Help me achieve perfection - WR450 twin Adv conversion

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by MotoPolo, Apr 22, 2016.

  1. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    I duplicated the length of the intake runners inside my airbox but they are really close to the end of the airbox. I think I am getting restricted flow into the runners. I figure if I cut a 1/4" off the runners I should free up flow noticeably. 1/2" should be most I'd have to shorten them.

    I bought a SpeedoDRD ( same thing). Thunder says I can't work on that until I get my neural light issue fixed so this will have to wait. :-)
  2. plumer1kt

    plumer1kt Adventurer

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    With OPEN CIRCUIT at 61 , 22 and 54 (pull the socket here)
    Ignition key on.One probe at +12v,multimeter set at DCvoltage.
    Check for -12v presence at LB/W and LB .If yes shorted wire at LB/W and LB path
    If not , close circuit at 22. Check. If -12v at LB/W and LB= faulty diode
    If not , close circuit at 22 and 61. Check. If -12v at LB/W and LB= faulty diode
    If not the relay unit is ok and the problem is somewhere else.
  3. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    With OPEN CIRCUIT at 61 , 22 and 54 (pull the socket here)
    Ignition key on.One probe at +12v,multimeter set at DCvoltage.
    Check for -12v presence at LB/W and LB .If yes shorted wire at LB/W and LB path

    Voltage reads 0

    If not , close circuit at 22. Check. If -12v at LB/W and LB= faulty diode

    Voltage reads 12 v
    If not , close circuit at 22 and 61. Check. If -12v at LB/W and LB= faulty diode

    voltage reads 12 v
    If not the relay unit is ok and the problem is somewhere else.

    I ordered a new relay unit!! - Let's see if that helps.

    Thanks guys
    JagLite and oic like this.
  4. 79thunder

    79thunder Been here awhile

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    [QUOTE

    I bought a SpeedoDRD ( same thing). Thunder says I can't work on that until I get my neural light issue fixed so this will have to wait. :-)[/QUOTE]


    I guess I deserve that.
    I'll allow it.:imaposer


    I'll also allow the installation of the SpeedoDRD. :lol2

    Or new grips or brush guards or skid plates (or anything else which doesn't effect airflow, fuel delivery or spark timing.)

    If you wish to repair your electrical concerns and return to the proper fuel map and ignition advance curve.....

    To keep this simple..
    Just follow Plumer's tests. One at a time.



    I'm only going to suggest that I would want to know with absolute certainty that the proper fuel map and ignition curve be restored before "tuning" the airflow in to and out of the engine.

    (Adding more airflow to a lean fuel map with a flat ignition curve would not be high on my list of priorities. Don't get me wrong, I don't think you'll hurt anything, but it's kind of ....pointless)


    EDIT-SORRY MOTOPOLO, We must have been posting at or near the same time.

    .
    plumer1kt likes this.
  5. plumer1kt

    plumer1kt Adventurer

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    WE ARE NOT FINISHED YET
    OPEN CIRCUIT at 22 and 61, plug in the 54 (gear sensor).
    Ignition key on.One probe at +12v ,multimeter set at DC voltage.
    Select neutral.
    With kill switch OFF check the B/R wire at the ECU socket 32.Should be 0.
    Check B/Y at ECU socket 32.Should be -12v.
    .
    Open kill switch.There should be -12v at both B/R and B/Y.
    As you are, select a gear.None of B/R and B/Y should have -12v.
    At the same time the neutral indicator should come off.
    But the bike should not be able to start.Check.

    Now the gear dash indicator should indicate the selected gear.
    Move gear lever up and down through all gears and check if the indicator works.
    Select neutral.Start the bike.Does it run?
    invisa-bill and JagLite like this.
  6. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Been here awhile

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    Wow. What a mammoth effort. I've just read from start to finish and admire your skills, abilities and patience. The help from the forum members you just have to love. Well done MotoPolo. :-)
    MotoPolo and JagLite like this.
  7. sbeck09

    sbeck09 n00b

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    Jun 5, 2017
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    Count me in for a frame, body, and seat if you decide to make more.
    MotoPolo likes this.
  8. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    Thanks - Agree - couldn't have done it without the AR forum

    Still working on a couple of items:

    1) electrical - got to solve the neutral light/gear indicator issue
    2) Exhaust - got my mat'l in to reroute exhaust
    3) Finish up skid plate
    4) paint - Found someone to wrap the white parts - should come out really nice
    5) nickel plate and reassemble
    6) work airbox
  9. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    PM Me
  10. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    Plumer - are these all checks to be done AFTER I replace the relay unit?
  11. plumer1kt

    plumer1kt Adventurer

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    That was a test before replacing the relay unit ,to check the gear sensor and the diode at (43).
    If needed, you could order a part.Hence the "WE ARE NOT FINISHED YET".
    You can still do the check before replace the relay unit.
    But you probably have the new relay unit ,so replace it and see if everything works
    With the new relay :
    • Neutral light and gear indicator work as purposed.
    • The engine can start and run at neutral.
    • Selecting a gear, kills the engine unless closed circuit at 22 no matter state of 61.
    • But needs closed circuit at 61 and kill switch to start the engine when in gear.
    In real life the above mean that your engine can run with the side stand up and a gear selected but will need to pull the clutch lever if you want to start it.With the side stand down and selected gear engine will stall and can't start.

    In your case with the clutch/stand switches by passed the options are
    • closed circuit at 22 and 61: engine run and can start with gear selected.
    • closed circuit at 22 open at 61 :engine run always but can start only in neutral
    It is you to decide if 61 will be at open or close circuit state.
    I will tell you once more that close circuit at 61 provides ground to ECU (the B/Y wire ).
    We don't know exactly what is triggering -i have a theory- but you can test ride to find out.
    Roadracer_ confirms my theory on 690's
    and @79thunder is almost convinced that applies to your engine too.
    But after all that effort to built the AR17 and the readers who will stop by to read your thread ,do the test.
    And just write that :closed circuit at clutch switch DOES/DOES NOT affect performance on fz/mt 07.
    Don't forget that our words are already on the search machines......give a shorter way to those with the same problem.Fault diagnosis is not always a pleasant thing .
    Through a simple search they can find a solution and the most important, they will have the chance to join the biggest motorcycle community .

    Back to the bike.
    Last, but the most important for me ...
    Diodes get burned or shorted but WHY in your bike?
    Were burned before you buy the donor bike?Was a crashed bike?
    Burned because you did something wrong?
    Or because something is wrong with the electrics?Another fault maybe?
    We don't know ,but at least do this, keeping in mind that over voltage or over current , short or burn diodes
    • Change all the fuses on your bike with good quality ones at the specified rate provided from Yamaha.
    • Check your regulator/rectifier for voltage spikes.
    • Check engine and frame grounds.
    • Clean /inspect all the switches.We want a good contact.
    • IF YOU HAVE POWER RELAY ON YOUR AFTER MARKET LIGHTS DO ADD A FLYBACK DIODE
    Your bike already use them (see the relay unit, diodes parallel at 19 and 20) and to be there, the bike need flyback diodes.
    Check the above , and any other possibility that i can't thing.We don't want another burned relay unit.
    Check them before you replace the unit....just in case!
    Roadracer_Al and Roofchop like this.
  12. Harvey Krumpet

    Harvey Krumpet Long timer Supporter

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    I am not worthy of posting in this thread, my mechanical ability ends with my collection of hammers. I apologise MotoPolo, I have been following the build from afar, your bike is fantastic.
    Plumer1kt, is that your TDR in the profile pic? I love em.
    plumer1kt, outbacktm and LocuL like this.
  13. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    PROGRESS - We have gears!!! Replaced the relay/diode assembly and the neutral light goes off in gear and the gear indicator lights up on the dash. As soon as I assemble my new exhaust (un-plugged header, nicer routing of tail pipe) I'll go for a ride and report.

    Plumer/Thunder - thanks for all your efforts and help diagnosing this issue. We'll see if we get more power. The after-market lights are all driven off a seperate power supply (PDM 60) - totally separate circuit - no relays added - there is a circuit diagram a few pages back. Checked the grounds and the switches are all new so we'll see if this new unit survives. This engine is from a crashed bike, the ECU has a ding, so no telling what the history is. I was amazed that it fired right up the first time.
  14. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    Took it for a ride. You know it is really hard to tell without being able to do a side by side or having made some measurements, but I feel that the ECU is probably recognizing in gear vs neutral. Bike feels plenty strong TO ME. I'm not a wheelie guy so no roll-on wheelies in 2nd or 3rd. Maybe if I sat back a bit and gave a little tug it might come right up. I've had some pretty hot bikes in my day and I don't recall any of them that would just pop the front wheel with steady speed and then crack throttle open. Hit the front brake and then gas it and sure it would come right up.

    Anyway I tried it with clutch switch opened and closed and couldn't tell the difference. Any inmates with an FZ07 in the area come on by and we'll do a comparison. I think it is pretty strong. Intake fix will help I'm sure.
  15. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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  16. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    Finalizing everything before I tear it down for nickel plating. Rerouted exhaust, now no issues with interfering with my boot and nicely tucked in; and fabbed the rear pannier support.

    IMG_4218.jpg
  17. VEXX

    VEXX Been here awhile

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    So much better looking exhaust. How’s she handling?
  18. Roofchop

    Roofchop Hands up mother stickers, this is a f**k up!

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    Hey, just a thought, what is the distance from front sprocket to end of swingarm compared to the FZ 07?

    If it is much longer it will slightly effect the bikes ability to lift the front wheel...

    Some classes of drag bikes just add an extension to the swingarm to keep the nose down.
    outbacktm likes this.
  19. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    Thanks, I agree - looks alot like Poskitt routing - still looking for a Ti muffler. It handles great - haven't really thrown it around the dirt yet because I need a skid pan - working that.
  20. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

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    It is a lot longer swingarm than the 07 and the wheel base is also much longer - good point
    Roofchop likes this.