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Discussion in 'Hacks' started by mikepa, Feb 5, 2020.
See, told you I was OCD !
When I was in high school (‘65) I worked at a gas station/garage after school and the owner had me strip down a Plymouth for a valve job. During the reassembly I asked the owner where the torque wrench was so I could torque the heads, he told me “ don’t be a pu__y just tighten the f__kin bolts” ( yea he was a real charmer). When I started the engine it looked like Niagara falls !! He went right out and bought a torque wrench
Found in the web, most definitely LMAO!
I have always enjoyed your build threads, the quality of your work speaks for its self. Your shop looks more like an operating room, my garage is a classic example of chaos just short of being declared a disaster area. Your wiring is electrical art form, I get lost taking the spark plug wire off of a one cylinder lawn mower, the sure "fire" way to insure whatever project is being worked on to go up in smoke is for "me" to come within ten feet of anything electrical, I have NEVER mastered the art of keeping the sacred smoke within the wires. In fact I still have a jar of genuine Lucas replacement smoke on the shelf.
Hey Mr. Cob, good to hear from you! Thanks for the kind words. On the other hand, you can pull a cylinder and replace a piston by the side of the road, so I think we're about equal in capabilities - same same but different. You still Ural'ing it in your neck of the woods? Was just at IMWA picking up some parts a couple of weeks ago, super impressed with their warehouse and inventory!
I still have three Urals, my rally bike, the 2008 that I did the circumnavigation of the USA on, and the 2014 actually a 2013 as its one of the first prototype fueli rigs. I sold my R1150 rig a couple of years ago. Yes the operation at "Little Irbit" has come a long way since its early days they are very well organized now the inventory is all computerized not like the old days when no one knew what was in stock without going out and trying to find it in a maze of often times unopened crates or unmarked boxes.
I am still Ural-a-ling but am now doing a lot of traveling with my RV as Donna has finally retired. Like all of my toys my RV is unique. The trailer has an 18 foot garage so I can bring my toys with me. Honk Honk.
Did you ask Flyin' Monkeys for permission to post his photo?
Holy Shit Dave, color me blown away! Words fail me, but let's start with . . . respect! That's gotta' be fun getting thru a Starbuck's drive through!
Many years ago I jammed gears for a living, then decided to go to school and learn a trade, became a machinist and welder. But I held my love of driving big iron, 6 years ago I got tired of not having the power to climb mountains at speed and constantly looking for fuel with the Dodge one tons puny 36 gallon fuel tank. So I got myself a real truck and built it "my way" click this link to the build photo gallery,
I need to update that gallery as the rig now has multicolored flames on the "Hood" and its name in matching colors on the side of the sleeper. My first HDT ( Heavy Duty Truck ) RV Hauler was a 2002 Freightliner Columbia, that I named "Semi-Sane" an apt description of my condition, so it only follows that the 2001 Peterbilt 379 Ex Hood, should be named "Semi-Sane II".
Back to side car rigs and wiring, if you should ever tire of working on nice rigs, my rally rig, the "Predator" sure could use some of your wiring expertise , the mess its wiring is in would bring tears to your eyes literally its that bad but so far for some unknown reason it hasn't caught on fire yet, KNOCKING ON WOOD BIG TIME That poor Ural has gone through HELL and back many times but it just keeps running, its now up to 825cc's, flat slide pumper carbs, dual spark plug heads, and a whole bunch of other mods that make it not only the UGLIEST Ural that I know of but the fastest one that I have ran across in all of my travels. That said I didn't build it for speed I built it for torque in the off road-dual sport environment where it excels. It ain't pretty but it gets the job done.
Hezus Christos Dave, your rig, super impressive! Regarding Predator, I'd be honored to see what we can come up with, I love a good challenge, though of course, there are those who would say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Two conditions: (1) I get to ride shotgun in that fracking rig of yours, and (2) I just did a spring cleaning of my shop. Of course, we don't mind out hacks getting road cred and dirt when we're out riding, it comes with the territory, but none of that in my shop. My house, my rules, you're gonna' have to wash that puppy first!
I'm done! Have a "few minor repairs" to do before I can claim this rig is 100%, but give me four more hours, and I could hand it over to the owner. As The owner has not yet sent me a license plate, registration, and proof of insurance, I haven't been able to get out for a long test drive, but I'm pretty confident this rig could be fueled-up and driven to either Prudhoe Bay or Ushuaia tomorrow, with no drama.
It's funny, wiring the bike seems "clean". Wiring the tub is a mess:
When I first took delivery of this rig, I was stunned at how awful with wiring was. There were wires everywhere, running down the front and rear rigging, a total mess. A lot of it was run outside the tub, which is not only ugly, but doesn't offer the best protection. I chose to run everything inside the tub. I used good old split loom inside, as the wiring harness in the tub is subject to wear and abrasion from the monkey and gear (NOTE: my priority was to refit this rig so that it was safe and reliable, we'll do take it apart and do a repaint of the tub this fall when the riding season is over):
I've seen both dealers and owners use cheap adhesive-backed cable tie mounts, which always fail over time, or even worse, drill holes and use pop rivets to secure cable clamps to fix wire harnesses. A new learning on this project is Weld Mount cable tie mounts. Weld Mount sells a costly syntactic adhesive for gluing these to any surface, requiring refrigeration for storage, special mixing tips, an applicator, etc. I found that good old JB Weld does the trick. No holes, and yo can place the mounts anywhere!:
The owner wanted 12V outlets in the tub, do I fabricated a bracket and installed duel Hella/Euro-style outlets. which are way better than those stupid "cigarette lighter" outlets that should have been sunseted years ago:
The 12VDC outlets installed:
OK, tub is wired, let's complete the refit! Ural has a new, very high-quality seat for their tubs, made in Italy. It starts with an injection-molded base with threaded brass inserts, a "secret" storage compartment:
The seat base snaps in, secured by a spring-loaded latch (note the snazzy new molded rubber mat for the tub!):
With the seat installed, and wiring completed, I'm done with this project. Here's the photo gallery!:
Two rigs ready for the riding season. Good thing! Hope to take delivery of my Stepler rig tomorrow!
Mike, do you remember this pic you posted of the external wiring to the aux driving lights on the tub?
Can you show us a pic showing how you routed the new aux light wiring from outside to inside?
I have been boondocking in the southern Arizona desert a few miles south of Quartzsite for the last few months, playing with my newest toy a hot rod CAN AM X3 XRC side by side, oh yeah. I missed the hard trail riding I used to do with my Jeeps, bought this SxS in August of 2018 and have been having a blast ever since.
I'll be home before April first, I'll PM you and if you have the time within the next couple of months to work your magic on the Predator, I promise to get that bugger clean as I can, hope the removing the mud, dirt and bugs don't cause it to fall apart that may be all that's holding it together. It's been many years since I have been to your home, I sold my pickup years ago, is your driveway capable of supporting ( truck and Ural will weigh around 22,000 pounds ) me driving the Pete, with the Predator on its deck to your garage? Also are the trees along your driveway trimmed to allow the 13 foot tall beast to pass? If not I might be able to find someone with a smaller truck to haul the hack.
Dave, you're gonna' need a smaller truck! My friend has a Peterbilt "work truck" with a crane, genset, fuel re-supply tanks, etc., but he's not pulling a trailer! Anyway, you have a deal. We cancelled our month-long trip to Japan this month and next, and have put other plans on hold, so I'll be around for a while.
Ned, I'll take some photos and post tomorrow. All wiring from the bike to sidecar run through a single 6-wire trailer harness that is laced along the rear upper control arm. Only drilled two holes in the tub, one in the nose for the lights, the other for lights on the tub's fender.
That red canister, fuel, I presume?
Do you got any info about it?
Looks like just the thing I can use.
The manufacturer is ROTOPAX, here is a link their website, and like most anything, can be ordered via Amazon:
Here are the photos of the chair's wiring, nose to tail . . .
Single connector from bike to chair. A 6-pin trailer connector from CURT Industries. Not elegant, but brutally functional, costs a whopping $12 online:
Starting at the nose, a single hole and grommet for the front auxiliary lights, fully tinned wire, 18AWG, in braided sleeving, with Wurth cloth tape overlap, I'm still a big fan of cloth tape. Have never had a BMW harness wrapped in cloth tape fall like the fracking rubber sleeving BMW used on this bike, it simply flakes off like dandruff:
Inside, decided to revert back to molded split loom primarily for its abrasion resistance. Rather than drill new holes for cable tie mounts, or using those adhesive foam tape ones that fall off after a year, I used molded ABS mounts from Weld Mount, and secure them with JB Weld Kwikset epoxy, super strong result. Only four wires running from the nose back, 12V and Ground for the lights, and the same for two Euro/Hella accessory outlets:
Used a Packard WeatherPAK 4-wire connector for the lights in the fender, as I like to have things serviceable and repairable as needed. Properly assembled, these are almost submersible:
Interior view from the trunk. Again, stayed with molded split loom for abrasion resistance from gear bouncing around in the trunk. Only drilled two holes, one for the trailer connector to the left, one for the lights on the fender to the right. Those WELD MOUNTS came in very handy, as I had to run the fender harness up, then across, then down:
As I wanted all the connections and lighting relay up and out of the way, things got a bit crowded up in the corner, but it all worked the first time! Note that I am not using chassis ground anywhere. Every light, outlet and relay are wired into a common ground circuit. I used the fasteners securing the terminal strip as ground posts so I could stack ground wires without having to install a larger terminal strip or ground bus. I also ran a single heavy-gauge ground wire from the sidecar to the bike. This rig will have zero chassis ground problems (and yes, the chassis is, in fact, grounded too):