High-School ride Rustoration, '67 Ducati

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by YamaGeek, Jun 9, 2019.

  1. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Skeletor sparklemuffin.

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,507
    Location:
    western oregon
    Well maybe I should just use the Mobil 1 as another flush treatment and get some Delo in it real soon before running it further?

    Unless the chemistry has done it's thing already and my seals are all borked.
    #21
  2. Roofchop

    Roofchop Hands up mother stickers, this is a f**k up!

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2016
    Oddometer:
    432
    Location:
    Carool, NSW
    My local Duc dealer only uses Castrol old school in bevels, can't remember the grade.

    He says they don't like synthetics...

    Full synthetic $$ in everything else...

    Oh, and he is an ex Ducati factory race team mechanic!
    #22
    YamaGeek likes this.
  3. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Skeletor sparklemuffin.

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,507
    Location:
    western oregon
    My father owned a few tractors and excavators with Diesel engines and bought Delo 30# in 55 gallon drums, so all our small engines, bikes and cars ran Chevron Delo. I'm getting a couple quarts of Delo 15-40, it's what this bike ran back in '73~'75, and it's considered a better oil because of the Zinc and Phosphate.

    I'm not sure what would be considered 'old school' Castrol oil.

    Is it a single weight?

    The guy who runs Bevelheaven's forum says any oil with an SG rating on it's ASI rondrel, and a multi grade of at least 15-40w is fine for road bike use. I'm not racing this bike. Bi-Mart also sells an aircooled V-Twin specific 20-50w semi synth oil
    #23
  4. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Skeletor sparklemuffin.

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,507
    Location:
    western oregon
    Pains me to post images of this bike's poor corroded cases. Here's the craptastic $22 dollar VM24 clone carb. Note the $9.00 Briggs and Stratton oiled foam over pleated paper element aircleaner fitted to a plumbing elbow. Swwee-eeet!

    I'm betting there's a bit of intake tuning with this. The engine starts pretty easily with this new carb. For those of you that don't remember the old Amal and Dell'Orto carburetor choking drill.

    Duc_carb2.JPG

    Duc_carb1.JPG


    Well, you don't really 'choke' them, you flooded them. In fact you press a button on the float body and it eventually pees raw gas on your hand to remind you to stop pressing the button.

    It's damn annoying!

    Leave the ignition off, crack the throttle a bit and kick it through to get some fuel in the cylinder, then turn on ignition and kick through with a slight blip so the engine gets a little more air and it's usually running.. And your hand stinks of gas.

    These new carbs, they're great. Just pull out the enrichment knob and kick a couple times, ignition off. And then switch on and kick through, fires right up at a fast burbly idle without any scaring of flighty pets and small children. Perfect!
    #24
  5. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2010
    Oddometer:
    10,330
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Tires, wheel bearings, chain, dirty oil on the air filter........


    Take it to the quail.
    #25
    YamaGeek likes this.
  6. Baroquenride

    Baroquenride Everyone dies, but not everyone truly lives.

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,217
    Location:
    Clark Co, Wa
    I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with this! :thumb
    #26
    YamaGeek likes this.
  7. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    83,726
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    I can hardly believe it runs. I am not a patina guy, but I would not clean it up much unless I had to tear it down. That is kinda cool all by itself. :thumb
    #27
    YamaGeek likes this.
  8. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Skeletor sparklemuffin.

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,507
    Location:
    western oregon
    Possibly enter the Beater Bike Rally? It largely depends on a how much time I can devote to this, I have a lot of summer projects.
    #28
  9. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Skeletor sparklemuffin.

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,507
    Location:
    western oregon
    I'm sort afraid to do too much de-powdering on the engine. It might be better to leave what aluminum is left alone.

    Typically this corrosion is dealt with by soda blasting? I'm going to make it safe and have a few happy years in the sun with it before it goes to a motorcycle junkyard.
    #29
    Beezer and JimVonBaden like this.
  10. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    83,726
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    If you ever do go down this path, this guy does great work. Fun to just look at his thread! https://advrider.com/f/threads/vapor-blasting-services-restore-aluminum.1088796/
    #30
    YamaGeek likes this.
  11. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Skeletor sparklemuffin.

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,507
    Location:
    western oregon
    Some disassembly required.

    DSC000026.JPG

    This is the OEM Pirelli tire this bike was sold with, it's not really in great shape but the tread is hardly worn. Spokes were cut on both wheels and the rims will be sandblasted and repainted black. The wheel bearings grease is clean, but dried a bit. I suspect they'll clean out and regrease up just fine.

    DSC000027.JPG

    Attached Files:

    #31
  12. Baroquenride

    Baroquenride Everyone dies, but not everyone truly lives.

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,217
    Location:
    Clark Co, Wa
    https://diyvintagemoto.com/gpvh/
    I looked for vapor blasting near you and no one advertises it. This guy in Grants Pass might be a good choice and not terribly far away.
    #32
  13. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Skeletor sparklemuffin.

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,507
    Location:
    western oregon
    I appreciate the gesture, but, this bike was never vapor blasting pretty when I was riding it back in 1974.

    It's a pricey cosmetic fix for a pretty scabby set of engine cases. I want to keep the patina but make it safe. I'm finding that going over it with a stiff nylon brush does a fair job of reducing the powder. The rust will be Ospho'd and painted.

    That's as far as I go with aesthetics.
    #33
    chris a likes this.
  14. Roofchop

    Roofchop Hands up mother stickers, this is a f**k up!

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2016
    Oddometer:
    432
    Location:
    Carool, NSW
    Vapor blasting is fantastic but parts need to be fully dis assembled.

    Just the stiff nylon brush and WD 40 or similar will be fine!

    (and a period correct air cleaner!):D
    #34
    YamaGeek likes this.
  15. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Skeletor sparklemuffin.

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,507
    Location:
    western oregon
    :fitz And here I was thinking I'd come up with a clever, cheap, new air cleaner fix. You can't please some people.
    #35
  16. 3legs

    3legs Real men ride sidecars Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,817
    Location:
    Adelaide,South Oz
    Ok i've been sitting back watching what you and others recommend what you should do with it and I agree with everyone, but the restorer in me just keeps screaming NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO you must restore it back to original condition because it's such a lovely old bike and probably reasonably rare.

    Ssssssssssssssssssssoooooooooooooooooooooooo the other side of me says yes restore it to original condition THEN ride the shit out of it and give it your own "patina" rather than what the weather gave it.

    Just my 2c worth.
    #36
    JimVonBaden and YamaGeek like this.
  17. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,018
    Location:
    Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
    shoot it with ACF 50
    #37
  18. Roofchop

    Roofchop Hands up mother stickers, this is a f**k up!

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2016
    Oddometer:
    432
    Location:
    Carool, NSW
    Nearly all old Ducs are over restored queens....

    Get a ye olde air cleaner from a swap meet or somewhere??

    Make it safe brakes etc, then wipe it with an oily rag once a month!:clap
    #38
    villageidiot likes this.
  19. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Skeletor sparklemuffin.

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,507
    Location:
    western oregon
    The NOS parts for these bikes are crazy prices nowadays, collectors have made getting the most mundane bits more expensive than the worth of this bike. It's largely why this bike is in this forum and not Old School. I'll give it a try but I cannot even find a period correct Aprilla headlight assembly and beauty ring, most of these parts are excessively expensive and I don't have the depth of pocket.

    I'm considering myself lucky to have DIY'd the B&S air cleaner, it's nearly twice the media area and most small engine shops carry them. Plus I'm a big believer in small engine intake tuning and the ABS elbow should improve the intake airflow. You can't beat the price of this. compared to the old NOS Ducati aircleaner.

    Good news is the brake shoes are in fine shape with lots of lining left, what little corrosion in the drum itself will clean up with emery cloth easily enough. Some new grease on the speedometer gears, shaft and cable. I'm going with a lower, narrower handlebar, might borrow my old Yamaha L5T-A's.

    I'm not especially happy with the old seat, I have long legs and I'm pretty folded up on this saddle. I recall riding this in the past getting a bit of a leg cramp on longer rides.
    #39
    Tony Baloney likes this.
  20. motomike14

    motomike14 Thumper Crusader Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,025
    Location:
    Florida
    A well functioning bike is always more fun than a conversation piece, IMO. Make it a rider and enjoy it...even if you might need a tetanus shot to handle some parts :rofl
    #40