H4 LED by Evitek F2 has achived the same focus as H4 halogen bulb - new 2018

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by spiderman302, Mar 6, 2018.

  1. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    There is no experience with the M1 since it is too new. I have the F2 in several vehicles and they are holding up just fine. Carefully look at and take a photo of the beam pattern on a wall with your original halogen bulb then when you install the new bulb do the same. You will see the difference between these and the junk that you may have tried before. My M1's should arrive any day now.....

    What sets these bulbs apart from the others is that the led emitters are the same shape and same location as the halogen filament. So the beam pattern should be the same. Previous led bulbs the leds were NOT at the focus point so they created poor beam patterns. If you want your lights to work the way they were designed. The Evitek F2 and M1 will do that for you....

    This is the leading edge of LED bulb development.... you are the first to know about it...
    #61
  2. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    I will repeat this again. I am a rider who was looking for a led bulb that worked correctly. There was nothing but junk at that time and everyone was complaining about it. I am an engineer and I knew what it would take to fix this. I found a bulb that could be made to work. I fixed it and contacted the OEM and told them what to do. They listened and over time we are now here. I now have the bulb I want and you do too. No I did not make any money off of this, but the world will be a better place..... enjoy.
    #62
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  3. JTerryM

    JTerryM -/\~

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    Thanks, spiderman302. I'm currently doing back and forth with Evitek via Alibaba on H7 (listed) and H1 (not listed) versions of the M1 bulbs. I've gotten word that the H1s are available and am just down to finding out how to put them in the cart and pay.
    #63
  4. Dessert Storm

    Dessert Storm Dances With Drunks

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    Thanks for all your work on this highly informative thread spiderman302 :clap
    #64
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  5. Brun

    Brun Been here awhile

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    Spidey, your continued work is appreciated.

    I recently installed the F2 H4 bulb in a Bosch 7" semi-sealed headlight (aftermarket) on my BMW. The adjustability is a big improvement -- I was able to focus the low beam by moving the bulb to the rear around 1.2mm** (I printed a range of spacers with 0.2mm thickness increments). Then I twisted it to suit riding in Australia (a slight kick-up to the left). First night-time ride was a revelation - the low beam cutoff is really crisp so can be set further down the road without inconveniencing other drivers. And high beam penetrates much further than any other LEDs I have tried. The only problem is the size of the driver box, though I did manage to get it shoved safely into the spaghetti bowl. I'm keen to try the M1 now to alleviate that problem.

    ** Without the rearward adjustment there was a significant hole in the centre of the beam pattern on low beam. I guess the manufacturer has allowed for a range of reflector types, so be prepared to fiddle with focus. I might drill and tap the outer sleeve for a set-screw to fix it in position but so far (700kms) it hasn't shifted at all.
    #65
  6. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    Thanks, Brun for the negative feedback. A control loop needs negative feed back in order to work effectively...... your information is constructive. I also just got some feed back from another source.

    The F2 works just fine in the two bikes that I have and in three other head lights that I have. But they have linear spread lens that creates a wide beam that the hole gets over lapped. There is one that it does not work in and behaves just like yours. I considered it an outlier since even a halogen bulb has a dark spot in the middle. Apparently, there are some stamped steel reflectors that relaxed and shifted the focal point....

    There is a fix! Maybe.... (can not fix bad parabola)
    your moving the bulb back 50 mils fixes the low beam dark hole but it also moves the high beam out of the sweet spot.
    If you look at your F2 There is a gap between the low and high leds. A gap that is in the H4 specification..... [which was necessary for mechanical fit and clearances of the filaments]
    Now, The led bulbs are not fully constrained to be exactly like the halogen bulb... so we could have them slide the low beam led back and leave the hi beam led where it needs to be. The led emitters can be longer than the halogen filaments, why? because the filaments are three dimensional and the leds are only two dimensional....

    I have given them this feed back along with some other nit picks.

    I just got informed that they now have a new fanless version called the E1 that replaces the S1. They sent me a picture and guess what, there is no gap between the leds!.....

    We will have to see which one they moved......

    E1.jpg
    #66
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  7. Tripped1

    Tripped1 Smoove, Smoove like velvet.

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    To confirm, are these CANbus compiant? I am looking to put them on a bike that will tell you if a bulb is out, by bulb.
    #67
  8. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    I am not a canbus expert since all my vehicles are high mileage antiques........
    but incandescent bulbs can only be detected if the expected current is not correct. I do not know where the threshold is set and it could different per manufacture.
    The usual solution is to add resistors (or better add extra lights or other farkels) until your system becomes happy.
    Half of the benefit of going to LED's is to lower the power draw on the system so that you can add the other farkels.
    So resistors are a waste unless you really have no other needs....
    not that many bulbs on my bike and I routinely check them by inspection anyway, however I have added extra tail and brake lights.
    I would suggest that you add a set of fog lights (always on) to the headlight circuit(s) to increase the load....
    Or wire them to your grip heaters, use a double throw switch to tun off your grip heaters so that in the "off" mode the power goes to the resistors somewhere else... lots of options... to keep Canbus happy.....
    #68
  9. Tripped1

    Tripped1 Smoove, Smoove like velvet.

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    This bike shares the output of an 1190 Adventure, so power draw isn't my issue, the absolutely horrible main light is. Like on a dark road I have to slow down to 40km/h or so to have any idea where I am going.
    I may have a resistor pack that will work (part of a cyclops kit) that has pretty terrible focus.
    My grips are run off of the dashboard with the auxiliary switch that controls the rest of the electronic on the bike.

    ....and I already have fogs waiting to be installed.

    The other bike has 4 H11s, and no CANbus, strong considering a retrofit as the high beam pair are, well old and the HID on the main beams can be problematic with the extra ballasts and relays. If you have ever taken apart a Ducati Multistrada there is NO spare space under the front of the bike.
    #69
  10. appliance57

    appliance57 Long timer

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    Just throw them in and see if a warning comes up. No problem with an LED on my canbus ducati. Also with the cyclops - a 20 gauge shim at the top of the H4 connector drops the light into focus. Got this tip from another spiderman thread - cheers.
    #70
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  11. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    The best part is that I had thought that the DOT released H4 specification was a just QA spec and not a real manufacturing spec. I have to compliment the engineer who wrote it. It is really a decoy spec that hid some critical information. In retrospect I understand why everyone thinks it is so complicated and why the overseas fabricators did not get it right! There is even a clever engineering joke in the bottom of the spec table. I bet no one knew this for 25 years!!!! It is a classic example of how an OEM can hide their IP in plain sight.
    #71
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  12. Alexander B

    Alexander B Long timer

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    Is the document available for reading somewhere? I for one appreciate a nerdy joke hidden in plain sight...
    #72
  13. spuh

    spuh Been here awhile

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    I'll second that motion. Engineering, archaeology, subterfuge, cryptology and that rare drive to disguise brilliance as the expected mediocrity, all wrapped up in less than one paragraph in a tedious government issue cure for insomnia? I want to read this novella!
    #73
  14. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    So here is part of the document in question. This is a spec that is suppose to have usable values. in the table there are a bunch of zero values, so the only thing that is useful is the window values but they are not useful.......
    hint: There is an old expression about minding your p's and q's. Solve the algebra.....

    h4Spec.jpg

    the drawing is an isometric view, which makes some of the dimensions referenced to points in space.
    If it were drawn as a flat view it would be much simpler. Let me explain.
    It looks like the two filaments are both skewed but as it turns out the low beam is centered and "h" is really zero.
    then "g" the offset of the high beam is -12 mills. It can not be zero nor could it be positive. but the "g" tolerance is +/-...

    Now I am a bit ahead, What is missing is the rotation spec. It is only alluded to by the isometric view.
    So I have measured the rotation to be 10 degrees. What is rotated? it is the wire frame.
    grab a H4 bulb and look at the back of it with the top tab straight up the glass bulb away from you.
    look at the top tab and tilt up the bulb. you should see that the shield pan is not perpendicular to the top tab.
    rotate the bulb 10 degrees CW to line up the wire frame. Now the shield pan is perpendicular to the frame and the filaments are in line with the frame. That is there is no skew..... look at the filaments relative to the wire frame... now you know.

    There are other drawing mistakes. Now, if I am wrong please let me know.......
    #74
  15. Tripped1

    Tripped1 Smoove, Smoove like velvet.

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    Please explain how that works when most can barely get the light into the housing at all.

    Just a matter of mechanics as that is one of the projects on my plate this week.
    #75
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  16. appliance57

    appliance57 Long timer

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    20 gauge is a very thin wire. Just clip an inch or so and put it across the top of the H4 connector before you twist it in place.
    #76
  17. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    The wire shim was placed across the bottom two slots of the 3800 H4 led bulb to tilt the bulb down. This was because the low beam LED emitters were mounted in the wrong location on the 3800 bulb. they were mounted above the center line as depicted in the DOT H4 specification. Which is another DOT document error. This is not necessary for the F2 bulb....
    #77
  18. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    spoiler alert.....

    So if you look at the bottom of the table in post #74 you will see the dimension of "p" is " depends on the shape of the shield" so you look at "q" it has an algebraic equation. Hmmm. Most will gloss over this and think it is complicated.... but if you reduce the equation it becomes q = p. "p" has no dimension. So they are both meaningless. The engineer knew that those who were approving the document would not really read it and if they did they would not understand it.... Well played!!
    #78
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  19. alternety

    alternety n00b

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    CANBUS is a potential issue. Based on reports here, I ordered a set of LED lights from evitekhid. They are the M1s in H4 and they arrived today. I will try them out when my wife leaves her car here for a while. I am putting them in a CRV. But opening the documentation says I may need to get a CANBUS adapter. Anyone else actually get these lights and put them in a CANBUS vehicle?
    #79
  20. alternety

    alternety n00b

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    I got them installed. They are very nice. Very white. Good beam pattern (high and low) on the road. I don't have a particularly good wall to see the actual pattern, but it looks good. When I can find one I will try some pictures.
    #80