Help with 03' R1150RT that quits?

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Kilroy Was Here, Jul 7, 2014.

  1. Kilroy Was Here

    Kilroy Was Here Carpe Diem

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    Hi guys,
    Hoping someone can help me again :norton

    This time it is my "new" old 03' R1150RT that I bought a couple of months ago to be a commuter bike.

    The bike will quit completely for a few seconds, then come back as if nothing happened.

    It has happened as just a blip, and also for as long as maybe 10 seconds. I have rode it for several hundred miles without a single issue, and then it happened 4 times on a ride of 50 miles a few days ago.

    It quits just like if you turn of the ignition (except all electrical stays on, and only the engine dies).

    It has happened to me while cruising at 75 miles per hour as well as during slow riding in traffic.

    When it relights, it is often with a backfire (as I probably cut and opened the throttle a few times and may have got some fuel vapor in the exhaust?).

    What I have attempted is to clean all electrical contacts and relays. I also cleaned the kill switch and side stand switch (as best as I could without opening it up completely). I recently switched the relays around, but have not as yet been able to assess if it helped any.

    I am by no means a professional mechanic, but have a fairly decent understanding of the basics and would like to try to nurse this bike back to health as best as I can before giving up to the service center.

    Apparently the previous owner had this problem as well and was kind enough to tell me so (after he got my money):deal. It has been to service with his local BMW dealer to try to fix the problem as recently as in December 2013, but without apparent luck in isolating the issue and I am now open for your suggestions:ear.

    Thanks,
    #1
  2. CycleDoc59

    CycleDoc59 Wrench Rider

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    They are well known for failing crankshaft position sensors,
    (Hall effect sensors). Usually they may fail while riding, then
    work again after cooling, or just quit altogether, or fail as
    you have experienced. There are 2, and if either fails, the
    bike will not run.

    The individual sensors could be purchased a few years ago
    for about $7 each, and replaced by someone skilled with
    tedious wiring/soldering. But they appear to be out of
    production..... (bought off by BMW??) So, the whole unit
    can only be found from BMW for about $300. whoopee

    Here's the relevant thread:
    http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf
    #2
  3. zapochris

    zapochris Adventurer

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    How old is the battery, a poor one can cause stalling (did in my '02 RT). Also check the battery connections (I mean actually take off the cables and look at the cable ends for any sign of corrosion and clean accordingly. I've had a similar issue once on a Honda, drove me nuts for half the season until someone else recommended to check, found red rust on the cable end, once cleaned, no more issues. Simple stuff first. Another item is the fuel filter/hoses inside the tank. The hoses inside do deteriorate and can collapse and even split over time/mileage. Can you by-pass temporarily the kill/side stand switches?
    #3
  4. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    I wonder if you have the same ignition switch as my K1200RS. Same thing was happening to someone's bike and it turned out as dirty/corroded contacts in the electrical component of the switch.

    The electrical component is removeable and can be disassembled and cleaned. Not too many parts but sure a few springs to watch for.:eek1

    If the same switch Clymer should have the part on removing the electrical component. The rest well....I have a sticky thread somewhere on that.

    Eh...what's that stoopid smilie doing up there, sorry about that not of my doing and can't edit it out.:cry
    #4
  5. zapochris

    zapochris Adventurer

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    The previous posting reminded me of another issue that the older oilers had, the wiring harness to the ignition switch. It is tied together with plastic tie wraps quite firmly, which over time the wire abrades (or stretches/breaks) and cuases intermittent cut-outs. Does the cutouts you have come at certain handlebar positions? Try to cut the ties and wiggle the wiring while the bike is running to see if you get any cut-outs.
    #5
  6. OldPete

    OldPete Be aware Supporter

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    The battery and both ends of both cables should be removed, cleaned, then made-up with at the very least a touch of grease.

    Remember that you have bypassed the side-stand switch to see if that is the cause over a months riding.

    Buy DeOXIT and use it.
    Reviews... http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/product-reviews/B0002BBV4G

    No, I am not a shill for Caig Labs. :1drink

    In the olden days Suzuki had crap ignition switches and many of us would use a relay to feed the ignition rather than through the switch.
    #6
  7. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    Not just the oilheads...same with the K-bikes. I had two cracked casings where the looms run along the fairing bracket and knowing how small the BMW wires are I could easily have broken one on them wires. All fixed now.

    I'd rather not say too much here about the BMW ignition switches and how easy it could be to start them bikes without a key.:eek1 Use the steering lock......:D

    If the OP needs the procedure with the details and pics I'll PM him the link to my sticky thread on that, a quick look at the pics in the parts fiche leads me to believe they are the same switches and if in need of cleaning I very much doubt that it can be done in place.
    #7
  8. Kilroy Was Here

    Kilroy Was Here Carpe Diem

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    Thank you so much for the excellent advice:clap This should keep me busy for a few hours.

    I will attempt the various suggestions and report back if I find anything obvious. :norton
    #8
  9. Kilroy Was Here

    Kilroy Was Here Carpe Diem

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    Thank you for the offer, I would greatly appreciate it :norton
    #9
  10. motonut

    motonut Old Guy

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    If the battery and all connections are first rate, then, the two repeating villians with the 1150RTs that yield what ya got are the ignition switch and Hall Effect sensors. With the HESs what used to be reported regularly was that the sensors were fine but the harness to them was the culprit... many disassembled, and with the harness on the bench, performed a rework to correct the faulty wiring. They were famous for failing when damp and later working fine.

    Good luck with your fix. The oilhead will serve you very well as a commuter for lots of miles.
    #10
  11. Hennepinboy

    Hennepinboy Adventure Eater

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    When the bike dies quickly look at the RID (Rider Information Display).
    When my Hall Sensor wiring failed (02 R1150RT) the display would go blank and return when the bike could be restarted.
    You can either re-wire the sensor or replace. I did both, the old one is now a spare that I will probably never use.
    #11
  12. k1w1t1m

    k1w1t1m Kiwi

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    If it does turn out to be the HES have a look in the vendors section for Dan Cata. He sells waterproof HES plates.
    #12
  13. Kilroy Was Here

    Kilroy Was Here Carpe Diem

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    Thank you all for your advice and shares.

    Update: the bike is still sick :sick

    What is happening to it:

    It quits - Engine stops suddenly while running.
    It can happen anytime (going slow in traffic, riding fast on the interstate, completely dry or wet, with a cold engine right after starting in the morning or hot engine after 2 hours of riding, etc. etc.)
    Sometimes it occurs frequently (every 5 minutes), other times it runs like a champ for 2 weeks of daily riding without a hiccup.

    It usually relights after a few seconds (before I come to stop) either by popping the clutch or hitting the starter. When it relights it is usually with a loud backfire in the exhaust pipe.

    The stuff I have done to try to fix the problem:
    Note that the bike has been to two separate BMW dealers who have been unable to find and repair the problem (Ventura BMW by the previous owner and the BMW dealer "Valley Cycle" in Bakersfield by me last month after paying them $736,- with no change to the bike as it quit 10 miles after I picked it up).

    • Hall sensor replaced
    • Ignition switch cleaned
    • Battery terminals cleaned
    • Grounding wire cleaned
    • All mini relays replaced
    • All fuses and connectors in the fuse box cleaned
    • Spark pluggs replaced
    • Fuel pressure measured within normal limits
    • Kill switch cleaned
    • Sidestand switch cleaned
    • ignition switch wiring harness verified to be free of kinks and in good condition

    I was wondering if anyone can inform me about a good way to bypass the side stand switch?

    Suggestions and advice greatly appreciated.
    :norton
    #13
  14. larryboy

    larryboy Stable genius.

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    How is the pressure when it quits?
    #14
  15. Kilroy Was Here

    Kilroy Was Here Carpe Diem

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    Thank you for the reply. I don't know. The pressure was measured by BMW on the bench and the bike was not quitting at the moment they tested it to my knowledge.

    There are no fault codes noted either...
    #15
  16. larryboy

    larryboy Stable genius.

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    I'd really be leaning towards the pump after everything else that has been checked.

    Side stand switch bypass info:

    http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/SSIBD.pdf
    #16
  17. Kilroy Was Here

    Kilroy Was Here Carpe Diem

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    [​IMG]

    Hoping someone can verify that the correct procedure to bypass the side stand safety switch is to connect the white and the brown wire in the picture.:ear

    [​IMG]

    Thanks,

    Yes, I know the risk..:deal

    :norton
    #17
  18. Kilroy Was Here

    Kilroy Was Here Carpe Diem

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    Thank you :freaky

    [​IMG]

    Done

    crossing my fingers as Im going for a ride to try it out...
    #18
  19. larryboy

    larryboy Stable genius.

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    Good luck!!

    :ricky
    #19
  20. Kilroy Was Here

    Kilroy Was Here Carpe Diem

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    :kboom

    No change....

    I rode 5 miles before the engine quit for 1 second and then came back with a backfire. Then 3 miles more and the same. Another 3 miles and another 1 second quit and backfire. then it ran great without any issues for 15 miles until I got back home.

    Back to the drawing board...
    #20