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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by black knight, Nov 1, 2020.
I admire your design and fabrication skills. Well done.
Modifying the frame Gas Tank Mount to give room to do work, maintenance , repairs, starter removal, engine install. Belmetric sell Hex & Round long coupler Nuts. a 40mm cut down to 35/36 should fit snugly , get welded in place after the 2 holes are drilled. The bracket you just cut off will be reused and 2 more m6 holes drilled. this bracket then its bent about 5/8" - - - 3/4" down from the top, as the whole bracket then gets a slight tabs bent to fit right back over top of the now 2 ears w/ the welded coupler. This is your new shortened gas tank mount, Completely removable for ease, ALL the while still used as a support bracket.
more pics later, i'm waiting for my hex m6x40 coupler nut to arrive, then gets welded in situ.
Done the Easy Way.
Done the Easy Way.
ADDING more anchor points to my 1967 R80SS/2C frame. These will most likely be anchors for the Craven Racks I have yet to fabricate. I have designed them on paper.
The BiG issue I have w/ /2 frames is points of anchor . So I have this novel idea that I'm using Round & some Hex Metric Coupler Nuts. Belmetric sells what I'm using. They come in different lengths & ..... IF
I need ones longer, I weld 2 together. Some 16 Plus should get the job done.
Will purists /2 owners like what I'm doing....
I doubt the purists will care, you're not following any trends so it remains quite interesting.
Will you weld on a cover plate to hide that inserted nut? I think it would really finish off that bracket nicely.
Looks pretty useful to me! Some of the after market accessories used round clamps to go around the shock towers.
Gas Tank Frame Tab Modification .
· 1psg6omod ·
This is what I did to get more working space for installing / removing an engine, periodic maintenance work for starter motors, and because I will have to fabricate a bracket for the E. Hoske RS~2 gas tank, I made this MOD.
Some have simply cut and welded their gas tank frame bracket back on, just 3/4" or so shorter. I decided that having it removable was my option. More work, . . . . yes. Better options and outcome for me ..... yes.
The tank is fixed @ the front m8 bolt, the rear support is Not going anywhere, No side to side. No front to back. The 2 tabs have a welded-in m6x37mm hex coupler nut, I may even safety wire those 2 m6's , cause I like SW. The newly cut & shortened piece has an m8 nut welded to it. The future under tank support bolts will have a dense rubber strap to cushion tank. ALL bolts will be 242 Loctited.
It Ain't going nowhere ...
I'm amazed that previous owners have never corrected the rear fender 'flip-up' left strut. It was almost a 1/4" longer. Lop-sided - gap - ugly mess
measure, inspect, use a pipe tubing cutter, mark it, grind, sand, make an inner tube, marker, grind more, sand , fit, marker again, sand, fit, weld. File, Sand & Polish.
The correct flip up nut has a shoulder on it that locks the arm in place.
correct ~ is a relative word here .. . . . ... . ... . . .
a 'shouldered' nut is called a Flange Nut. I am so far away from being correct on my conversion, not caring but building my ride as needed. You'll see a LOT of different things done on this bike that you've not seen before, @ least I haven't. It's a fun build so far and after the engine arrives from a build, faster progress moves forward. Stay tuned ...
' This Conversion, has no rules ... ... ... except my rules '
I hear you, my builds usually are from whatever I have either on hand, have been given or what I make. I wasn't trying to make a rule for you, I was just stating that those "flange" nuts are good at holding the flap in place.
appreciate the thought,,,,,,
fixed @ Vern's shop.
stiffer 'stringer' on the Earles swing arm. 3/16" x 3/8"