I've never experienced or heard of anyone who has had that happen. There is no way to swap the left/right around from the bike controls. As a starting point I'd check that the lights are wired correctly to the left and right. Typically Red (or Yellow) would go to the left and Orange (or White) would go to the right. Fastest way to diagnose would be to pop off the seat, turn the ignition on and unplug the red circuit to see which light turns off (assuming you are using Red for the left hand light).
Thanks! Not going to troubleshoot on the road. Really got drowned yesterday. Will check and report after I get home. Yeah, I know, dumbo wired it up wrong, that's what I would think; they worked properly at home earlier......
Update 1. Generacion Ezcan. Enable horn and left and right light separatly and stop light. Work great. 5 minutes to setup.
Yo - that Hexguy I'm running a smartcan and getting an error message on bottom of the diagnostics page regarding exceeding the maximum amp capability/capacity of 30 amps. I'm running aux lights in #1, 10 amps with 10 amp fuse, nothing in #2, put amps at 1 on the fuse, #3 is the horn with 20 amps and a 25 amp fuse, #4 are the brake lights, 4 amps each. I've got Denali D-4's in #1 and a Soundbomb in #3 and a Clearwater Billie Backlight in #4.These are the default levels, except #2 which is not being used and I set it as low aw possible. The error message says I could blow a fuse at these levels. Why am I getting an error message with these values? My wife's MY17 R1200GSA aux lights, horn and tail light would come on sometimes at startup and sometimes nothing(all failed, none worked when another did not). If she restarted, they might or might not come on. If they came on, they seem to have stayed on the entire session. I ordered a replacement controller, installed it and still get the error message. I updated the controller software on the PC and software on the smartcan. Ideas? Should I worry about this error? We are going on a 7K mile trip here soon. Update: I just ran the hexcan update in my bike, a MY17 R1200GSA. Ran the diagnostics and the error was at the bottom of the diagnostics page as well. Same set up as my wife.
Took me half a day's ride for this to sink in. You are right. Obviously I wired them backwards, when I switched the red/orange plugs; viola. Thanks man.
1) Fusing info message We added this *info* message so that you can know that it would be possible, with the currently set fuses to overload the system fuse, i.e. go over 30A (physical fuse is 30A) total current draw without the individual circuit electronic fuses triggering. So if you look at your fuse config, you have 10A + 1A + 25A + 4A, which could allow up to 40A total current to flow without exceeding the individual circuit outputs. This depends a bit on what you have connected. Say you have lights which draw up to 9A, a 20A horn, a second set of lights which draw 3A and an accessory (simple circuit override) which draws 3A. If the lights are all on at 100% and the accessory is drawing max power, then you push the horn, that is going to draw 35A. Physical fuses blow faster the more you overload them, but it may blow depending on how long you sustain the 35A draw. We do have a system wide 30A electronic fuse built in too, so if you exceed the system 30A, the electronic fuse will blow (which happens faster than the physical fuse). Cycling ignition will reset this. So, the info message is there to warn you that in certain circumstances, if you are running your system close to the fuse setting limits, the system fuse may trip. It is totally fine to run like this though, as it depends on what you are actually running your lights & accessories at. If you are running a high power horn, you will almost certainly see this info message. You don't need to worry about it, but you should consider what operating conditions may overload the system fuse. The green info symbol is for info messages and the yellow triangle is for warnings. Warnings would be things that could cause the system not to function, e.g. low battery voltage or no CAN bus connection detected. 2) Lights being off when starting the bike We often get requests about this when people accidentally turn off their lights. You have a 2017 R1200GSA with a CANSmart, so the on/off mechanism is to hold the turn signal cancel for 3s to toggle aux lights 1 on and off, and a triple click of the turn signal cancel will toggle aux lights 2 on and off. Horn and brake should still function when the auxiliary lights are turned off. If all the accessories are off when you turn on the ignition, that would be unexpected behaviour and you should contact support to diagnose the issue, although you have already replaced the unit.
Another question.... If you have the aux lights turned off.... and you press the horn or 3 times the hi beam ... should the aux turn on (flashing) or not ? In my case they don't...
It's the flasher to turn on/off is it what you are trying to achieve? Pressing it 3 times triggers the 2nd port on/off, holding the flasher 3 seconds turns on/off channel 1.
So, I just successfully installed my new Hex EZCAN. For now, I have the aux horn and aux brake light set up. But have a question for the brake light function. Is it true that in the "no flashing" setting the nuisance speed setting (in the extra settings) has no meaning? As it turns out, the brake light always goes full ON at 0 speed, regardless of the km/h slider position. I know, why wouldn't you want a solid brake light ON at any speed? However, I have some aux break light from a previous setup, which are awesome. But they have their own electronics with programmable flash patterns. Due to this electronic I can't use the EZCan patterns, as these are not passed through (internal capacitance). So, I need the "no flashing" setting but don't want it ON at 0 speed. In the end, it wouldn't do any harm to enable the nuisance speed setting in "no flashing". Or am I doing something wrong?
If you adjust the light intensity with the wonder wheel, is it supposed to revert to the default setting upon cycling the ignition switch?
Since you are not going to manipulate any of your aux items like heated vest or air pump, would it make sense to just hook them up directly to the battery with fuse protection?
To prevent the connectors to the vest and air pump from always being hot, the more elegant way of wiring them up would be to use a fuse, than a relay that is controlled by a switched hot lead , and the output of the relay goes to the connectors to the vest and air pump.
If the lights are disabled (toggled off with the turn signal cancel) then all the features are disabled. So the behaviour you are seeing is exactly what should happen. You would have to set all the sliders to 0% (day/night high and low beam) to have the flashing features working with the lights off.
So what you would like is for the brake to be active (solid) only above a certain speed? The ezCAN can't do this right now, and it seems to be a very specific use case, so we probably won't add that without more requests and use cases.
Yes, essentially. I understand, it is a very specific case. But in the settings, the speed slider is still available in the "no flashing" setting. It just doesn't seems to have an effect. On the other hand, I did some more testing with the other non-no-flashing settings and the light also comes on, regardless of the speed setting while stationary (ign ON, engine not running, R1200GSA). So, I am wondering whether something else is wrong. v1906.2, serial# EZ1 010 331. Thanks
OK, never mind, I figured it out. I used a simple LED with resistor to get a clear understanding. I , mistakenly, assumed that the aux brake light would be OFF until it gets modulated according to the selected pattern. But in reality it is ON (in sync with the bike's brake light) until it gets modulated. Makes sense, my bad.
