Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by JimmieA, Nov 12, 2012.
Has anybody got experience of the Kriega OS-BASE on the CB500X?
I like the idea of having something easily removable that removes the need for fixed pannier mounts and all the associated weight. My concern is that the OS-BASE is designed for narrow seats on dualsport bikes. They have specific options for the T7 and KTM790 that are wider so I am wondering if anybody has had success.
The Mosko Moto Reckless 80 would be ideal, you get what you pay for but it is considerably more expensive.
This is what I have been looking at from Rocky Mountain.
This is very much like the Mosko Moto Reckless but much less expensive.
Have anyone tried this yet?
Yep, got one, used it now quite a bit, made some modifications to suit the CB500X, really like it.
I found that you need to remove the grab rails in order for the Highland's to fit properly. If you don't, you can still use them, but the fit isn't great.
I'll edit this post, or add another one, once I take some pictures of the mods I made to the strapping system to make them easier to mount.
I've got four multi-day trips on them now, removing and mounting them daily. I've ridden in the rain, my stuff stayed dry and so far I'm 100% pleased with them. A lifelong hard pannier guy, these things really surprised me. For my needs now, they are the perfect fit.
It's time for tires again on my 2016 CB
Original were replaced with Michelin Road 5"s because of cut tires and had to get replacements on the road. Looking to try a different brand
my riding is 95% on pavement, 5% gravel. no mud, no sand.
Recommend me a set of tires, thanks :)
I know there's been talk in here about them, but I couldn't find it. So... my girlfriend has a 2017 CB500X and we're going to put on a protaper bar, barkbusters and heated grips. But I don't know if we should go with the Oxfords or the Honda OEM? And if the Oxfords, has anyone wired them into a spare fuse? I hate having pigtails off the battery.
I posted this on the other CBX site. I’ve since installed my ancient (from Eastern Beaver) Centech, switched power, fuse box under the seat for the heated grips and Montana GPS. The battery only has a pigtail for a battery maintainer and the fuse box attached. I have a 2018 ABS.
Additional advice: Use proper grip glue, the Oxford glue didn’t last, and I don’t use the heated grips all that often.
I went oem. Yes, more expensive, but I dont have another box attached to the handlebars, all the wiring is factory to the accessory plug (only on when the key is on) and overall very clean look. They work great, but from what I have heard, functionality is about the same between the two.
Thanks! I use a CENTECH fuse box on my BSA, and love them. Is any part ran through the ignition switch? I've heard the new Oxfords cut out automatically, but... do they?
They do cut off automatically. The idiot lights are a bright enough reminder.
Now I’m going crazy... I installed these grips a while ago, so I’d need to double check to see if they’re on the Centech or the battery. :)
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately we don't have a Tusk reseller in Europe / UK, but looking at the fit to your bike I might consider going through the hassle of importing a set.
More pictures and details of how you modified the strapping system would be appreciated. The grab rails and passenger foot pegs are already removed from my bike.
I guess I lied, I've just checked under the seat.
I have the heated grips attached directly to the battery, as well as a pigtail for a maintainer.
The Centech (obviously conected to the battery) has a switched capability to the GPS and a second pigtail that pokes out near the rear of the bike for on-the-road cellphone charging. I don't navigate by phone.
I used to carry a lot of tools under the seat (dremel'd out some of the excess plastic to make space), but found that approach inconvenient once I had luggage on the bike, so went back to using the space for the Centech and just some X-specific tools under the seat, such as wheel removal, PivotPegz spares, and a few other etceteras. I have a complete toolkit that I swap between bikes as the need arises.
The wires in the photo looks a lot messier than reality...
The 500x has an ignition switched accessory lead in the dash. There is also one under the seat. I have my oem heated grips attached to the dash one, and my hardwired gps and accessory power panel hooked up to the one on the seat. I never trust anything hooked directly to the battery not to have parasitic drain. I have way too many toys to deal with 20+ battery tenders (and that is not an exaggeration lol).
Its been a bit since it did all that wiring, so I cant tell you what wires or how I did it, but I found all the info online pretty easy at the time I did it, so a few searches and it should turn up
I used the under-seat connection for a while, but decided on a fuse box instead. Not as neat, but I haven’t had a problem with parasitic draw - the old fuse box on my X has been problem free on at least half a dozen other bikes, and I hope that troubleshooting any problems under the bike seat in the middle of nowhere on a 90 degree day will be easier for my limited electrical skills, should the need arise... but everything has worked so far without a problem, There, I’ve jinxed it. :)
Pity you don’t have links or photos.
For years and several bikes I've used an Eastern Beaver Power Center 8 on my bikes and it's worked great. But with the 5X I found that it took to much room under the seat for my for my taste. So I tried the Eastern Beaver 4 Circuit Solution http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/4_Circuit/4_circuit.html.
A work in progress
Finished and cleaned up.
While the fuse box is a good solution and the factory aux connectors are good if you only have two items to fuse, you might want to look at the "Circuit Solutions" options out of Eastern Beaver. I found that they gave me flexibility in my mounting and when cleaned up and secured they don't take a lot of space.
If anyone is interested, my 2020 CB500X came with these Koso Apollo heated grips installed. Work very well and a very tidy install with no bulky controller
Nice install, I have the 3 circuit solution on my CB500x, it was taken from my Super Sherpa when I sold it. Eastern Beaver has a lot of great products.
Just to finish this off, I wanted to add a couple of modifications that I've made. They are easy to do and, for me at least, make these panniers more user friendly and might increase their lifespan.
Since I bought the panniers, I have purchased a Corbin saddle. The stock seat has no trim ring around the edge and the panniers fit just fine. With the Corbin, they fit fine as well, but I reckon that eventually they will rub that silver ring and disfigure it. I can hear the groans now..
Simple fix, throw a saddle blanket on it.
The next mod is to the rear strapping set-up. As you can see, the three rear straps give you some flexibility as to what you want to strap to. As Tusk says, you do need a top plate, I have a T-Rex.
In my application the straps run better if I go under the top plate.
The T-Rex has pretty sharp edges on all the slots. I was concerned that running my straps through the slots would eventually cause them to wear to the point that I could get a failure or cut at the plate edges. Hence the sacrificial rope.
Ropes and straps under the plate. I just leave the rope on there all the time, it's no big deal.
Rear secured, straps out of the way.
Now these front straps I really found to be a pain in the ass. Tusk designs them for maximum mounting flexibility and they do seem durable. Basically you can loop the strap around whatever you want to.
BUT, I found this little metal clip to be terrible. It's strong enough to be sure, but under ideal conditions (I'm an old guy now ) it's difficult to use and when it's dark even harder. If your fingers are cold, hard again and if it's dark and cold you'll be swearin like ten mf's.
My solution was to put a male clip on the loop, thereby eliminating the need to ever take the strap tail out of the metal clip. Just adjust as needed.
For the other end of the clip set-up, I used the female end on a nylon loop that allows me to mount it as needed. The knot in the middle is to shorten the loop, I made it a little to long.
Looped and ready to connect
Front straps ready to go
Now the mounting process takes just a minute or two, easily done in the dark and is plenty strong. Of course the blue loop is removed when the panniers are off the bike.
Well, I hope these tips might help somebody if you buy these Tusk Highlanders. I'm very happy with them.
I love the way you think, nice job
Snow foamed, washed, dried with new drier and then covered in ACF50 ready for the winter