Heated Grips

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by Ignore Amos, Aug 17, 2005.

  1. Yorky

    Yorky Splash!!

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    At least that's what it used to be called. I think it may be called Permabond these days. It comes as a 2 pack sachet and is best applied just as it begins to set. You only need a small amount applied to the bar / throttle tube as it's very effective.

    I'd strongly recommend wiring through a switched suppy so as not to inadvertently drain your battery, and use a relay if possible.
    #61
  2. Mark0474

    Mark0474 Adventurist at heart

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    Thanks guys as always. I think I will wire it throught the side light as discussed earlier in the thread. Probably a good way to go. I already have a few bits wired to the switched side of things, dont want to oveload it all.

    Autocom is wired to ACC2
    Sat Nav is wired to ACC2
    12v socket is wired to ACC1

    What do you think if I wire in the Sat nav and socket to ACC1 and then the grips and Autocom to Acc2 (switched). I would think the system to could take it??? Autocom wont draw much at all I am sure. Any opinions always welcome.
    #62
  3. Yorky

    Yorky Splash!!

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    Use a relay...............:evil
    #63
  4. Mark0474

    Mark0474 Adventurist at heart

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    Thanks yorky,

    Would not know where to start with relays. I am practical and can figure most stuff out, electrics and me hmmm!

    Any info on relays always welcome. I am a visual kinda person.

    Mark
    #64
  5. Yorky

    Yorky Splash!!

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    This thread gives some good explanations

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199251

    The diagram on the first page is very good. Substitute the switch shown for the bike ignition switch and the wires to the coil are the one's marked 'Acc' (1 or 2 - can't remember) on the bike.

    Put simply; The relay is made up of a coil which, when energised, closes a set of contacts allowing current to pass to the load. The coil only takes a very small current to operate and the contacts can handle a much larger current. You can use the switched Acc wires for the coil and a heavy duty (fused) wire direct from the battery for the load.

    This way you can switch heavy loads without overloading your Acc wires.

    PM me if you need a clearer description and I'll happily talk you through it.
    #65
  6. LC8rider

    LC8rider Been here awhile

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    This heated grip wiring keeps on coming up in a few threads. Being a smart arsed industrial sparkie since Adam wore nappies, I take it for granted sometimes that it's not a problem. I'll draw a simple diagram, including relays and making both ACC switched if prefered, then post it up. Don't want to hear of any looms going puff!!
    #66
  7. NothingClever

    NothingClever Dirt Winger

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    The Sym Tec heated grips do not require a relay. Here is one way to wire a set on the 950. This is in accordance with Sym Tec's directions.

    However, if LC8 (a professional EE) says this wiring configuration is a liability, then I'll have to reconsider Sym Tec's claim.

    [​IMG]
    #67
  8. Yorky

    Yorky Splash!!

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    I think all that LC8 is saying the same as most of us. If you're installing several electrical accessories it's sensible to use a relay to avoid overloading the Acc circuits. We'd all agree that if you're only ever going to install heated grips and little else there's no problem connecting directly to the Acc circuit.:thumb

    It also gives the opportunity to make all fusing accessible by connecting the relay output to a small fuse board. If this is located in the cubby hole all circuits and fuses are easily identified and accessible.
    #68
  9. Yorky

    Yorky Splash!!

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    #69
  10. LC8rider

    LC8rider Been here awhile

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    Exactly. Heated grips, GPS, carb heaters not a problem on ACC1&2. Now add extra lights, clothing, compressors, chargers etc... and you will have a problem. Most might get away with it, but why risk it? It's better to do it right and having the confidence that it won't let you down in the middle of nowhere at night. Hell, it's your baby afterall and it's fun to tinker :clap
    #70
  11. NothingClever

    NothingClever Dirt Winger

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    Thanks for the expertise, LC8.

    However, be advised you're a marked man now for all sorts of EE questions I might have :D.
    #71
  12. Niner

    Niner n00b

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    The heated grips on OEM BMW are hidden inside the bar ends. No wires to see. Have anyone tried this solution on KTM? The bars ends have a different attachment on KTM and you probably have to make the milled out part in the handle bars and this will make it weaker, too weak? Of course you would use a standard heating element set and NOT the BMW set. I attach a link and a picture of teh bars end and the kit from BMW.

    http://www.ebbo.org/grips.php

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #72
  13. emelgee

    emelgee Been here awhile

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    Yet another heated grip discussion....

    The above diagram is a bit of a 'bodge job' to use a technical term. It'll work, but there's a couple of obvious problems with it:
    These 'tap-in' connectors working by cutting into the original wires, which is inviting breaks and dodgy connections. If you really must take a feed off an existing wire then cut the wire and solder/heatshrink the wire together with the extra lead, which will give a far more durable connection.
    Also, if there's a problem with the wiring to the grips then it could blow the fuse in the lighting circuit meaning you lose you're lights. It's better to use a less critical circuit eg the clock or horn.
    I've used this method on bikes with no dedicated accesory fuses, but for the KTM you're far better using your switched ACC connections.
    #73
  14. baja1kwinner

    baja1kwinner Adventurer

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    Anyone know the correct way to wire up heated grips so they are off when the ignition is off???
    #74
  15. union jack

    union jack Mis-Adventurer

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    Use the ACC2 circuit its switched on the ignition side. The ACC1 is battery fed. There are ready made connectors upfront behind the lights. Take the right side cowl off and you can see them.
    #75
  16. forbesy

    forbesy Adventurer

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    I've looked at all the threads and cannot see where to mount the resistor.
    Obviously need somewhere that won't be worried by the heat it puts out.

    I have the factory KTM kit :huh .
    Any other hints/things to look for? as we will doing three SE's at the same time.:ear
    Many Thanks
    #76
  17. khodam

    khodam n00b

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    I have them installed on my 990 Adv. Here are the pros and cons:

    Pros: Although I havent seen extemely cold temp days, the heating feels pretty good on low for mild spring days. The heating is also pretty even between left and right. I have aluminum Renthal fatbars on my bike. I don't know if the delare installed any insulation on the left side. I doubt it.

    Cons: The grips are slightly larger than stock KTM. They also provide much less cushining to isolate the engine vibrations. Even though they are not hard rubber, my hand go numb since the install :cry . For this reason alone, I am looking for a "stick on" type where I can use my own grips. Also the control switch looks as if it were made in 1960's.

    Would I recommend tham? I guess I would if Vibration is not an major issue.
    #77
  18. Monty_Burns

    Monty_Burns Excellent.

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    Skip the KTM ones. Get the element style ones and then just pick out the grip that works best for you. Problems solved.
    #78
  19. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    KTM dealer recommended Honda or BWM heated grips but they are £160???

    Anyone tried either?
    #79
  20. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    #80