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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by ferdiepick, Mar 18, 2017.
off ebay 80 quid ...ive looked and its not listed at the moment ,,so i have no link ..sorry
Or there's a similar one in black. I have this one. Solid as.
They also have a nice looking stainless one in a thick wire minimalist style.
ahh they are different so the post idid a while back about the spring is missleading
the spring pins are much longer on the rally and the kick stand does hold up with no problems on rough ground ..
the 250l stand gave me bad problems with the stand comming down on bigger jolts and even enough to cut the ignition ..it looks like the rallys is a good bit longer
and thats good ..hopfully the 2017 L stand has improved spring points too
its easy enough to make a new spring point on the stand simply drill and put a bolt though with two locknots ...if your going to weld the spring point back on
id go as far to say
why not just cut the rally stand and weld the foot back on or even a new one ?..seems a cheap easy solution and fine tuned to your bikes height
if it has the short spring points deffo retain the rally spring and defo dont fit a 250l spring to the new stand
here is what i had to do to make the 250l stand safe ..a much stronger spring ..and relocating the spring point much further down with a bolt ..you can see the old one that i cut off several inches further up
it took about an hour to cut weld a 2in extension on and move the spring point
anyway if you fit a L stand retain the rally spring and attachment points
and stop falling out ..its a sidestand ferchissakes
DSC_0419 by minkyhead56, on Flickr
off ebay 80 quid ...ive looked and its not listed at the moment ,,so i have no link ..sorry[/QUOTE]
Minky, I bought the CRFL stand and springs (which are an inch shorter) to direct swap over. The thought of cutting and welding on a brand new motorcycle makes my stomach turn. Plus, if we need to lift the motorcycle back up eventually I want to have all the stock parts to do so.
I've re-ordered the correct parts from a 2017 CRFL and will try again once they arrive.
he he ... i dont worry about such stuff ..to be fair if its done neatly and sprayed over no one would notice
..anyway i understand your reasons ..but do retain the spring off the rally and the fixing points ..the old 250l stand is pretty dam dangerous when it starts sagging could easy dig in and pitch you off it is not up to big hits cuts the ignition and sags like a witches tit on rough ground hopfully the 2017 will have the improved attachment points and spring setup
I have a stupid question, sorry. How do I remove the front wheel? There doesn't seem to be a nut. Do I need a special tool?
I was wondering the same thing yesterday when I was going over my tool kit for the bike. Looks like I have to make a trip to Home Depot to get the correct "allen"....
2 pinch bolts and a 14mm Hex wrench (got mine from Amazon for $9). Motion Pro has a multi hex axle tool but I haven't seen it in 14mm.
Whew. That doesn't sound fun at all! I put something like 10,000 miles on our original CRFL and never had any issues. Wonder if that's why they revised the part numbers for 2017.
I'm sorry haven't been on the site in days and after I've seen your post I just realized I don't have any new pictures it's time for me to get with it I guess
Only you shorter riders oh I'm not that tall either I should shut up!
Spent the weekend repairing my front end after a fall in Moab. Used this opportunity to convert to LED flashers and tail light.
Fun fact, the entire dash is held up via this bent part:
If you have any questions about the LED conversion, or how to fix this frontend. Let me know.
Got to do a little of this over the weekend:
This is what the bike was made for. I've decided the soft suspension is perfectly good, if you're blasting back roads.
What did you do to get that kind of damage? And more importantly, you alright?
Took a fall on the Slick Rock trail in Moab. Bike was more than capable, I was not. Fell to the right side and broke the flasher (hence the upgrade to LED) and bent this bracket. I was physically unhurt and continued to ride the bike for another week.
EDIT: Just to add more detail, the fall happened at a very steep decline, with a swtichback halfway down. I was letting 1st gear pull me down and thought I was going too fast to make the turn (I probably wasn't) however if I was I would have dropped 50ft. This resulted in me hitting the brakes which equals instant fall as there is no way to get your feet down. Slick Rock is more like sandpaper, tons of traction. The bike fell on the right side but there was a decline so it probably hit with an additional 3 feet. Had barkbusters on and those protected everything. All in all, I think the bike actually took that damage really well. Nothing permanent or structural to the main frame.
Any damage to the plastics? And how did you fix the front?
there are parts available for the front lights on bikerzbits
Tip for the budget minded d.i.y. people. A company called Nawa makes boat accessories and has this rugged plastic mount that happens to fit very well for the dash cross bar. The part is under $10 and I've used the 32mm version on my previous bike with success.
The part (ss bolts&nuts)
My first test application
More details : https://honda250rally.com/2017/06/05/cleaner-better-gps-phone-mounts-for-the-250-rally/
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