Heated Grip Repair R1200GS 2007

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Canada Mike, Jun 9, 2013.

  1. Canada Mike

    Canada Mike Been here awhile

    Oct 16, 2009
    Langley BC
    Hey all though I would share the repair for heated grips on my 2007 GS. I believe the culprit that may have caused the grips to stop working might have been the throttle lock. I use the Wunderlich throttle lock and think the compression of the throttle tube may have caused the stainless heater wire to break. My local electronics shop ( shout out to SMI Electronics) were very helpful in some suggestions. As I don't have the resources to solder stainless wire the only alternative was a mechanical splice. I used small ferrules to slide the wires in from each side and then crimp the splice.

    First pictures is a small test leed that I made a while back for testing purposes. In this case it was not really needed as the problem was obvious once found. The idea behind the test leed was to isolate the grip from the bike circuit and allow you to meter each wrap of wire on the grip for continuity or open circuit.

    In order to make the repair of the heater wire when the break is at the end of the handlebar you need to remove the handguard, the back of the controls, and the throttle cable cover shown in the picture above. It felt safer to me to disconnect the grip from the bike and hook up the test leed in order to check for continuity once the splice was complete before reinstalling the grip.

    Below the picture is showing how the wire is wrapped around the gip and where is comes out of the throttle cable assembly.

    As I removed the grip from the throttle tube I noticed the wire broken at the end of the grip.

    In the picture below you can see the stainless wire wraps around a hook like guide in the end of the grip then travels back down the grip to complete the circuit and the loop. What needs to happen now is to crimp the two wires together. I stripped a small piece of copper wire and twisted about ten of the strands together to use as a splice wire. This will give the length required to let you crimp the two ends. You can also pre-bend the ferrule to form better to the grip with the same curve.


    The reason for the "S" made in the copper wire is to allow enough slack in order to get a pair of needle nose pliers under it to squeeze and crimp the wire.
    Note the small temporary piece of black tape to keep the wires from unravelling off the tube wile your working with it. I think the only thing I would have done differently now a day later after looking at the pictures is to solder the stranded copper wire to ensure the "S" stays like it is and keeps the wire tight. I used a wrap of electrical tape to hold the "S" and the last wrap in place to ensure it doesn't slide left as the grip is installed. A little hairspray in the grip and it slides right on...Let it dry overnight and it works like a charm.:D