HELP!! F**KED my LC4 cam

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Dotbond, Nov 19, 2007.

  1. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    #81
  2. TexScrotumRidesAgain

    TexScrotumRidesAgain Adventurer

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    OK first of all.......you guys are fuggin awesome,those links you put me onto are going to be a BIG help,the do it yourself stuff on the LC4 in particular! And I've only given them a quick look as I'm in nite-shift zombie mode at the moment.

    Second....I've joined a few car orientated forums before that were pretty good but look very average against Adventure Rider.

    Third....forgive me for being slow to respond,I'm not one of those people who has 24-7 access to the internet.

    OK thats enough pissing in pockets for now and THANKS again! :D
    #82
  3. ChrisC

    ChrisC Amal sex?

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    No sweat BallBag, get back to us in 3 weeks after you've read the entire LC4 Index... :lol3
    #83
  4. TexScrotumRidesAgain

    TexScrotumRidesAgain Adventurer

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    :wink:Just an update,parts arrived last week.:D

    Everything fitted together as it should(well it looked like it did anyway).:huh

    Fired her up no probs,:claplet her idle for a while and dropped the oil and changed filters, bugger all metal which is encouraging.

    Just changed oil again(is'nt that a pleasure)and took it for a squirt..........:lol3BEAUTIFUL:lol3.....

    Will do a few miles on her and change oil again just to be sure!

    THANKS again for all the info.
    #84
  5. Dotbond

    Dotbond Africa, Africa

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    Nice to know my misfortune has helped someone else.:D
    #85
  6. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    If Dotbond is back where's Creeper?
    bill
    #86
  7. Umarth

    Umarth Been here awhile

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    In case anyone fails to see the poetry in punching the pins multiple times to flare them, here's a method I've stumbled on that works great.
    All you need is a normal table vice, a 4mm socket, a peace of flat metal and a towel:

    in a vice, put the pit against the flat metal that rests agains one of the vices jaws, place 4mm socket on opposite jaw and center carefully on pin. tighten just a tad, check centering still good. Now before you torque the shit out of the vice wrapp the rocker arm and socket in the towel. This makes sure that in the event the socket would fly out, you dont loose an eye.
    You dont need to super human torque it by the way, the pin is relatively soft.
    Using this technique, generates the exact same pattern (size and depth) as the factory left on the pins.

    [​IMG]

    the end result:

    [​IMG]

    Looks like Art to me! :freaky
    #87
  8. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    That looks like a good easy method, I'll have to try it on the next one I change...
    #88
  9. Alik

    Alik viertaKTMotor *****

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    Very nice idea. ;) :clap
    #89
  10. tdreyer

    tdreyer KTiM

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    I like it, thanks!:freaky Hopefully I won't have to do this again anytime soon but that looks very nice. I would have thought it would have required a press and a LOT of pressure.

    :freaky
    #90
  11. Ned1

    Ned1 Trust is earned

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    I concur, nice idea. I didn't like the punch approach when I went through all that LC4 cam and valve drive rebuild on my SXC.
    #91
  12. Sparrowhawk

    Sparrowhawk Long timer

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    I was following a louder than normal mechanical noise that seemed to be coming from the top end of my 2000 LC4 with 25,000+ miles and figured it was the cam followers going south. I ordered up all the parts to replace the follower bearings and rebuilding the water pump and took off the valve cover. The follower bearings feel good but the large ball bearing on the cam has a full 1/16" of play (the cam moves up/down & side to side 1/16" with the bearing in place). I had never heard of that happening but I'm glad I caught it before it exploded. Both cam bearings are now added to the Munn order.

    First stupid question. The cam bearing is stamped from Taiwan. Do you think this could be OEM or is it more likely previous owners switched out and went cheap?

    Second stupid question. Since I have it apart and new follower bearings coming by FedEx I will go ahead and change them out for my peace of mind. What isn't obvious to me is how to remove the rocker arm shafts. There doesn't seem to be anything holding them in place except friction of the O-ring but there doesn't seem to be any easy way to push them out. Any hints?


    [​IMG]
    #92
  13. Crisis management

    Crisis management Latte riders FTW!

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    The rocker shafts are a stepped shaft so only remove in one direction, they are held in place by the bolts holding the cam box in place (so nothing is holding them in place now) but have a O ring on them that makes them feel "tight". A sharp tap in the right direction is all you need.
    #93
  14. Darryl625

    Darryl625 Adventurer

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    I have a question regarding the o ring on the rocker shaft. Can the o ring be changed without disassembling the top end. Just slide out enough to slip the old one off and new one on? Or are there shims on the rocker arms that may drop off the shaft?
    #94
  15. Crisis management

    Crisis management Latte riders FTW!

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    Yes, there are shims, I'm not sure if the shims will fall off the shaft in that space. If your worried about an oil leak from the shaft ends I would just use a line of sealant around the end of the shaft rather than trying to change the O ring, it's not a pressurised part of the oil system.
    #95
  16. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    Yes you can slide the rocker shaft out far enough to change the O-rings without the shims dropping off, but just barely... The exhaust shaft is the one that you must be the most careful with, the intake has a little more lateral movement before the shaft comes clear of the inner pocket...
    #96
  17. slackmeyer

    slackmeyer Don't mean sheeit. .

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    That cam bearing went out on my bike too. I caught it when it started making noise, and the valve clearances had opened way up.

    You should be able to get a small punch or wood dowel angled in the holes at the end of those rocker shafts to push them out.
    #97
  18. Darryl625

    Darryl625 Adventurer

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    Thanks for the feed back regarding the o ring on the cam shaft only the intake side o ring is weeping nothing to worry about at the moment just gives me the shits.
    #98
  19. johnno950

    johnno950 Long timer

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    Not 100% sure but is there a mod/update that states removing seal from roller bearing on cam?,hope all goes good with repair,wouldnt hurt to renew seal on end of crank (lhs)costs sub $20 any internal leakage on this seal will destroy crank>top end,if its bad enough.Looks like you will have fair bit of debri/paste floating around the frame resivor/ engine worth giving a good clean/flush,make sure by pass slug/piston isnt jammed from debri
    #99
  20. Sparrowhawk

    Sparrowhawk Long timer

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    Thanks for the advice on getting the rocker arm shafts removed. I have had negative experiences using force to take things apart when it didn't look like there was anything holding them together.

    I'd read that and understand that different owners have found both sealed and unsealed ball bearings in place. I'll be interested to see what shows up as the KTM part. It could make a difference and not to just the cam bearing.

    The camshaft sits in a little oil reservoir on top of the head. The reservoir is 1.7 cm deep except in the area on the roller bearing side where it is only 0.6 cm to the top of the machined slot where the bearing sits. (See the photos below.) With a sealed bearing the oil would be held at the higher level while an unsealed bearing would let the oil drain to the lower level. I'm not sure if it makes a big deal but it would change the amount of oil the cam lobes sit in.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]