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Discussion in 'Hacks' started by mikepa, Feb 5, 2020.
Beautiful! Amazing work. May I ask what the source is for those wheels?
Why, that would be our very own inmate, @Stroker , builder/fabricator extraordinaire of his Centerline rotary-forged, aluminum, modular wheels, with custom hub adapters and front disk rotor hub/carrier. Also known as his "Advantage" wheels. I've personally purchased three sets from him over the years, purchased others for installs on friends rigs.
They are awesome! Shifting gears on you, below are some pics of a set on my Stepler/LBS sidecar project:
This will never do, 3rd pic from the top, bare metal / surface rust where hex bolt is located.
Yup, you're right on there! Former owner didn't know jack about maintenance of any kind apparently. Current owner (I'm just rebuilding it) understandably, he wants to ride it now that Spring has Sprung. And, my paint guy is still back-logged from the numerous fender-benders we experienced in the PNW from our small snowfall last year.
This fall/winter, I'll pull the tub and have my most excellent paint and body guy, Dean, work his magic on it. Strip, primer, BASF/Glasurit color coats, clearcoat, polish, then a UPOL chipguard coating inside the tub and trunk, underneath the tub and fender. It'll be awesome then. Until then, war paint!
While we're at it, may have my new builder, Ad Donkers at LBS in Holland, build a new engine cradle, chassis and trailing arm for it. Get rid of the DMC "universal" kit. It'll be much more robust, have a good sidecar brake integrated to ABS with a biasing valve, and, finally, make the whole rig all metric!
Thanks, I'll have a look at it.
Absolutely STUNNING work, @mikepa ...just incredible. Should your friend decide this isn't the rig for him, I call dibs!
I'll be starting the rewiring work on my rig as soon as I get the new fuel pump and aux fuel tank fitting installed. I hope you don't mind, but I'll be stealing a few of the tricks you've been kind enough to document here. AND...I really appreciate the effort taken to document the build; now I know how to do it.
Guess I’ve some how missed this awesome thread and am quite late to the party.
Having been around high end race shops I really appreciate the quality and for lack of a better term “professionalism” of Mike’s work. Nicely done Sir!!
I was interested in seeing the trail reducer lower triple tree discussion raise it’s lowly head again. I have one of DMC’s products sitting in a box somewhere, but I removed it due to my adding one of Stoker’s awesome wheels. The combo of the two was just too “twitchy” in the way it handled for me. When reports of failure(s) came in I started researching with my race shop buddies and a friend who at the time was the lead weldor at Space X. It was brought up that indeed like Mike said 7075 was the alloy that would be the best choice, especially over 6061. Not worried about the T-6 hardness, as all aluminum hardens with with age and actually a heat treatment of aluminum is often called “artificially aging”. My Spaz X buddy (his term after quitting) had recommended using a steel insert that had a flange and was inserted from the bottom of the triple clamp for receiving the ball.
I found out about the difference between the cast ABS ring and the stamped ring with my Stoker wheel. My 07 GSA used a stamped ring and Stoker had sent a cast ring. The first thing I found on my test ride was that the speedo didn’t work with the cast ring. Checking with a master BMW mechanic the difference is the the cast ring is for an analog signal and the stamped ring is for a digital signal!
There are pros and cons to using a chassis ground. My personal preference is to go ahead and run the additional wire and not chassis ground. Not a big deal, more like different styles. As far as the cable ties, dedicated flush cuts that never see anything except zip ties is the best answer. Nothing worse than shredding you hands on lazy ass his who leave sharp pointy things in tight places.
Sorry for the long post, by this time next week this “sheltering in place” is going to have me sitting in the corner blowing bubbles.
Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing!
What CVAN said...
Nice work Mike! This is Dinobike aka Tim W... I just recently acquired a 2006 Ural Raven sidecar rig & am tweaking a few things as I find them although not quite in yours or Mr, Cob's league!
Hope to see you down the road soon!
Thanks @DinoBike. I previously owned three Ural Gear-Ups in the same year range as yours. I've been to the factory in Irbit, Russia, three times, have always been fond of the brand and company, and have always believed, and still do, that they make the toughest and most versatile tubs in the world. So much so that I just took delivery of this one!
Oh wow that thing is nice! Your Wife looks like she's enjoying it too!
Fortunately, she loves moto-adventures, come bad roads, rain, thunderstorms, tropical downpours, hail, and the occasional light snowfall, as much as I do! The trick to keep your (human) passenger as comfortable as possible, good helmet, rain-proof riding gear, heated jacket liner, heated gloves, and in our newest rig, heated and adjustable seat (a different rig, the Stepler, but will be adding the same to the Gear-Up soon). It's money well spent!
Mike, what type of adjustable seat can you squeeze into a Ural, or other narrow sidecar body. My rig has a Claude Stanley body on a Ural frame. We made the aluminum body as wide as possible given the frame width. I have a non adjustable tractor type seat in it now, but have been searching for a long time to find something that would offer my monkey, Gina, a little more comfort. The seat can only be 18 1/2” wide. I almost had a beautiful Recaro sport boat seat to fit, but couldn’t stomach cutting into it.
I'll let you know! The Stepler has a seat from a British company called Exmoor Trim, designed to fit a Land Rover Defender. However, it's a bit wide for an Ural. After some searching (amazing how many adjustable auto/racing seats are offered by online retailers that don't provide any dimensions) I finally decided on an R100 adjustable road seat from Sparco: https://www.sparcousa.com/product/r100
The Ural tub measures 18-1/2" across the front upper edge of the standard seat. The Sparco R100 is 19-1/2". As it has outer bolsters, I'm *hoping* it will either compress sufficiently, or, can be modified to fit. A new, two-tone R100 is only $300 (Sparco makes competition seats that go for over $7,000!), so I would have the same (understandable) hesitation that you did when thinking of modding a Recaro!
Seat is on order. Have a Gear-Up sitting in Garage Mahal. Will let you know how it goes, but that will be a different build/mod thread!
Nice seat - any plan to deal with it not being water resistant? You might ask Sparco if one of the Tilt adjustor handles can be removed or if the seat requires the use of both handles to tilt. Removing one would most likely give you the 1" you need to fit the Ural tub. I always loved Sparco - my last race seat is now with Ben S.
Good points! Thought I'd see what the actual material and stitching looked like. The seat will either be under a tonneau cover if I'm solo, or my wife in it if not. Am hoping I can get away with some seam sealing and water-repellent. If not, know a great softgoods/canvas guy from my boating days, will see if he can re-upholster in a suitable material.
Forklift seats have fore and aft and back adjustment and adjustable springing for the seat cushion.
Should be ok for weather exposure too.
Mine's not here atm so can't measure.
I used Snow Proof weatherproofing on both vinyl & leather seats with good results. Basically a beeswax product, smear a light coat on, hit it with heat (hair dryer rather than heat gun) and buff it to remove the excess.
Applied about once a month, sealed up Corbin stitching very well!
I have never worried about my MC seat getting wet. Of course I ride in waterproof gear. Leather is the most comfortable but will absorb water regardless of what you do. The downside of that is heat loss. Heated seats can solve that. Good news is that this is not leather.
Mike are you going to heat the back as well or rely on heated gear? Curious as to how you would deal with all of the stitching.
Having spent a good amount of time in both Sparco and Recaro seating, I can say that they are not for the wide. Those bolsters are big and designed to hold the the most ‘lean‘ in place. Add riding gear and it gets tighter. That said these do appear to be pretty friendly given modest lower bolsters. Regardless the passenger will be reasonably snug in place. I personally like that, others may not.