Hodakaguy's Ural Gear Up...Mods, Pics & Adventures!

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by Hodakaguy, Nov 1, 2020.

  1. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,088
    Location:
    Eastern WA State
    Picked up a new (to me) 2018 Ural Gear Up with 57 miles on the clock, previous owner got sick and couldn't ride it. Been sitting for two years and barely ran when I went to test drive it, opened up the tank and was hit in the face with a strong Varnish smell. Once home I drained the fuel (nasty) and filled the tank with some 91 Ethanol free fuel. Changed engine oil, verified cylinder head torque (36 ft/lbs) and set the valves (right side was a little loose and noisy). Greased the U-joints and took it for a spin :-)

    With fresh fuel it's running great, although the idle is a tad low. Years ago I had a R69S with a Steib LS200 and drove the wheels off of it for a couple years, feels great to be back on 3 wheels! My Kiddo absolutely loves riding in the hack!

    Next up i need to lube the cables, splines etc and finish with the general maint duties. Now to finish breaking it in and ill do another full service around 300 miles, then again at 1000.

    I'll be posting more soon :cheers:

    Hodakaguy

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    Nasty Fuel! I'm surprised it ran at all!

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    Checked the head bolts at 36 ft/lbs...all tight and no movement.

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    Kiddo Approved...

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    Hodakaguy
    #1
  2. 9Realms

    9Realms Drawn in by the complex plot

    Joined:
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    6,360
    Location:
    Central Minn.
    Cool bike, nice van :-)
    #2
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  3. KHud

    KHud Survivor

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    Jun 24, 2008
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    Congratulations! Loose and noisy is the factory spec for Ural valves. :-)
    #3
  4. Tmaximusv

    Tmaximusv Separated at birth

    Joined:
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    4,289
    Location:
    Gateway to the Sandhills
    Ooooooooo! :y0! Are we going to be witness to an incredible transformation as in other Hodakaguy builds?

    More welding pron!?!
    #4
    Hodakaguy likes this.
  5. TurTal

    TurTal Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2015
    Oddometer:
    4,585
    Rare but check rims for stress cracks

    If out...phase both drive shafts

    If you can't pull your rear axle with 2 fingers...shim your F/D....off center bore will bind the drive and effect performance and eat donuts

    Probably done already but it won't hurt to check if the P.O. had the ecu updated to the off road map...to lean from factory

    Engine responds well to exhaust upgrade 2into1

    Seals will usually stop weeping the more you drive it...if not upgrade to dual lip

    Rare that year but Spoke nipples could still be sharp...instant blow out if that's the case....doesn't hurt to pull and check every wheel....I know it's a pita but so is crashing


    Congrats....Good year...nice color scheme...give it a thorough once over and you'll be good to go






    You can learn from others hard knocks over here....

    https://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/
    .
    #5
  6. KHud

    KHud Survivor

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    He is correct about it being a good year.... all of the cool kids have 2018 models.
    #6
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  7. TurTal

    TurTal Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2015
    Oddometer:
    4,585
    Yeah...I wish I had a 2018...had to settle for a shitty 19/20

    I'm always gettin jipped

    .
    #7
  8. Bar None

    Bar None OLD DUDE Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2007
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    SWFL WNC
    WOW! A brand new 2018 GU! Great rig and color.
    #8
    Hodakaguy likes this.
  9. KHud

    KHud Survivor

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    Jun 24, 2008
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    Big Sky Country
    I feel your pain. Spousal Unit has a 19. Nice bike, but not nice enough for me to change.
    #9
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  10. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    #10
  11. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    Thanks for the advice, I'm on Soviet Steeds as well.

    Hodakaguy
    #11
  12. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    I'd love to have the EFI on the new rigs, but the savings on this one was to good to pass up. :-)

    Hodakaguy
    #12
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  13. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    Thanks, I love the color. Looks different in pics, nice Metalic burnt orange in person.

    Hodakaguy
    #13
  14. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Wired up my heated gear and attached the wireless heat controller via a RAM mount to the bars. Heated gear has to be one of the best riding accessories made!

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    Cruising around and running errands, Kiddo loves riding in the hack. Here were stopped and Grandmas house for a visit.

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    Hodakaguy
    #14
  15. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Next up....Fuel.

    Just like most modern vehicles the Ural comes from the factory very lean to meet emissions requirements. The bike stumbles at idle and occasionally pops and hiccups while riding. It's very difficult to ride through a parking lot in first gear as the bike lurches and hiccups while trying to hold a steady speed. More fuel is in order.

    I ordered an EJK (Electronic Jet Kit) tuner to allow fine tuning of the fuel mapping. The EJK can add fuel but can not take away fuel from the factory map. Ural has an updated "off road" map that is suppose to address these issues for the most part but without a dealer close by to me the tuner will allow me to dial in the fuel mapping with no dealer needed.

    The EJK Tuner

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    To allow proper wire routing i pulled the fuel tank. A few spare vacuum caps worked great to plug the fuel lines.

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    Preparing to route the wiring.

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    The EJK comes with plug and play connectors for the oxygen sensors and fuel injectors.

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    The left side OEM oxygen sensor connector.

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    EJK connectors plugged in and re-connected to the bike. (The pink wire looks pinched from the snap tie but its not)

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    Injector wiring connected and routed along the throttle cables.

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    The tuner requires switched power which is taken from the rear brake light circuit. The kit comes with a wiring adapter that works with the 14-16 bikes but won't fit the 17-18 units due to wiring harness changes. I fabricated my own power plug from an SAE connector that I had handy and tapped into the brake circuit under the seat.

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    The tuner is mounted via velcro on top of the air box where it's easy to access to make any changes that are needed.

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    While I had the seat off its a good time to add some 3M paint protective film to the rear portion of the tank to keep the front of the seat from wearing into the paint over time.

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    All buttoned back up :-)

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    With the tuner set to the factory settings there is a huge improvement. The idle is a lot smoother with no stumbles and first gear is now usable! Rideability has improved with noticeably less stumble when accelerating from a stop. It's acting like it could still use just a tad more fuel down low but I will hold off on any further adjustments until I get vacuum ports added to the throttle bodies and perform a proper balance.

    Overall I'm very happy with the EJK Tuner so far :-)

    More to come...

    Hodakaguy
    #15
  16. wfv56

    wfv56 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2004
    Oddometer:
    159
    Location:
    Tennessee
    I’ve sniffed around ural’s for years. I’m delighted you have taken the plunge for me. Nothing like living vicariously.
    #16
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  17. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    Next up....Crank Case Vent Mod

    I'm starting to modify the throttle bodies to accept vacuum ports (More on that soon) and while I was in there decided to remove the crank case breather line from the air box. The OEM breather line leaves the crank case and enters the air box under the air filter (which keeps the paper air filter free of oil mist for the most part), it then splits through a T-fitting and tubing then is directed into each cylinders intake where the oil mist and oil/water (white sludge) gets sucked through the throttle bodies and then into the cylinder. No need to send this goop to the top end! The bike only has 200 miles on it now and there was already a noticeable oily film built up on the inside of the throttle bodies...Yuk!

    I pulled the OEM Vent hose and turned it 90 degrees then added another section of new hose, re-using the original OEM fitting that went into the air box. The new line is routed down below the engine and secured to the lower frame. The internal vent is timed and only allows positive pressure pulses to leave the crank case (No back flow). You could add a filter or a catch can to the end of the breather line but open will work just fine as well. I used a rubber plug with some black adhesive/sealant to seal off the original vent entrance into the air box.

    Removing the original Oetiker clamps that hold the intake tubes onto the air box and throttle bodies, these are one time use clamps and are cut to remove them. I'm replacing them with thin rolled edge hose clamps (more info on these soon).

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    With the intake tube removed you can see the plastic crank case went tubing centered in the intake, complete with white oily water waiting to be pulled into the cylinder.

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    More oily water sitting in the rubber intake piping.

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    A quick wipe of the finger inside the intake piping.

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    Oily film built up on the throttle bodies.

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    Here you can see the OEM crank case vent hose entering the air box just above the cylinder.

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    Here's the original vent line removed from the bike with a new section of hose added.

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    Re-installing the hose back onto the crank case breather connection, the hose is mounted 90 deg from original so the hose can run down underneath the bike.

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    Here's a photo of the divider tubing that's located inside the air box. This tubing splits the flow of the original crank case gases and directs it to each intake. This tubing would help keep the oily water off the paper air filter. I removed this tubing completely.

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    A little black sealant on a rubber plug does nicely to seal up the air box where the original vent entered.

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    And back together, no more oily sludge heading places it shouldn't be! More to come soon on the throttle body mods.

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    Hodakaguy
    #17
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  18. Hookalatch

    Hookalatch Born Under Bad Sign

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2006
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    1,254
    Location:
    Cottonwood, CA

    I don't have a Ural but I appreciate the job you do describing the work and the good pictures. Seems like quite a color change on your exhaust system for only 200 miles on the rig.
    #18
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  19. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider Supporter

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    Oddometer:
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    Thanks Mate, I enjoy documenting mods etc and hope it helps others perform their own work. Discoloring of the pipes is pretty normal with how lean engines come from the factory now to meet emissions, the exhaust temperatures are hotter than they should be. Once proper fueling is addressed the exhaust temps will drop and will help. Also depends on the quality and thickness of the material that the pipes are made from.

    Hodakaguy
    #19
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  20. GotDammitDave

    GotDammitDave Been here awhile

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    Jul 27, 2016
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    Newport,NC
    How does it run with the crank vented to atmosphere rather than to the air box? Im not really up on most modern bikes but the older ones, hondas in particular, didnt run so well when it vented to atmosphere. Hondas had somethin called a sludge trap between the crank case and air box. I know its an apples versus oranges thing but it raises the question with me.
    #20
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