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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by ferdiepick, Mar 18, 2017.
Last I looked the headlight assembly for a Rally was OVER $US 600
RILEY-RALLY: My 2013 CRF250L burned zero oil between 5000 mile oil changes. My 2017 Rally consumed a couple ounces in 2800 miles....and it is at 5000 total miles...so by comparison....a big difference
Any recommendations for a safe trigger wire for a relay to go off of?
Yea, I run this bike hard so I am going to continue to monitor and figure out how much its going through. Probably do a compression test today, make sure thats ok. No blow by when I pull that cap though so I dont think it's rings.
Does anyone with a manual know the compression for this bike?
The oil on the front of the case below the exhaust baffles me... cleaned it off, we'll see if it comes back...
better to buy it directly from Thailand , Super-Bikers and bikerzbits have it for less than 300$ , need to add shipping and a bit of taxes.
Is the engine mount bolt tight? If not oil can leak out of there, mine did
Saw one on ebay for ~400, will see what the dealer says first... for the whole “package” :)
It's in the User Manual - 10.7:1
Yeah, the screen is pretty robust. I once hit a mini bus that did a uturn in front of me - screen scratched but intact. headlight lens and black plastics cracked in several places. the metal structure that holds everything in place was totally deformed where it connects to the frame and apparently absorbed most of the impact. Quite well designed if you ask me.
Luckily my lights were still working so I just sealed the cracks with silicone...
That looks fantastic, I saw in another thread that you met up with RTW Paul
I fitted the SE CR Hi, much better position than the stock bars
Am I the only one who feels like the pegs are too far forward to make standing up comfortable? I am pretty short so I don’t think it is bar height.
Leaving for NW Arkansas tomorrow! Gonna try the Rally out on a week long trip; Falling Leaf Rally this weekend, Glade Top Trail, then stay in the Oark/Turner's Bend area the rest of the week with 3 other guys I've been riding with for years - It should be a good time.
Initial packing Job! - I need to pare this down a bit for the next time.
Did a 5 mile testride fully loaded today and I think she's good to go
The service manual for '13-16 says 188psi (no service limit) so I'd say around that. 10.7:1 compression ratio.
Mine is starting to seep in exactly the same place!! I've not lost a noticeable amount of oil on the sight glass but I keep wiping it away from the engine mount area. It has also developed more vibration over the miles. I'm up to 12k now. Hoping like others said and its just a loose engine mount. I was going to take it to the dealer to have it fixed under warranty because I thought it was a seal but I may try to tighten the engine mount first to see if that helps once I take it in for the season in a month or so.
When your bike is still under warranty, just bring him to the dealer. Don't do enything by yourselve.
You're not the only one.
Here the same "problem".
When I stay up on my AT, it is just perfect.
When I stay up on my Rally, it feels not good. Not in balance, not comfortable. That is the only downside on the Rally.
I have to hold the handles very hard otherwise I fall backwards. I have to bend over, but I am still not in a good position.
I'm pretty short to. 165cm.
Adding some 30mm bar risers is it still tighten the front bolts completely then the rears to an unk tq?
Mine told me to do the fronts to the specified torque followed by the rears to the same torque.
As to the peg position, I used Vario bar risers which allowed me to go up and forward with the bars (rather than up and back which non vario types do) which made things better.
Did it give the specified tq value I haven’t found it in the Manuel