Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by MotoPolo, Apr 22, 2016.
Not sure, ive got a feeling its a switched negative from ecu on the gsxr.
I think so too - no potential to ground detected.
I edited my previous image of the "when in gear" circuit .
Added the circuit needed for the starter button in order to trigger the starter relay.
This circuit is the green.And it is -12v
The light blue inside the red circle is the diode for the bypass webmonstro suggest.
As you can see when you hit the button,ground will pass through the diode (from green to yellow circuit) to trigger the ignition relay.Then triggers the starter relay and the bike will run.
I think a 10W diode is ok for that mod.Not less ,i wouldn't like to see what will happen with this diode shorted.
This mod is for starting the engine while in gear.
If the ECU needs info from the clutch switch while driving this mod will not help.
Now the most important!The bike can start with the side stand down in gear without clutch engaged!
Regardless the side stand switch state, the bike will start.
If we want to add the missing security feature we need to connect the diode before the stand switch.
But then the clutch switch problem will remain....
Good idea but for racing bikes.
I prefer the clutch switch... @MotoPolo
Those two switches are connected in series , with primary the stand switch.With side stand down ,whatever you do with your clutch ,the bike will never run when in gear.
That's how it works on normal bikes.
Tubliss Road test - I don't have a lot of miles (500) on the tubliss system but so far I am pleased. No leaks that I can discern on the low pressure side. I am running pretty high pressure (28 psi) to save tires and most of the miles are street. Tires were balanced by removing caliper on front wheel and applying weights until tire would stop at random points. Took 84 grams (motion pro 7 gram steel weights) to balance on opposite side of wheel from bead clamp. Rear wheel had too much stiction to do this so I just duplicated the front weights. Balance seemed fine at highway speed but not very sensitive to weights as 35 grams came off the front almost immediately (since secured with Gorilla tape) and I couldn't tell the difference.
High pressure needs refreshing about once a week. I have 110 psi pressure indicating valve stem caps and one works and one does not.
No flats or sudden loss of air and no chance to test my tubeless repair tools (fine with me).
Took a good look at a KTM 790 engine yesterday. Looks a bit more compact than Yamaha's CP2, particularly the depth of the sump below the primary drive sprocket and the tightness of the exhaust headers. I think it would fit in my frame pretty easily. Not to dish the 790 adventure but it is a big machine.
416lbs dry....that puts it right in the realm of the F800GS, which tips the scales at 478lbs wet. I'd call it a missed opportunity for KTM.
Yes, when Yamaha made the Wolverine UTV motor, 850cc, dry sump lube system, cvt, etc. ... They took the FZ-07 motor and redesigned it for the Side x Side... But it would have been nice to see them use the more compact dry sump feature on the Tenere 700 ? Seems like it really lowered the tall motor and made it quite a bit more compact...
I hope to own a new Tenere 700 by this time next year ?
A dry sump version would be sweet!
So is the bike done? Work is completed?
How much you want for it? I can offer a 1990 Honda Transalp + cash. I heard you're looking for a new project....
Done? - Almost and by definition it is done 28 Sept C2M trip. New seat and a few cleanup items left.
Offer is very tempting - take 50 lbs out of that TA and we can talk.
A few updates
1. Bike continues to run great - no issues. Installed Magura clutch switch. Seems to work fine. It has a little black plastic push rod that slides into a hole on the clutch lever chassis (just visible).
2. When I replaced the Fuel filter I cut it apart looking for tell tale black deposit from the interior of the tank ( a reported problem with 690s) - I found none. It was like-new clean.
3. Based on continued good behavior, I am only planning on taking a spare fuel pump (plus maintenance items like master links, patch kit), but no major spares
4. I re-wrapped the exhaust headers for insulation.
I'm actually sitting here hoping for rain. I want to go out and see what fails in a frog choker. Mainly to test my clothing selection but also to see if the electronics holds up in the wet.
Lol, "frog choker". Never heard that!
Well got your rain as desired
Still dry here - maybe I got up too late?
I don't think "frog choker" is quite right - I think the expression is "frog strangler"
Had a great ride yesterday - 98 miles of mostly dirt on the Cascade Discovery Route, with almost full load. Bike ran beautifully, handled great. I am going to try a bit more compression damping on both ends, but no signs of bottoming and I hit some whoopdedoos pretty hard. Only issue was loss of HID light, which later came back on. Does anyone know failure mode of HIDs? Am I correct to think that an intermittent would not be ballast, ignitor, or lamp and I should be looking for loose connection?
Bike drank 2.4 gal for the 98 miles, most of it under 20 MPH. Fan came on often on slow uphills but temps stayed cool. Ambient was about 70-80F.
At least they can spot you from the air with that paint job when you end up stranded in the wilderness
Yea the guy I was riding with really got a kick out of @Scutty 's Ronald McDonald Special - which is what I now affectionately call it.
I really do like it...stands out from the grey/black/white/red/orange that dominates ADV bikes
Put LED stand alone units in there and be done Rigid industries etc
Love this build
Yeah, but those engines are rattletraps! Reviewers online are having to turn the engines off while the talk about the bike so they can be heard. It's insane, to me, that a modern engine would rattle so bad that you can't talk over it. Stick with the Yam engine!