Honda CB500X

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by JimmieA, Nov 12, 2012.

  1. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Yep, they are still around. I'm sure a call or email to Honda USA ought to reveal which dealers still have them in stock - if you tell them your location, they ought to be able to tell you which are the nearest dealers that still have inventory on the floor.

    Jx
  2. Swanster

    Swanster Never been here

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    I know of a chap selling his. It only has 275 miles on the clock. He has a lowered 2015 and says his wife feels safer on that than the 19
  3. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    So I've designed a few things.
    A full wrench set, containing 24, 19, 17, 14, 12, 10 (both closed and open end), 8, 6, spoke wrench (doubles as a bottle opener :-)
    All the bigger size spanners will be relieved at the corners (just as you see the 24 size right now) to provide a better grip on the bolts/nuts and avoid rounding them and also eliminate sharp corners what could theoretically start cracks.
    I can also add further holes along the stems to loose weight while retaining rigidity.
    The pairs are thought to work together:
    - Rear axle needs 19 on the bolt and 24 on the nut, and the 10-14 can be used as an extension lever (with a self supplied 10 mm allen key) to loosen the rear axle for chain adjustment or wheel removal.
    - 12-14 being separate so one can work on the oem chain adjusters
    - 14 and 17 are the two ends of the suspension linkage
    - I'm running spoked wheels on the X, so the tool has a wheel spoke spanner - which doubles as a bottle opener too ;-)
    - added a combination part to be able to hold 10-8 and 6 mm bolts which require relative low torque.
    - The 10 end of the 10-14 is open to allow adjustment of the gear linkage (might do the same with the 14 to be able to work on the mirror)
    - one can use an inexpensive and light hex tool with the 19 or 17 spanners to remove the front wheel.

    In case Solidworks calculates weight properly and I'm not screwing something up too much, these three cut from Stainless steeel would be about 220gr. If I'd cut the 24 size spanner from 8mm and the other two from 6mm AlMg3 alloy they should be only slightly heavier than 105 gr together.

    Edit: the weight calculations look way too optimistic to me. I guess that the calculated weights are for the heaviest part, so I'd say the whole set would be about 500gr for the SS, and roughly 240gr for the alloy ones.

    Also designed a special tool for the head bearing nut, as it would be more convenient if I could use my normal torque wrench to set proper bearing tension than just a plain spanner.
    Open to suggestions.

    Attached Files:

  4. rexelstar

    rexelstar Been here awhile

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    Found some oem old stock tools in the shed. XR type.

    Perhaps for some additional idea's ? IMG_1095.JPG

    For use of connecting the phillips/pozi screw driver(s) a 1/4" hole ?

    Attached Files:

  5. nbsdave

    nbsdave Been here awhile Supporter

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    good point
    mine did not come with a mouse though.
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  6. danster302

    danster302 n00b

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    Is it to late too get in on the wrench deal?
  7. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    Not late, just finalising the design.
  8. nbsdave

    nbsdave Been here awhile Supporter

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  9. swdirtrider

    swdirtrider Adventurer

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    I’m in for a set of tools as well!!!
  10. lesmeister

    lesmeister One of the OLD Farts Supporter

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    Also designed a special tool for the head bearing nut, as it would be more convenient if I could use my normal torque wrench to set proper bearing tension than just a plain spanner.
    Open to suggestions.[/QUOTE]
    •••••••••
    Like the head bearing nut tool idea, what size is the drive hole (3/8”, 1/2”).

    Also an excellent suggestion by ‘rexelstar’ to have a 1/4" hex drive hole to use the regularly available stock driver bits for all types of fasteners. This would allow much greater flexibility in making up a tool roll to carry on the bike.
  11. rexelstar

    rexelstar Been here awhile

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    Still thinking about the 1/4" hex hole, how to put any kind of force on the driver bits.

    Perhaps a sunken 1/4" hole?



    Not sure how to make thinks work..
  12. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    •••••••••
    Like the head bearing nut tool idea, what size is the drive hole (3/8”, 1/2”).

    Also an excellent suggestion by ‘rexelstar’ to have a 1/4" hex drive hole to use the regularly available stock driver bits for all types of fasteners. This would allow much greater flexibility in making up a tool roll to carry on the bike.[/QUOTE]

    At this point the steering stem bearing nut tool is planned for 1/2" drive as my 3/8 torque wrench goes only until 30Nm, so I use the larger for the job - but it is a breeze to redesign for different tool size.

    Indeed the 1/4 hex drive sofket is an excellent idea. It can also make a good second point to provide a better leverage with the extension lever.
  13. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    Attached Files:

  14. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    That extension on the 24 end for the 12 spanner surely looks good, and the 10 on the 17 could be a good idea also, but would not fit when working on the suspension linkage. Also the 19 could wear a 10 extension.

    Will probably run a restyling excercise on the spanners once again and see what fits.
  15. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    Done a quick redesign on the 10-14 spanner, and added two 1/4 drive holes too. one at the center, and one at one end for leverage.
    Made it as light as it is possible. I think I kinda like it.

    10-14-1_4.JPG


    I can redesign the 24-17 to also have the 1/4 drive holes at the same distance, so the lever can be extended by two 1/4 bits at hand.
    What do you think?
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  16. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    And the 24-17 in comparison to the 14-10.

    These two calculates to be 135gr together made from 5mm SS. I think it should be fine, and low enough weight

    24-14_14-10.JPG
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  17. rexelstar

    rexelstar Been here awhile

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    Great design!

    The 14-10 should do. The force on the driver bits is not that large I guess.

    I still find it lacks some kind off end stop (?) due to the needed force on the driver bit/tool..

    5 mm depth is a minimum to be 'solid' ?

    A small welded plate is (not) an option I guess? The design probably will not be aesthetic anymore...
    Perhaps a engraved 'cb500x' logo plate makes it more aesthetic;)
    It can be done by gluing a 1mm plate with the correct type Locktite .


    Second thought is tapping thread holes in the sidewall and add some 2.5mm bolt hex screws which fit in the groove off the longer type hex drivers?

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolt-Base-Stainless-Screws-Socket/dp/B00B3RJLJA

    But then again the tool will become weaker..
  18. lesmeister

    lesmeister One of the OLD Farts Supporter

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    If you have a 1/4" hex in each spanner you can stack both together and double the contact area on the bit.

    A 'U' shaped metal clip with a 10mm hole in one side would fit over the spanner at the 1/4" hex hole, with the other side solid the bit could not pass through the spanner and the clip would not fall off with the bit in place. Clip could be stored with the bits till needed. . . . . lesmeister
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  19. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    Yup, that's the plan, both spanners have the 1/4 holes at the same distance so they can be stacked.
    The clip is a great idea, a spring clip would be even better. I have no means to make them at the moment - will think about it.
    In the neantime I just thought to shorten the 1/4 part of some drive adapters, and the collar of those would simply allow to use them. Will try to get a few prototypes cut next week to test them and finalize the design.
    rexelstar likes this.
  20. rexelstar

    rexelstar Been here awhile

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    image.jpg image.jpg Should work fine with one of these bit drivers and give some extra grip.

    IMG_1109.JPG IMG_1110.JPG