Heavy Metal around Mongolia and Central Asia

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by timolgra1, Aug 17, 2009.

  1. zoltar

    zoltar RIDE THE WORLD

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    Nice thread and RR.
    keep going :)
    :lurk
    #41
  2. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    We find an Irish bar:slurp and this can only end one way.
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    Jarvo gets his beer goggles on and thinks he's pulled some women:rolleyes: and invites them to our table:huh

    Somehow or other (copious pints of Guiness blurrs my memory) the girls are in taxis with us heading back to the Oasis....it all seems to be very innocent.

    Once back we all eat cheesecake, but the security guard phones Sybil the owner of the Oasis.
    She tells us that either they go or we do ...immediatley:deal

    Now young liberated city types in UB who have only just shaken off communism don't take kindly to foreigners telling them where they can or can't drink (or eat cheesecake) in their own country so they start kicking off.

    Baz escapes outside the compound with a girl and plate of cheesecake to continue his 'conversation' in a car.

    We politely ask the girls to leave, they're not happy, one tries to steal my wallet and becomes aggressive, not a good move, so I pick her up, carry her through the gates and dump her on the road outside.
    The security man looks impressed, and I shut the gate to keep them at bay.


    But of course, we didn't realise Baz was now at their mercy:D

    They pile into the car he's in demanding "money", "or we'll call the police", one girl, who's now recovered from being dumped on the road makes a grab for his sunglasses.
    Baz gets bitten on the hand in the process :D

    The next morning we wake with thick heads and only begin to remember last night when we discover the teethmarks on Baz's hand.

    It's a poor photo and you can only just make them out but I'll include it for prosperity.
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    #42
  3. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    The following morning after grovelling apologies from us all, Sybil on the right forgives us and sees us on our way with her lovely assistant.
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    Right, let's go and do what we came here for!
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    #43
  4. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    IT and hi tech plays little part in my life since I'm too thick to understand it, so here's a rough idea of the route I had in mind.
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    #44
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  5. PapaD

    PapaD Been here awhile

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    Home is where my bike breaks down!
    :lurk :lurk :lurk
    Does this mean that you do not have the GPS coordinates for the Irish Pub. A small group of us have plans for a very similar trip in 2010. We'll be watching this RR with more than just a passing interest!:ricky
    #45
  6. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    We're headed SW for the Gobi, to Dalandzadgad via Mandalgovi.
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    Dennis the Ozz is with us now
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    Mongolia is a vast, empty country....perfect.
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    Get on one of the more well used tracks and the corrugations will shake your fillings out, ride slowly and you'll destroy the bike, ride fast and it'll destroy the bike more slowly. It's a no win situation.
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    So ride where you want
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    #46
  7. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    The feeling of riding in a landscape such as this, with sky to match is indescribable.

    No tarmac anywhere, no kids holding their hands out begging for stuff, no police, no irate farmers.

    Nothing, yet everything.

    It's difficult to know whether to laugh, cry or just be.....whatever you do, it'll be ok.

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    Yeah, don't worry I know where we're going:eek1 :D
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    Dennis and Baz join me
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    Baz pauses for a snack
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    Then discovers his Wilbers rear shock has blown:cry
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    #47
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  8. ATAK

    ATAK Been here awhile

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    Great man, we did it in 2007 anty clockwise.

    We stayed in Oasis too and loved Mongolia just as much as you did. But I think Kyrgistan is even more beautiful. That is on my list for 2012 again.

    Keep up the magnificent report, Ad

    Attached Files:

    #48
  9. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    Baz's rear shock was removed and some preload wound on manually, the bolt was tight going back in, perhaps it was bent it would be the cause of a big problem later.
    Rick's Landy also needed a minor bit of attention. The bottom nt had pulled through the washer on his shock, this also happened earlier in Russia.
    The kids were just great, so enthusiastic and friendly:1drink

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    This is a very remote town, one or two streets do have short stretches tarmac but that's it for perhaps 300 miles.

    Throughout this trip I noticed the attitude of adults and in particular children changed the nearer to a road you were, on a main road it became worse and in towns children can be little gits the world over.:D
    Access to American TV culture is spreading like wildfire and there seems to be no way of stopping it, let alone reversing the trend.


    Mongolia was the exception where they were all great.:clap
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    These children were intrigued with my 'Camelback' water pipe, getting them to look up and squirting them with it caused shrieks of laughter:D
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    #49
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  10. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    Check out these cool bikers
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    Way cooler than a BMW corporate twatsuit
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    All fixed up and we head south again.
    Sand begins to become more common, I love it, some people hate it more of that soon:D

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    Two and a half days after leaving Ulaanbaatar we arrive in Dalandzadgad, on the outskirts we find scrap vehicles carefully placed....perhaps by an artist, proclaiming that motor vehicle may come and go but the desert always remains.....I wondered what the dinosaurs of that region would have thought.
    [​IMG]

    #50
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  11. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    It seems' Jarvo hurt his ankle during a fall in the sand and the others are not keen on taking GS's to the big sand dunes, because it's not like there's a road to them where you can take photos of your bike half buried in sand then ride out again.

    Our route now is NNW on 'minor routes':evil

    Baz displays his Dorset flag:rofl
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    Pete enjoying this track which wound it's way through small hills.
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    Pick a spot anywhere, ride to it and contemplate.
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    Stop and soak it up.:1drink
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    The open flatland was a joy to ride on, no need to stay on the track just pick a direction and ride as fast as you dare.
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    #51
    Jean-Luc likes this.
  12. Ze Red Baron

    Ze Red Baron Adventure seeker

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    This is a well written and photo-documented RR - thanks for this. Your pictures are fantastic, and I am very much looking forward to the mountains in Central Asia:evil :deal :clap
    #52
  13. Cresta

    Cresta Road Warrior

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    Superb! :lol3

    Love the matching riding gear, too. :D
    #53
  14. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    Sometimes there was so much traffic we just had to sit and wait.
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    [​IMG]

    These are Bactrian Camels with two humps as opposed to Dromedary Camels with only one, lovely looking animals....if you're that way inclined.
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    #54
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  15. dirtrider

    dirtrider Dusty Adventurer

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    Really enjoying this report. Always wanted to do the same ride, but the gay truckers kind of scare me.:eek1

    I don't roll that way.
    #55
  16. tracyprier

    tracyprier Adventurer

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    Quote: "I won't ask the reader to excuse my enthusiasm at this point,"

    Mate! indeed, excuse what??? If a man can't get excited about being somewhere like that on two wheels then he needs to rush to a hospital 'cause he's probably dead!

    what a stunning place and a great RR :)

    cheers
    Tracy

    #56
  17. miquel-silvestre

    miquel-silvestre horizonblade

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    Hi, guys. I friend sent your posts to me because I did recently similar trip alone. From Madrid I reached Almaty crossing Ukrain, Russia and entering into Kazakhstan by Astrakhan, reaching Atyrau and sourronding Aral Sea. The way back was by Uzbekistan and Kaz again to arrive Aktau and then Baku by ferry. I see on your map that is the way you want to do, so I know good things for you.

    Have a look at my blogsite for that trip and write to me if you need bikers help in Tashkent, Samarkand or Baku. From Istambul I went to Jerusalem and it was nice, so maybe you can change your mind and go to the Holy Land instead the cold UK.

    Keep safe



    http://www.miquel-silvestre.blogspot.com/


    http://www.myholylandjourney.blogspot.com/
    #57
  18. SGrider

    SGrider I give up Supporter

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    Great report so far, looking forward to more!:clap
    #58
  19. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    The Gobi region of Mongolia is a vast forbidding place to take heavy motorcycles but contrary to popular myth sand covers only 3%......so we'd better look carefully:evil
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    Hmmm, can't seem to find any sand here lads, I say to myself.... the others follow unwittingly:D
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    Aha, here it is and 'unfortunately' our route goes right through it:1drink
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    #59
  20. timolgra1

    timolgra1 Been here awhile

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    Chaos ensues.

    Anyone who's ridden a fully laden GS in sand will fully appreciate the situation, mix that with being in the heat of the Gobi and you'll also appreciate how easy it is to get outside of your own personal 'comfort zone'.

    I can't write all the expletives used....this is f*****ng stupid, too dangerous, the wrong bike to be here, what if one of us breaks a leg, bike's too heavy, legs too short, it'll burn the clutch out, why have we come here?

    All perfectly understandable concerns and there's nothing like a good situation to raise stress levels and dummies to be spat.

    Of course much of this outburst is aimed at me, like it's my fault there's sand in the Gobi desert, why did you bring us here etc.

    Perhaps too sharply I reply, if I wanted comfort I'd ride to the Ace Cafe, and if I knew exactly what was ahead I'd go somewhere else.

    I was loving it, why weren't they?:D
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    Possibly the fall that broke the camels back.

    Jarvo was hating every moment in Mongolia and it was clearly not for him. Now this is not a criticism at all, anyone planning such trips should ask that deep question of themselves, is this really for you, do you have that passion to revel in all moments no matter how hard they are at the time.

    I'm sure it's the question we did all ask ourselves at times over the three months, Jarvo's answer was different to ours and he left for home once out of Mongolia.
    I just hope he does eventually have some great memories of his considerable achievment.
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    If looks could kill, I'd be a dead man:D
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    Pete who's a very good rider also hated the sand but soon came to grips with it:clap
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    Looks like trouble back there
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    And eventually the sand caught me out:D
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    Pete has borrowed Rick's bike for this trip, I think it was at this point Pete who's generally the perfectly mannered Englishman exploded because the bike was too tall for his legs.

    There's only one way to ride in sand and that's stood up, weight back and fairly fast, as time went on in the trip we again encountered sand in the west and most of us had mastered this teqhnique.... in fact I'd go as far as saying, Pete and Baz were really enjoying it:eek1
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    #60
    Jean-Luc likes this.