Here I go again

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by draperg1, Jan 14, 2017.

  1. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    After looking at the post I made above about the transfer of fuel and range back in May, since I changed the final drive to a 3:0 ratio my range has dropped to about 280-90. I also noticed on my last gas fill the fuel did not transfer automatically around town, had to use the fuel pump?????? :confused
    #81
  2. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    Thought I would give an update on tire wear, now that the Achilles Economist is available again. I have been very pleased with mileage on both the rear Achilles and the front Bridgestone BT45 Battleax. Since I put these tires in service in April 2017 I have accumulated 10,250 miles and still have a ways to go on both. The front has a little cupping but not bad and plenty of tread, the rear is wearing even and seems to have plenty left in the tank! :clap IMG_20181010_113634635.jpg IMG_20181010_113748012.jpg
    #82
  3. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    You got 13,000 from your previous BT45. Did that one cup too? I think with that much cupping I might try running it a little softer but each to his own. How much pressure do you typically run?
    #83
  4. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    I run 36 in all tires, on my R11 rig I tried the same tire and ran 32-34 with the same results. Since I run all highway and the LT rig is so heavy I find the higher pressure makes for easy turning. I will probably get close to 15k out of these tires on a much heavier rig, I'm satisfied with that.
    #84
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  5. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    36 is fine. I was thinking maybe you were running 42 or something. I have that same tire on my GSA rig and on my K12LT rig and I run it at 38.
    #85
  6. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    I have run at 38 as well, I use 36 psi valve caps to see if it goes below.
    #86
  7. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    IMG_20190828_110342484.jpg IMG_20190828_110354331.jpg IMG_20190828_113524458.jpg IMG_20190829_092430352.jpg While I have been extremely pleased with this rig, the one area that has not been to my liking has been the sidecar brake. After 16k + miles it is time to address. This chair has its own master cylinder that is operated by a cable to the bike. The problem has been that the chair brake has about a 1" throw and the bike has a 1.5" - 2" throw. I had the cable attached to the bike pedal but there is not enough area to build a proper linkage. After many adjustments either the brake on the chair would lock with little rear on the bike or the bike rear would be strong and no chair brake. I even modified the cable which helped but still not satisfactory. After this I decided to go old school and build a separate pedal for chair and link to bike. I started with purchasing an ATV rear brake pedal and building a bracket, pivot, return spring, mount etc. After some cutting & welding it started taking shape. Since I have a hitch on the rig for towing my cargo trailer when needed to keep boss monkey in the style to which she is accustomed, the 1.5" square tube made a very suitable mounting space. I had already extended the bike pedal since I have peg lowers on bike so I made one longer to actuate chair pedal. The adjustment is easy by bending the extension - KISS principle.
    #87
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  8. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    Well it is time for a major service on the rig. I have put about 17k on it in the last couple of years. One of the items on the list is the fuel filter which is a real PITA since you have to remove almost everything to get to the gas tank etc. Several people have installed external fuel filters on BMW RTs by replacing the filter in the tank with a length of hose and installing the filter in the pressure line externally. I have not heard of any problems with this method, just putting it out there for comments.
    #88
  9. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    I've done it both ways went back to leaving it in the tank as on my GS they always seemed in the way some place, but that ought to be right up your alley as you seem to have a knack for brackets and gadgets :-)
    #89
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  10. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    Well the service is complete, air & fuel filter, fluids, brake/clutch bleed, etc. AND a new HyperPro rear spring. After a short test ride the spring gets a thumbs up. Noticed right away the bike/rig did not sag as much when mounted but does not seem harsh when riding I am sure thanks to the progessivly wound spring. Will report again as I get more miles on it.
    #90
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  11. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    If you watch Kirk Johnson's DIY vid, it looks like removing and replacing the rear shock is not big deal Though, his vid suggests that you can't really do it with the sidecar in place. So how much work was it really, and did you remove the car?
    #91
  12. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    IMG_20191110_121539852.jpg IMG_20191112_092810940.jpg To remove shock you need to remove right side fairing top, right side cover and passenger foot peg. I did remove body of chair from frame but I was changing trans fluid etc and I knew it would be easier. I have a hoist in my shop that makes this fairly easy. You can remove top shock bolt, but the nut is a little hard to get to with the gas tank on but can be done. The bottom bolt can be accessed with wheel and tire removed but I had to loosen part of the subframe so as to pull bottom bolt out. I reversed the bolt when I reinstalled so if I need to remove again I can and not fool with subframe. Changing the spring was an experience as well. If you can get access to a strut spring compressor it helps but you have to have a 1/4" plate with a 1 5/8' hole in center. You can set one set of jaws in the spring but not enough real estate for both sets. Put the 1/4" plate over the end of shock and it grabs the shock body and the other set of jaws can grab plate. The shop I took it to said the spring was tighter than the struts he does!
    #92
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  13. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    This is a short term report on the Hyper Pro rear spring installed on my stock rear LT shock. I realized today that I have a little over 300mi on my rig since I changed my spring and also realized I have not scraped once since the install. This is all the more meaningful since all of these miles have been around town where most of the scraping takes place, driveways, speed bumps, etc. Will keep you updated. :clap:clap
    #93
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  14. FLYING EYEBALL

    FLYING EYEBALL out of step

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    Nice, sometimes a little change is all we need, good onya for getting it done.
    #94
  15. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    Did you follow Klaus's recommendation for spring weight ?
    #95
  16. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    Do not know what his recommendation is. I bought the stock spring from Hyper Pro after talking to a couple of people who had used it. The prevailing opinion was that is was considerably heavier than stock. It was the only spring offered for the stock shock. I do run the pre-load at max. It was also the only aftermarket spring I could find to fit the stock LT shock. As the shocks available were very $$$$$$ I decided to take a chance on just a spring. One of the people I spoke with was Kirk Johnson, the K12LT guy. He uses this spring on his two wheel but not with max pre-load. My current evaluation is very positive as I am not scrapping and the ride is not as harsh.
    #96
  17. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    #97
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  18. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    Guess I got lucky - as I always say, I would rather be lucky than good! Per Ned Klaus poo pooed the spring on stock shock idea, but it has worked for me.
    #98
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  19. draperg1

    draperg1 PapaBear

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    Please check out my add for my R11R/Hannigan rig on fleabay! HOME-PC - WIN_20150415_130447.JPG
    #99
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  20. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    Not showing up in my ebay search , That one might be better on Bring a trailer.
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