Honda CB500X

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by JimmieA, Nov 12, 2012.

  1. JamesHTrotter

    JamesHTrotter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2017
    Oddometer:
    105
    Location:
    New York
    @gavmac Checked the exhaust plate, and pretty sure it isn't the bash plate. It sounds like it is coming from between the tank and the top of the engine somewhere. Looking to narrow it down before taking it all apart trying to find the culprit.
    Anyone else have anything in there get loose? Only at 5k does it make that sound. Once it is above ore below the sound stops.
    Thanks so much!
  2. OneAUout

    OneAUout Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    94
    Location:
    New Zealand
    IMG_7425.JPG Added a pair of Rigid Industries 20211 Dually LED Light 3 Inch flood lights for USD$155. Left side has a clip-on amber cover and this light is on whenever the bike is powered. The Amber light is a gem for conspicuity and safety in a the day time. In a herd of cars with bright white LED driving lights, the yellow stands out and I can see cage-drivers noticing me. Perhaps the asymmetry of the headlight with one yellow light helps? The yellow light is quite bright and a different from an indicator flasher and I am now comfortable that its not mistaken for turn signal.
    IMG_7426.JPG
    IMG_7192.JPG Right side light is linked to be on with the standard high beam using the forward options plug behind the dash. After reading how many people have issues with this plug, or at least in location it, I was pleasantly surprised how accessible it was. Easy to reach with my finger tips. I used a stepped drill bit to cut a circular hole into the dash for an on/off switch for the high beamingly extra light. Cut a perfect circular hole in a second. As you push the stepped drill bit deeper, the hole gets larger but by the time I’m at 20mm diameter hole the tip of the drill bit is now deep into the dash and getting close to boring into the wiring loom. Watch out!

    If I was doing it again, I'd purchase one flood light and one spot light. The flood just doesn't illuminate far enough down the road.
    khemist likes this.
  3. OneAUout

    OneAUout Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    94
    Location:
    New Zealand
    I like my GPS to be in the same focal plane as the exisiting dashboard and tall so that my eyes do not need to divert from the road when I want to take in data. I tried a couple of RAM mount variations but found that they positioned the GPS too far from the Honda dash. I settled on a piece of scrap aluminium that required a slight curvature at the sides and an 'L" bend to a central tab onto which I could rubber mount my car GPS. I upgraded the Garmin Nuvi in my car and relocated the outgoing unit to the 500X. The car now has a Nuvi 61 with a wider screen, better for map reading. However the older Garmin now on the bike has the better speed feature. The speedo is significantly larger on the older Garmin. Newer models crowd in additional info like elevation above sea level and time to the Queen's birthday etc. More visual clutter that makes for a lesser digital satellite speedo.
    IMG_7188.JPG IMG_7562.JPG
    The Palmer Products screen brackets is one of my favourite additions to the bike. - I thought it expensive at the time, but combined with the MRA X-Creen Sport Windshield lip from Revzilla in the U.S. creates a quiet-air space.

    Its height and shape keep the GPS dry at all times when moving.
    Singlespeed92 likes this.
  4. OneAUout

    OneAUout Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    94
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Some years ago, a London taxi driver tried to edge into the same lane that my pearlescent white, 1988, BMW R100RS occupied. A quick blast from the twin Fiamm alpine horns gave him pause to reconsider his actions. And save my bike and leg. When I sold the Beemer, I bought a spare set of Fiamms to put on a future bike. Skip forward 12 years, and finding them in my must-put-on-the-bike-someday plastic box, I decided to fit them to my 500X. With the fairing sides off, there's little space to work with and no obvious unused volume to that could take two horns, each twice the size of the original.
    IMG_7494.JPG
    No obvious unused space for 2 horns here.


    So the plan changed to fit just the low-tone horn of the Fiamm pair. Not wanting to hang the trumpet out into space under the radiator off the original bracket, where it can suck up rain water coming off the front tyre, I opted to move the horn in-board and down low for better weather protection.

    A Denali sound bomb mounting bracket carries the horn after several attempts to create my own bracket, one that could position the horn far enough aft, and support its weight. Denali bracket is just so fit-for purpose and I should not even have tried to make my own bracket. Wasted 3 riding hours.
    IMG_7558.JPG
    Sound Bomb bracket wins over home made attempts at a bracket.

    IMG_7559.JPG
    Low-tone Fiamm horn, one half of pair.

    Eastern Beaver shipped in a high-power horn wiring harness with built-in relay. This connects direct to the battery with 12 gauge wire and comes with its own 20Amp fuse. While a 20A fuse at first seems excessive, horns do make short duration high current draws on an electrical system. One of the reasons manufacturers go for low current small devices.
    William42 and Singlespeed92 like this.
  5. JamesHTrotter

    JamesHTrotter Been here awhile

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    Dec 31, 2017
    Oddometer:
    105
    Location:
    New York
    Xchemie likes this.
  6. pfettig77

    pfettig77 Been here awhile

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    Nov 24, 2017
    Oddometer:
    135
    Location:
    NW Wisconsin
  7. MNimum

    MNimum Been here awhile

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    Jan 4, 2015
    Oddometer:
    915
    Location:
    St. Paul, MN
    At least up for consideration of "worst" if nothing else. $3,500 might be worth investigating.

    I paid $4,364.69 for a stock used 2015 with 400 miles on at the end of 2016. Admittedly I was fortunate to find a dealer that didn't want to carry it through the winter.
    Im3Wheeln likes this.
  8. ArkieRider

    ArkieRider Been here awhile

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    Apr 29, 2013
    Oddometer:
    674
    Location:
    Greenbrier, Arkansas
    Not good for sure... but also in contention is the ad on here where a fella was asking like $18000 for a ‘14 Super Tenere Non ES..lol.
  9. turtlespeed

    turtlespeed Adventurer

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    Feb 15, 2016
    Oddometer:
    32
    Location:
    NJ
    is $5k for a 2018 with ~2k miles a good deal? the only extra is a top cases and a slip on exhaust?
  10. pfettig77

    pfettig77 Been here awhile

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    Nov 24, 2017
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    I almost feel like contacting him and letting him know that left over brand new ones are selling for just over $4,000. I wonder what he's thinking.
  11. pfettig77

    pfettig77 Been here awhile

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    PM'd ya.
  12. justdirtyfun

    justdirtyfun Been here awhile

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    Jun 6, 2009
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    758
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    Totally not happening at 7k!!

    My wife has a 2015 that came with Rally raid parts, Corbin seat and extended warranty for $3200. Like a year and half ago.
  13. Cruz

    Cruz Lost but laughing.

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    11,350
    Location:
    Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
    Great day for a ride, bike 6 years and 41,000 klms old, not even a loose nut or bolt. Pretty happy about that.
    _20190922_215423.JPG
  14. YukonC

    YukonC Adventurer

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    Dec 29, 2017
    Oddometer:
    22
    Location:
    Tukwila, WA
    I did a stupid thing. I removed the seat from my cb500x and then placed the key in the compartment under the seat. When I put the seat back on, I forgot to get the key first so now my key is locked under the seat. Is there a way to remove the seat without the key? I don't have spare, and it's a 2013 if that makes a difference.
  15. boothmoto

    boothmoto Adventurer

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    Sep 19, 2018
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    24
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    Western MA
    I have the same noise at 5k, also haven't been able to figure it out. I suspect it is a vibration between the radiator and the radiator fan housing. All the radiator and fan mounts are tight though.
  16. justdirtyfun

    justdirtyfun Been here awhile

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    Oh shit. That sounds rough.
  17. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Oh dear.

    Obviously the idea of having a lock on there is so you can't get the seat off without the key...

    The only thing I can think of is to see if you can get behind the left hand side panel near the lock and cut the cable with some pliers... slide (or strip a section) of the outer sleeve off, and pull the inner cable with some pliers to release the seat catch.

    You'll need to buy a new lock cable of course, but that is probably your only way?

    good luck...

    Jenny x

    note. if you can't get behind the side panel to access the cable, the only other thing would be to pry the lock assembly out of the plastic side panel, and/or pull the whole side panel off to release the cable. You'd write-off your side panel, but a replacement is only around $35.
    DeeEll likes this.
  18. fastnlight

    fastnlight Repeat Offender

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    Sep 25, 2007
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    394
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    Gig Harbor, WA
    If you can slide the end of a coat hanger wire (bent into a small hook) onto the space where the cable is exposed, you might be able to give it a tug and release it.
    DeeEll likes this.
  19. OHjim

    OHjim Been here awhile

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    Aug 12, 2009
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    Can you remove stuff or loosen enough to pry an opening from the underside to access?
  20. justdirtyfun

    justdirtyfun Been here awhile

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    St. James MO
    Or a locksmith.