HONDA CRF250 RALLY OWNERS

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by ferdiepick, Mar 18, 2017.

  1. Radelaide

    Radelaide Adventurer

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    45
  2. Antonius Block

    Antonius Block Adventurer

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    Is there anyone using Conti TKC80's?
  3. Scoobydidler

    Scoobydidler Been here awhile

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    I'd rather ride with no tyres, don't do it. Expensive, crap off road, there are loads of alternatives that work, cost less and last longer.

    Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
    Cutter16 likes this.
  4. 1litre

    1litre In over my head

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    Mar 15, 2016
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    Orangeville, Ontario, Canada
    I was looking into putting Oxfords on my AT and my Rally. Around here that will run me about $125.00 CAD each plus tax. I have also been looking at battery powered heated gloves and wired heated gloves that come in around the $250.00 CAD price. thinking these might be a better option as I can take them from bike to bike and even on the XRs when we're kicking it old school up north. I love my heated vest that I've had for 10 years now and have always kicked my self for not getting the matching gloves at the same time. has anyone used the HELD or Power In Motion battery heated gloves? I think i'm leaning toward the Power In Motion gloves as they are Canadian made and there is a distributer a block from my work.
  5. docgonzo

    docgonzo Old Gadfly

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    My 2 cents. I have the Oxfords on my AT, and they are spectacular. Best feature is the ease of installment. You just wire them to your battery. They have an automatic shut-off so they don't have to be wired to ignition. And easy to use control panel with 6 settings.
    Wired heated gloves are a pain in the ass. More wires. More plugs. More connections to go wrong.
    Battery gloves need batteries or re-charging. Again, a pain in the ass. "HotHands" chemical packs work just as well.

    p.s., when the temperatures get below 32 degrees, none of these options work that well alone. I often supplement the heated Oxford grips with a "HotHands" chemical pack in each glove. And wind protection via HippoHands.
  6. 1litre

    1litre In over my head

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    @docgonzo the rechargeable gloves are good for eight hours. I really only need them for morning commutes (1 hour) and cold weather rides which are never all day long rides anyways. Cold is always a supplemented thing anyway. Hence the heated gloves.
  7. webbiker

    webbiker Been here awhile

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    I bought a pair to test if they would do the trick. Mine were chinese, but based on my experiences the idea works. With high end gloves even better I assume.
    1litre likes this.
  8. Ed@Ford

    Ed@Ford Long timer

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    I have had oxfords on numerous bikes and they are great....BUT make sure they have the most recent controller (V-8). Also the glue provided is superglue....nasty shit as you get ONE change to get them on right...I have ruined grips when the glue set up half on. Use a 5 minute epoxy that is good for over 300F....a much better choice...by Locktite I think...shop well as there are 212F epoxy out there....not good enough. I would think canadian made snowmobile oriented heated glove providers would understand severe cold usage
    1litre likes this.
  9. 1litre

    1litre In over my head

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    I figure I have multiple bikes and would like to have heated grips on two. that puts me in the same price range as the lithium battery heated gloves. the one i'm swaying towards is more of a glove liner. Or there is the Helds that are for sale 50% off at this time.
  10. Hltoppr

    Hltoppr El Gringo Spectacular

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    Northern Arizona
    Wolfman Enduro Dry, without liners. Also using a rear rack from Dirt Bagz. Both worked great... the rear left tool box flexes though.

    -H-
    Radelaide likes this.
  11. Hltoppr

    Hltoppr El Gringo Spectacular

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    My riding is decent in mild sand, but this was deep! Just couldn't get on top of it before hitting a rut or a tank slapper!

    Mid day... hot... my girlfriend and I were happy to finally hit hardpack!

    -H-
  12. leevil

    leevil Adventurer

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    May 28, 2017
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    I just put the Tusk side and rear racks on last weekend. They are great! A little heavy, but they are really well built and have a nice fit. I originally tried the side racks from Bikerzbits and was not happy with them at all. They seemed pretty good, but the bar that connects the two sides goes up and under the rear fender. You take one hard hit and the rear tire hits the bar. Needless to say, the tire grabbed the bar, pulled and twisted it forward, tweaked all of the racks, it was a real mess. These new Tusk ones are MUCH BETTER! You say you want soft luggage. There are lots of options that don't need pannier racks at all. Mosko Moto, Giant Loop, Nelson Rigg-to name a few. I went with the Mosko Moto Scout 25 Pannier set. The only downside of this set up is the Rally is already a wide bike, but with the racks and the side bags (I also have a rotopax on each side) it feels like I'm as wide as a bus. As far as the fork and shock upgrades, I did them both. I highly suggest you get them done as well, especially if you want to carry any luggage. I added the Race Tech front spring kit and swapped out the rear spring for a Race Tech one. Oh yea, regarding the tool box, I just removed my Rally tool box altogether. Once these side racks are on, you have no access to the tool box without removing the racks. I removed mine and stuck a tool tube there in it's place. I really wanted to get the rotopax on the inside of the rack, but it just wasn't practical with my setup.
    jonnylikesvtwins likes this.
  13. Ed@Ford

    Ed@Ford Long timer

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    LEEVIL: Good info on racks. Did you do the fork work he did in the video on post #4809? Did you change the shock spring yourself?
  14. leevil

    leevil Adventurer

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    Ed@Ford: Hi there! I just watched that Rocky Mountain video of the Race Tech front fork kit about an hour ago. I did not do the work myself, but that is exactly what was done. I'll do a lot of minor things (some would say the spring and shock are minor), but I figured a professional would do a better job than me. I shared the information that HeidiHo posted on here with my mechanic, but the Race Tech spring kit came with the same instructions. The rear shock was a bit of a hassle. I was on the phone with Race Tech quite a few times. First figuring out what spring rate would be good for me. I didn't want the spring to be too hard when I wasn't fully loaded and I didn't want it to be too soft when I had all of my gear with me. We decided the 7.6 would be a good choice somewhere in the middle. I was assured that the Rear Spring would just be a direct swap, but sadly it wasn't. My mechanic said there was no way the spring was going to work without fabricating some kind of spacer because it was much shorter than the original. Race Tech continued to say it was a direct swap and offered to fit the spring on the shock for me if I brought it to them. As soon as they saw it, they acknowledged that it would not fit and they ended up making a spacer/collar for me. When you purchase a spring for the Rally now, it comes with a spacer/collar :)
  15. minkyhead

    minkyhead Long timer

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    all done and tacho working fine now ..thanks for the info :drink
    dsanchez31, rally bob and Noisytim like this.
  16. Kevingrahambutler

    Kevingrahambutler Low rider

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    Location:
    Sunderland, England
    I used them on my bmw gs1200 and 1150 I found them very good on the large trail bikes, they were tubless, when first wet on ground they were a bit loose, stiff side walls made them my choice as I never ran pressures lower the 24 psi, I have them on my xt600 they are ok not as good as been on the larger trail bikes, I do a lot of touring with trails in between so suited me, I would say that there are much better tyre choices for the rally, for me as I plan to do a few thousand mile round trip to get to Morocco I would go with the mitas tyre but me been a tight arse I’m going to use the tyres that came with the bike till they a done.
  17. Ed@Ford

    Ed@Ford Long timer

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    Noisytim: I did some looking. CB250F is rated at 29PS @ 9000 RPM....29PS converts to 28.6 horsepower. The CRF Rally horsepower is not quoted in the USA, but in the UK it's rated at 18.2kW @ 8500...converting KW to horsepower of 24.4. So...my findings indicate a CB250F ECU is worth 4 horsepower! Also, CB250F has the same or lower compression than the Rally...so it's a pretty safe bet regular fuel will be fine....soooo, this ECU is a more economical performance improver than EJK.
  18. Neil_The_Wheel

    Neil_The_Wheel Long timer

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    Congrats on the new to you Rally! It is an excellent mini ADV bike.

    I installed dirtracks.com side racks and DrySpec D20 saddlebags. This setup is light, gives 40 Liters of pannier space and the D20 saddlebags are narrow profile so the whole bike will fit in the width of the handlebars. Some pics below.

    Given your weight and desire to run some luggage, I would think that you are going to need some suspension upgrades. The Rear shock will be undersprung and underdamped for your weight + luggage. Many options for suspension upgrades now.

    Happy Trails.

    HondaRallyDrySpec.jpg HondaRallyDrySpec2.jpg HondaRallyDrySpec3.jpg
  19. jonnylikesvtwins

    jonnylikesvtwins Have I learned anything yet?

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    So, I just want to be 100%certain that I understand...Swapping this ECU will immediately give me more power & a more responsive throttle? Were any other modifications required (other than the moving of the wire from 23 to 7)? Airbox modification? Aftermarket exhaust?
    If so, THIS IS HUGE!!!!!!
    Noisytim likes this.
  20. jonnylikesvtwins

    jonnylikesvtwins Have I learned anything yet?

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    Thanks Leevil!!