Hodakaguy's Overland Tacoma Builds - on to new adventures.

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by Hodakaguy, Dec 31, 2017.

  1. jkam

    jkam Nomadic Man

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    I had an Engel 45 for a few years. It was great at keeping things either frozen or nice and cold. Used very little power and had a nice slide mount for it.
    What I wished I had at the end was a fridge/freezer, the ability to have things both frozen and cold is really nice if you spend a lot of time outdoors.

    P.S. What happened to the van build you were going to do? I like the new build so no worries.
    #41
  2. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    Another 3rd generation Taco owner following along.
    #42
  3. Ridge

    Ridge Faster than farm equipment. Supporter

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    :augie

    IMG_6208.JPG

    'cept I might'a got the dealer to throw in the grille to sweeten the deal since they really wanted that sale to get their monthly quota... :D

    Following with antici.... pation, Hodakaguy! :clap
    #43
  4. JaceHarp

    JaceHarp n00b

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    Following... 20171105_120252.jpg
    #44
  5. Scott_PDX

    Scott_PDX Leisure Engineer

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    Portland...the newer one on the left side.
    Why not use the fridge in the Four Wheel Camper? Do you already have an FWC or something, if so any pictures?

    Looking forward to the rest of the build.
    #45
  6. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    Our Swift will be a shell model with roll over couch and heater installed. We will fabricate a mount for the ARB and use it inside for the fridge. When we had our Westy we found that we didn't use the sink or water in the camper, it takes up a lot of space if you don't use it so we ended up going with just the Shell model on the FWC. As a side note we had a shell model Raven on our Tundra and it worked great for us :-).

    The other advantage of the ARB fridge is it's more efficient than the units in the FWC, with the door opening up the cool air doesn't spill out of the fridge every time it's opened and helps to reduce the cycle times.

    I'll post up pics of the truck/camper combo in the near future :-)

    Hodakaguy
    #46
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  7. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    Ok...Lets get this build rolling!

    Parts have started to arrive and it's time to get the trucks ready for upcoming adventures this spring. Oh yeah!!

    Picked up a large box of parts today from FedEx. I was planning on unloading the pallet and loosely placing it all in the truck but the pallet actually fit in the bed! Sweet!

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    LOTS of parts.....and LOT of work ahead.

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    Upper Control Arms. Decided to give the Delta Joints a try in hopes of a little longer life compared to a Uniball Joint....Time will tell.

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    Well with 1200 miles on the truck it's time to get a little Invasive!! lol.

    Stock....

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    Up on 5 Ton Jack Stands.

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    With the wheels/tires removed we stacked them under the middle of the frame on each side, this will be a backup safety just in case anything was to bump the truck off the stands.

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    Stock rear suspension....with the mighty TRD OFF ROAD Shocks.

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    Just a little bit of Difference between the OEM unit and the OME BP-51 Rear. I've read a lot of good on the BP-51's, can't wait to try them out! Initial quality looks amazing!

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    Time to pull the Differentials. We will be re-gearing both trucks with Nitro 4.88 Gearing. The stock gearing on these trucks is insanely high, even with stock tires the trans hunts between 5th and 6th constantly with any bit of elevation change on the Highway. With the overly Tall overdrive and 285/75-R16 tires the 4.88's should make the truck a lot more fun to drive :-)

    Draining the Oil on the Rear Diff......Ahhhhh the aroma of gear oil :-)

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    Remove the guard and connectors for the rear locker.

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    Placing paint marks to index the drive line so it goes back on in the same orientation.

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    Disconnect the Drive line from the 3rd member.

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    Pull the bolts on the E-brake cable to give some slack to slide the axles out.

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    Sliding the axle out. Remove the 4 bolts holding the axle onto the housing, also remove the brake line connection (You can skip this step by removing the anchor points for the brake line along the axle and get enough slack, this will keep you from having to bleed the brakes but I'm installing longer SS brake lines so it won't matter in my case). Also disconnect the ABS sensor connectors.

    Side note....I got in a hurry here and didn't clean off the flange areas before pulling the axle. It was cleaned after this picture and I pre-cleaned the other side before pulling to ensure no dirt falls on the axle/seals. A small plastic cap was installed to keep brake fluid from dripping out.

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    3rd member removed from the truck.

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    At this point I slid the axles back into place and bolted everything back up to keep everything clean until the new gears are ready to be re-installed.

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    Axle sealed up and waiting.

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    Stock 3rd member out of the truck.

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    Nitro 4.88 gearing with REM Polishing.

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    That's it for today.....Lots more to come.

    Hodakaguy
    #47
  8. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Sweet!

    I traded in my Audi S4 for a Wrangler JKU. I can't wait to start modding.
    #48
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  9. See-Double-You

    See-Double-You Long timer

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    Score !
    #49
    Hodakaguy likes this.
  10. efzee

    efzee Adventurer

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    Oct 10, 2012
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    96
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    Las Vegas
    Anyone else surprised that thing has drums on the back?
    #50
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  11. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    Yeah they have never upgraded the Tacoma's to rear disk....weird.

    Hodakaguy
    #51
  12. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    More Progress.....

    This morning I decided to check compatibility with my spring compressor on the front shocks, The BP-51 Units are internal bypass shocks so the body is wider than most limiting use of most spring compressors.

    I purchased this unit about 5 years ago and it has been awesome on all my projects, so much easier and safer than a cheap spring compressor. It has different size cups to match your spring diameter and you compress by turning the single bolt head at the bottom.

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    Now to check compatibility with the Shock. With any aluminum body shock you should relieve tension on the spring before making adjustments to the collar, otherwise damage can occur to the aluminum threads.

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    And success! Not a lot of clearance but the spring cups do clear the body!

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    Now to get the front diff out of the truck.

    Drained the front diff oil and removed the brake calipers, hub assemblies, sway bar connections, tie rod connections, axles etc. on each side.

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    Placing index marks on the front drive line connection.

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    Electrical connectors disconnected and 10mm bolt removed on the upper passenger side that holds the wiring.

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    Drivers side has a hidden bolt up on top that holds a bracket that needs to be removed, hard to see in this picture. You can also see the drivers side needle bearing that always fails once lifted, this will be replaced with the ECGS bushing while the diff is out.

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    Front Diff lowered out of the truck.

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    Big difference between the OEM and OME :-)

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    More to come....

    Hodakaguy
    #52
  13. GP640

    GP640 Long timer

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    Puzzled by the paint marks on the flanges. I know you're obsessive about detail but one
    advantage to the flange set up is the joints stay in phase unless you separate the slip joint.

    Great project.
    #53
  14. KeithinSC

    KeithinSC Long timer

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    Stinky gear oil? Didja know you can get grape scented??!!!
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    Great build. Nothing like tearing apart a brand new truck!
    #54
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  15. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    LOL...That's Awesome!

    Hodakaguy
    #55
  16. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    Yeah...I just like to index everything on anything drive line related, OCD :-)

    Hodakaguy
    #56
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  17. budsboy

    budsboy I crashed the swing too. Supporter

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    You can't be OCD - the letters are in the wrong order.
    #57
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  18. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    Got a little more work done tonight...slow but sure :-)

    Next up remove the factory upper control arm. The UCA bolt is a pain in the butt to remove. The metal lip of the fender interferes with the bolt and keeps it from being able to be removed, a little careful bending with some channel locks and there is just enough clearance for removal. It's still a super tight fit but it does come out.

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    The red arrow shows the area that gets bent back a bit for clearance. You can bend it back flat when finished or leave it alone so it's ready for next time, it's really not noticable.

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    The UCA Bolt passes next to the battery tray and under/through this wiring bundle (Red Arrow). You need to make sure it's not snagging on the wiring as you use a drift to push the bolt out.

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    Factory UCA next to the Icon replacement.

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    Greasing up the bushing for the Icon UCA. Everything gets a good coat of grease (Bel-Ray Waterproof) except where the bolt slides through, I cleaned that area out before install.

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    All greased up and ready for install. They will get hit again with a grease gun right before final torque on the bolt.

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    Looking better already :-). Still need to install the brackets for the remote reservoir.

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    Wheels showed up today. We are going with the "Cast Iron Black" AX201 Wheels in 16"x8", Zero Offset. Should look awesome with the Quicksand!

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    More to come.......

    Hodakaguy
    #58
  19. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    LOL...I almost added that to my post! I actually have CDO....OCD alphabetized like it should be lol.

    Hodakaguy
    #59
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  20. Cycle61

    Cycle61 making it up as I go Supporter

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    Holy shit, not wasting any time. Subscribed.
    #60
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