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Discussion in 'Moto Bellissima: All Other Dualsports' started by 805gregg, Apr 12, 2006.
Motion Pro can make any cable you need. Reasonably priced as well and top quality.
Since you have some experience doing this, how much can I lower the bike without messing something up? Specifically, what length WP shock did you use? I can have the forks shortened. I can also have the frame geometry altered if necessary. In fact, I already altered it, but in the wrong direction. The person repairing it, who alters frame geometry for race teams, says he can make it whatever I want. He also asked if I could find out what the original specs were for the frame geometry.
If I am willing to spend the money to make the alterations, what would you recommend? This will never go offroad, so I don't have to be concerned about ground clearance, but for rough roads I would like to keep as much of the suspension travel as I can. I can get on my Husqvarna SM610 (barely), so it can be that tall, but lower would better.
I had no problems getting my feet down, and I have a 30" inseam (almost 5ft 7")
Think my saddle was approx 3" lower than stock motard
I'd lower the front triple clamps/yokes and go for a shorter shock. You can lower it more in the rear than front to keep the angles like the 21-18" Outback line.
So; source a shorter shock. How much shorter is up to your own needs/calculations which I explained earlier.
Next wire broke today. This time the speedometer wire broke just above the hub of the weel. Does anyone know if this is stock, KTM, Husa, Suzuki.... or special highland design?
I know the speed anyways but now i can not find out when it is time to visit the petrol station.
Why do you do this repair?
How do you know when the torque limiter is not working?
Last time I broke the speedo-wire I just bought a Universal speedo-wire kit, just the inner wire, and cut it to the right length. It comes with a standardnipple that fits. Number 20-154 alt www.lellesmcdelar.se or 69-6154 at www.touringbutiken.se
Starter motor runs but will not turn the engine. Usually turns over once or twice then just labours. Makes you think the battery or starter motor is crocked. Good battery does not fix the problem.
Hey 950 - John and Johan are the experts to answer the mechanical issues.
The symptoms my bike made were progressively harsh bad clanking grinding noises like the starter gear was not engaging properly. Hot starting was worse than cold starts. I replaced the torque limiter. Now with the old or new torque limiter the starter might engage for a moment only to spin like there is no resitence and it's not turning anything. My next guess as the culprit for my 950's non starting is the Sprag Clutch/Freewheel Hub. I haven't sourced a new Sprag Clutch yet but it does look like it is a Brog Warner part.
John, you do me too much credit. I'm an owner, rider and interested observer but mechanical expert nah!
I leave that to Johan
He da man
Sounds like the sprag to me too.
E-mailed you today, before I read this post
Johan and John - you guys are the best.
Johan thanks for the information on the Sprag - I sent an email to order two; need one on the shelf just in case on two levels; my known talent to FUBAR a simple RR and second the bike don't go when it goes.
Can you (or anyone) explain why?
I dont really get the function straightend out in my mind.
The torque limiter is there to pick up the reverse torque when the engine kicks back so the starter will not be broken, that much I get. But for the "forward" function I can not see why it can not turn the engine around if broken?
Is it slipping?
Is it grinding and stalling?
If the starter would rev up and not driving the enging around I would get it that the sprag is broken. Nothing strange about that. But with the torque limiter... whats up with that heap of metal gears?
I clearly suffer from a sliping TL. I took it out to examine it and it slips at 28 Nm which is to soon. I have tried every tool in the shed to tighten it but failed. I also used them again to pick it appart for cleaning and reassembly. Another failure. I do not have those special brackets and i think that would be the key to success. Is this a standard bracket that any old mechanic has i the workshop or is it Highland special? Meaning: Do i have to make my own brackets or shall i go around in the nieghborhood to find a mechanic?
The thing is that the TL is just a TL no matter what direction the engine is running and at what speed.If the engine runs faster (FWD) another freeweeling gear will compensate for that. This is what happens when the engine is running nomally after start up. If the engine runs slower than the starter it will slip. If the engine does not turn at all the TL will slip even more and if the engine finally runs backwards the TL will be slipping alot to make it possible for the starter to continue turning in the same direction whitout totally burning up. I had to open the cover and gently running the starter for short bursts to find this out. Not obvious for a non mechanical guy.
BTW i just talked to Martin and Frank at Rollox. They explained that the small gear on this device is screwed tight all the way through the threads down to the bottom. If you want to tighten it you need to take it apart and put another washer / schims between the gear and the spring washer to increase the slip torque. Have to try this later. Frank told me
brackets is the shit for this kind of work.
New torque limiter. Solved my starting issues.
New Sprag Clutch brings joy to this side of the pond.
Mine too. It only worked for 25000kms. Not good enough or has your lasted even shorter? Frank told me there is no autodecomp and the starter is a powerful thing that eventually wears the TL out.
I tried to take the malfunctional TL apart but failed big time. I will not try again for some time....
Mine lasted only about 12000km. I talked to Lillen and he said that eventually the backfires will break the torque limiter.
I have a friend with a Husaberg 650 that have had about the same starting issues. He now took the TL apart and put a shim in to get the right torque and it worked fine again. The Husaberg TL looked like it was easier to take apart. But the prise for the Husaberg TL is twice the Highland TL.
First TL replaced @ 5000km second at 10000km
Sprag replaced @ 8000 and 9000 ...hm
Credit to Rollox for getting the details on the Borg Warner Sprag Clutch. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
For future reference if anybody has a sprag failure here is what I learned: The sprag is a Borg Warner Part, Part No. FWD 332008 BLS-H&X.<o></o>
The same sprag is used in Sherco Enduro, 2004 and on. In the Sherco catalog the part is #0127 referencing Freewheel BWX 1310003. When I got the actual package from Sherco, the part number on the package was identical to the Borg Warner FWD 332008 BLS-H&X. Since I wasnt 100% sure that the Sherco part would work, I Ordered a KTM Sprag that had all the same leading numbers but no H&X extension. The KTM part # is 58440026000 referencing Free-wheel FWD 332008 BLS. The sprag is used on the KTM LC4 640 with E start from at least 2002 to 2007. I have not installed the KTM sprag but it appears to be identical. Price wise, the KTM sprag was half the cost of the Sherco.<o></o>