Harbor Freight Trailer

Discussion in 'Camping Toys' started by Thinc2, Mar 5, 2006.

  1. rc51kid

    rc51kid Been here awhile

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    Looking through this thread but there is a lot of information. I am thinking about using one of the 4x8 trailers to haul a XT225 (280lb) and a DRZ400S (320lb) at the same time. I will be moving it cross country from time to time. Do you think it is worth spending more on the one with the 1720lb weight limit?

    Also I find a few screen shots of coupons on these and I can print them. But on their websight they still show regular price. Any ideas
  2. Cycle61

    Cycle61 making it up as I go Supporter

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    Get the higher rated one, it will come with a stronger axle, larger wheels, and better bearings. Repack the bearings with real grease, don't use the HF bolts, and you'll be good to go for many inexpensive miles.
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  3. Motomantra

    Motomantra Registered Lurker

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    AGAIN, clean & re-pack the bearings. I found paint & rust flakes inside the hubs.
  4. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    The higher rated one will have the mentioned advantages, BUT, it will also ride much harder. Some remove a leaf or two to soften up the ride if they do not need the capacity.
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  5. LewisNClark

    LewisNClark Long timer Supporter

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    Got the smaller 4x8, 1200 lb trailer. After a 200 mile hauling trip with a 350 lb bike in the rain I’ll be looking for wider tires. Stock tires were squirrelly in the rain.
  6. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    What size tires do you have? Wider tires will make rain instability worse, not better.
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  7. LewisNClark

    LewisNClark Long timer Supporter

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    Good to know...thought the opposite.

    Tire Size is: 4-80-12 4 Lug nuts.

    Any suggestions from those in the know appreciated. Have a 1,500 mile trip planned.
  8. kenstone

    kenstone worn out

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    I'm not sure what you mean by "squirrely" :dunno
    I put 12" radial car tires on my trailer, deeper tread/run at lower pressure/no UV cracking/last longer/cheaper than trailer tires.
    The size I bought are wider than stock, so I had to flare/widen the fenders but narrower tires are available.
    Just returned from a cross country tow (5200 miles) and had no problems with the trailer or tires.
    :lol3
    Edit: here's a post with pics of my trailer, one pic with stock tires/another pics with radial car tires and flared fenders:
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/harbor-freight-trailer.123255/page-50#post-37864899
  9. LewisNClark

    LewisNClark Long timer Supporter

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    Squirrelly = could feel the trailer moving sideways in deep (1-2 inches of freeway water.) sort of like hydroplaning, pushing my Honda Element sideways. But as I think about it, right after this trip I had new struts installed all around....and that will probably help trailer handling. Don't know...have not hauled trailer & bike in a heavy rain since new struts were installed.

    Trailer trip is from Atlanta to Idaho.

    Squirrelly: A southern expression to describe of a vehicle that is back and forth not knowing which way to go. :jack
    kenstone likes this.
  10. lilbcollins

    lilbcollins Been here awhile

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    Thinking about picking one of these up. Has anybody owned both the 1200 and 1720lb versions? I don't see ever hauling more than 1000lbs locally for short runs, but am not afraid to spend a little more on the bigger trailer if its actually better than just hubs and tire upgrades.

    Is the frame beefier on the HD version? For longer hauls I'll use my brothers Aluma trailer.
  11. kenstone

    kenstone worn out

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    The differences are mostly tires/hubs, frame design mostly the same with some small variations.
    12x4.80 4 lug verses 12x5.30 5 lug
    jmo
    :-)
    edit: lighter rated may have a 17/8 "trailer Fitting" and the heavier has 2" Ball, not a big deal for me though as I change out the 17/8 to 2".
    lilbcollins and dad2bike like this.
  12. PineyMountainRacing

    PineyMountainRacing Oops....

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    just got my new sales flyer

    B7E9A08A-1DCA-4EFB-93D6-D5632554FD37.jpeg

    I’ve been meaning to put together a small dedicated generator trailer, I think I’ll pick this HF model up on the way home. I have several bigger trailers, use this for the generator during hurricane season, pull it behind the lawn mower for the week to week yard cleanup (5 acres of oak trees). Don’t even think I’ll do lights or register it, would not have a reason to put it on the road.
    Night_Wolf likes this.
  13. Wreckchecker

    Wreckchecker Ungeneer to broked stuff. Supporter

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    Yup. I have a little 48" x 48" that is just used for holding the cap from my pickup when it is not on the truck. Bought it cheap used and it works great for this.
    [​IMG]
  14. PineyMountainRacing

    PineyMountainRacing Oops....

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    I have a 4x8 (Tractor Supply model) I bought in the early 90’s, keep it at my place in NC. now. Use it to carry the dirt bikes or make a run to Lowes. Took the topper off my 86 F150 (that I also keep up there) to have a little paint work done . Clamped the topper onto the 4x8 and pulled it down to the barn until I decide if it’s going back on.

    Waiting for HF to open and I’ll run down and pick up another :beer
  15. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Wreckchecker likes this.
  16. PineyMountainRacing

    PineyMountainRacing Oops....

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    local store hasn’t had any for months. 80 miles later I’m in bidness :lol3

    7C5E4371-93F2-4303-915C-A90EA332616E.jpeg
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  17. rc51kid

    rc51kid Been here awhile

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    I just picked up a HF trailer used of Craigslist. Looks to be in good condition for $250. I was told it was the 1700lb trailer. Unfortunately when I looked it over it looks like it is the 1100lb with the 8" wheels. I will be pulling a xt225 and a drz400 on it. A total of around 600lb so it should still be fine. But do you guys think it is worth $100 to upgrade to the 12" wheels?

    Also any suggestions and cheap but appropriate wheel chock and tie down points to build it out with? I dont think I need to go over board with a front wheel holder since it will only be 300lb bikes compared to 500lb street bikes. But I don't want something so cheap it fails.

    Also I was thinking of using eye bolts around the perimeter to hold down the plywood the go through the frame and plywood. Then also use them as the tie down points for the bikes. Any idea of how thick of eye bolts I should use? Are 1/4 or 3/8 ok or do I need to go to 1/2" eye bolts?

    I could also just use simple bolts to secure the plywood down to the frame. Then skip the eye bolts and hook the the down straps straight to the edge of the frame under the plywood. One less part to fail. Maybe I would need to drill a hole for the end of the tie down strap?

    I got home late with it last night so I have not had a lot of time to look at how it is built. Just trying to come up with a plan for the build. I want to keep it simple but effective. I will be using it locally but also pulling the bikes 2000 miles a few times a year.

    Ps. Obviously I will be repacking bearings soon
  18. LewisNClark

    LewisNClark Long timer Supporter

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    It would be near impossible to make a chock better than the price of Harbor Freight version. Mine is 20 yrs old and works like day one. I found it easier to load the bike to better decide where to install tie down bolts. Putting them in the plywood floor made sense to me until I started hauling plywood, dirt, etc and the eyebolts in the floor were always in the way. There are Fold down hooks that fold out of the way, that are great but pricy, but are out of the way, and worth it.
  19. lkraus

    lkraus Long timer

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    For your anticipated load, 1100 lb capacity is OK for now, but I'd look at upgraded tire and wheel options when replacement time comes. The cost difference is small or non-existent, and as far as I can tell they determine the load capacity. Check the DOT date stamp on the tires, they may be older than you think. Definitely repack the wheel bearings, those 8" wheels will be spinning hard on a 2000 mile trip.

    My plywood deck is secured with countersunk stove bolts - I sometimes carry lumber and sheets of plywood and wanted a flat deck. Tiedown hooks directly on the frame rail can slide, not good. I've hooked to the stake pockets for some loads. For carrying motorcycles I wanted something more secure, so I replaced several of the bolts holding the stake pockets with eye bolts.

    I use a HF 97841 wheel chock that I also use with my HF lift table. The frame of the chock is long enough to span the front two frame members of the trailer, so the front wheel of the bike has better support.
  20. PineyMountainRacing

    PineyMountainRacing Oops....

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    $280 for the trailer (incl tax)
    $100 for the extruded metal, paint and jack stand
    angle, hardware and lumber I had “in stock”

    0933952B-C5F6-4AB4-BA64-D5AC9B2C6B87.jpeg E2545AD6-BDDB-48CF-9F72-E1547CFD8B46.jpeg

    I don’t plan to carry bikes on it, have different trailers for that. Wanted a small trailer I can load the generator on if a storm is headed my way, so it can be maneuvered easily around the property. I’ll build a PVC frame and put a tarp over the trailer (and generator) to keep the rain and sun off of it while in use. Keeping fingers crossed that won’t be necessary but need to be ready. After hurricane season it will be a nice sized trailer to pull around the 5 acres with the garden tractor or quad and pick up sticks and branches.

    I built basically the same trailer 20 yrs ago, came from Tractor Supply (they no longer sell the “kits”) and I keep it up north. I have to say, the quality is much, much better now. The material is heavier, hardware is higher quality, better tires, everything lines up for assembly and the paint is 100% better. My hubs had ample grease. Directions still suck but who reads directions. The old trailer I ended up welding everything together and removing the bolts, then repainting. It was a lot harder getting it squared up. The new one you would have to try to screw it up. A lot of trailer for 400 bucks, I give the 1200# Haulmaster Utility Trailer Kit a 5* review :ricky
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