10 meters in front of me. At speed it is irrelevant. I'm past it, or if it is jumping at me I've hit it, before I could react. The faster one goes, the narrower the field of vision is relevant. I'd prefer to remain focused on that which is relevant.

    I'm going to have to spend some quality time with the wiring diagram of my bike and probably add a relay or 2 to control the headlights the way I want them. High or low, not both.
  19. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    I highly agree with CC in that more light is better. With halogen bulbs the low beams are barely enough to see something at 35 mph, you need 4 times the light to see twice as far to be safe at 70 mph.
    Again the emphasis is barely see. Why are we forced to work with, the very bottom end of our cone vision?? (Our rod vision is too slow and there is nothing at the focus point.) If the high beams are weak and the low and fogs over power the high beam this is where the close in glare is a hindrance. But if the high beam is bright adding the side filling low and fog adds to the width to see the lunging critters from the side. What is needed is the right balance of brighter lighting and beam pattern. You are working out those details..... Remember the days when we could only use sealed beams.....

    If you have an H4 or H13 dual filament bulb it would be best to just add aux fog type beam to the high beam circuit. Powering both high and low would reduce the high beam to half bright and trying to increase the power to 72 watts would cause melt down......
  20. ChopperCharles

    ChopperCharles Long timer

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    So, after messing around with the f2 bulbs for a while... well don’t get me wrong, they’re great for what they are. But a $30 5 3/4” LED projector bulb off of eBay is a complete game changer. I tried three different reflectors and both the f2 and e1 bulbs on the bike. The h4 based LED bulbs are very dependent on reflector design, the projector bubs are not. I bought a new housing and the projector and now I can see. I can see really, really well.

    In fact, I can see better on the bike with the projector bulb than I can on the bike with one e1 and two f2 bulbs in a triangle configuration. The f2 and e1 reflect off of street signs quite blindingly with the high beams on, and somehow the projector doesn’t reflect as badly. The projector throws light further and fills in far better.

    I’m stoked that this works. I am going to retrofit all my bikes with these projector bulbs.

    Charles.
    Anders- likes this.