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HONDA CRF250 RALLY OWNERS

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by ferdiepick, Mar 18, 2017.

  1. RockyDS

    RockyDS Lost in the wilderness

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,209
    Location:
    Canadian Rockies.
    I assume you mean the Camel-ADV system which is $429 USD. Good system but not worth the expense for me.

    The other photo is deceptive (not very well packed that day) - the load on my bike is Rigg soft dualsport bags with a Firstgear dry bag across the top. Neither have to be removed to access the extra fuel.

    dscn0069.jpg

    I understand the idea of emptying the spare fuel asap but then you have no spare fuel, so I will stop for gas, top up the main tank and just keep my reserve intact. Having that extra fuel either on the rear rack or in the main tank makes very little difference to me. Some of the places I've ridden gas stations can be 400 kms apart and I've had to use the extra fuel but if there's a gas station somewhere ahead I wouldn't bother wasting my time stopping to transfer fuel. YMMV. :ricky
  2. twaldron

    twaldron Dudeman

    Joined:
    May 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    549
    Location:
    Dallas, TX
    Yes, Camel. Had Camelback water bladders on the brain. Yes they are too much coin for me too. Not sure why aux tanks are generally so expensive.
    RockyDS likes this.
  3. heirhead

    heirhead worlds worst mechanic

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,389
    Location:
    On the water in South OC
    Hello,

    I know the conversation on tires is the same about oil, BUT the guy who crashes a lot has tires that are kaput or wrong for that ride.
    Get on the interstate Ben Stone!! Quote from Doc Hollywood.
    My .02

    hh
    wwm
  4. Nick MN

    Nick MN Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Oddometer:
    881
    Location:
    USA - Minnesota
    I've only been ridding 10 years (+50k mi.) with 4 bikes under my belt. I do my own tire changes and tried trash to top tier tires. Usually the more I spend the more I expect which can lead to disappointment. These stock IRC's perform so well for me in northern MN (USA) I bought another set for sub $100 USD shipped. My 2019 Rally non-abs just does so well with these tires (cost & performance)! I'm a big TKC80, Mitas E07, Shinko 705 fan but damn for Mn, USA these IRC GP21/22 tires do well. Flame me all you want but my Rally has been in every extream I can travel to within a few states of Mn and have yet to be limited by tire selection.
    JungleDeath and hookeniggy like this.
  5. Rx4Pain

    Rx4Pain Do something... even if it's wrong.

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    194
    Location:
    WA

    I have been thru two sets in 7000 miles. No complaints either.

    They are a softer tire/compound but I’d rather have the grip and replace them more often. (Ie: Pirelli MT-21 etc)

    I think most tires that come “stock” .... seem to get bashed. I like my IRC’s, but I have not pushed them hard off road yet. The trails and dirt I’ve ridden on with the IRC’s, showed them to be at least....reasonably competent.

    Ken
    JungleDeath and Nick MN like this.
  6. Swamper

    Swamper Been Nowhere Done Nothing

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2003
    Oddometer:
    820
    Location:
    Nor-Cal, Nevada City
    Tires are subjective, for me it really depends what and were the ride is going to be and the conditions. Personally I want the more off road oriented type tire where the IRC OEM tire just didn't suit my needs. I found the Dunlop 606's worked the best on my Rally so far. I just changed tires to trying the MT 21's with the heavier tubes and rim-locks. I found the knobby tire feel and handle fine on the highway but the highway tires don't work in the rough off road stuff.
    JungleDeath likes this.
  7. Phmode

    Phmode Most of the gear, little idea!

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2018
    Oddometer:
    847
    Location:
    Herefordshire, UK
    Nothing to do with Rally's per se, but all to do with increasing the performance of your little bike.

    There have been a number of posts recently where folks are saying they are overweight and that losing some would be the cheapest/easiest way to increase the bhp/ton of the Rally.

    I have lost 10Kgs (22lbs or 1.5 stone) in the last 10 weeks and this is the easiest way I know of doing it, short of chopping off your own head...and I spent £280 on a new silencer to save 2-3Kgs!!!

    Now this doesn't work for everyone, my girlfriend has no joy whatsoever with this 'diet', but three biking friends all tried it and had great results and as I refuse to 'watch what I eat' or 'count calories' or do all that 'portion control' stuff, when I first heard about this I found it hard to believe it could work.

    It is known variously as the 'Fast' diet or the '5-2' diet, but really it isn't a diet in the normal sense of the word and it is 'fast' as in going without food, not 'fast' as in quick. But I think it is very quick and you don't really go without food.

    For five days of the week you can eat whatever you like, junk, steaks and salads, beer and pretzels, cheese and wine, it makes no difference, AND eat as much of it as you like.

    BUT, for two, non-consecutive days of the week you eat no more than 600 calories per day for men, 450 for women. Simples! The 600 calories can be anything you like. Before now I have had a bottle of red and a chunk of cheese. But no cheating and ordering five pizzas at five past midnight.

    My 'normal' fast day I only get 450 calories because I refuse to give up full-fat milk in my tea and that accounts for 150 calories. But it stops me killing people who speak to me.

    This is an easy 'diet' for me because I rarely eat before supper apart from a nasty habit of scoffing biscuits with my tea and that is 9 pints a day...

    I normally have a tin of tuna in olive oil and some bits and bobs to go with it but YMMV. I refuse to count calories as I eat, so 7 years ago when I first did this and lost 13 Kgs in 15 weeks I simply raided the store cupboard and looked at what I always had in and tins of tuna were the obvious choice. I can have that and half a can of baked beans and still come in under 450 calories.

    Of course, if you live in a house with a manic cook who makes enough to feed the five thousand each day then you are going to struggle but for most folks, this is the easiest 'diet' of all.

    You will know in the first week or so if it is working for you or not. If it doesn't, you are on your own. I lose an average of a kilo a week but I only weigh myself on the morning of the day after the second fast day and then only after normal ablutions etc. but really, your waist belt will tell you if it is working for you.

    When you have lost what you want to lose, or get bored or stop losing weight, you just stop and in my case the weight stays off for years but you can go down to a maintenance regime of 1 day a week if you need to.

    I'm back to eating 'normally' for the last week or so and notice I am eating less and have a whole new wardrobe of trousers I haven't been able to get into for the last three years, but most of them are flares...

    Performance gain per £/$/€/¥ spent is the most dramatic you will see on our little 250, believe me.
    JungleDeath, hookeniggy and RockyDS like this.
  8. RockyDS

    RockyDS Lost in the wilderness

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,209
    Location:
    Canadian Rockies.
    Sounds good.
    JungleDeath likes this.
  9. xtbiker

    xtbiker Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2014
    Oddometer:
    29
    I watched the video :-).
    Reminds me the time before my Rally. The bigger the bike the bigger pain. Especially with that alu panniers it is even more dangerous.
    I never missed anything from big bikes when I am offroad
    JungleDeath and Swamper like this.
  10. heirhead

    heirhead worlds worst mechanic

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,389
    Location:
    On the water in South OC
    Hello,
    Change of topic, can't go thru old pages.
    On lowering the Rally?
    Without going the $1,200 RaceTech way.
    Drill shock and lower,
    lowering link,
    Lower seat,
    Raise forks,

    Anyone done all of these together and/or more?
    If so seat height please.

    Thanks much,

    hh
    wwm
  11. Phmode

    Phmode Most of the gear, little idea!

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2018
    Oddometer:
    847
    Location:
    Herefordshire, UK
    We do have a search function for the lazy
    We do have a search function for the lazy at heart...

    Or buy a YSS (search for it...) and screw in the upper eye.
    OneAUout, heirhead and Fitz Fortune like this.
  12. heirhead

    heirhead worlds worst mechanic

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,389
    Location:
    On the water in South OC
    Hello,
    Old. tired, beat up, but NEVER lazy!
    Tried search, nada! Tried just now, tons.
    Pilot error,
    Thanks much,

    hh
    wwm
  13. Pilomajajo

    Pilomajajo Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2019
    Oddometer:
    74
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Jap ECU install troubles..

    Hi, was fortunate enough to buy an ecu from a fellow thread member. Worth mentioning: it's a more recent ecu than the 'J01'. Seller assured me same functionality.

    No way I could get the pin out position 23 so decided to go with the proven Phmode option. Brian was kind enough to send me some ready crimped pins!!

    Finding on the test ride with the ecu - no pins swapped: YEAH! No more performance gap between 1 & 2; much better acceleration. More spirited. Of course no tach and strangely: engine keeps running when I put the side stand down in gear. She won't start however when in gear.

    Time for the swap then to address these minor glitches. As I mentioned: no way I could get the pin out of 23... However, somehow I cannot seem to get the Phmode pin in far enough to make contact with the ecu pins. Believe me, I tried. My best guess up to now: somehow the ' tunnel' in position 7 of my connector is not up to spec.

    I've tried a thinner wire; same problem. So I can't determine if the pin swap from 23 to 7 will actually solve the tach (and side stand) issue.

    For those who have swapped: do you remember which way up that pin is supposed to go? Tried both ways, but am willing to give the correct way (as per forum dictate;) another go.

    IMG_7879.jpg IMG_7880.jpg
  14. Phmode

    Phmode Most of the gear, little idea!

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2018
    Oddometer:
    847
    Location:
    Herefordshire, UK
    I would add, upgrading the rear end to anything 'better' than the OEM shock will stop the bike sinking into the mud or tar when you sit on it. The OEM shock is so soft the static sag is measured in feet, not inches. So beware, if you want a lower back end then Ed@Ford has been down this route and his experiences are way more relevant than mine as I have 33" inside leg...
  15. Phmode

    Phmode Most of the gear, little idea!

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2018
    Oddometer:
    847
    Location:
    Herefordshire, UK
    Hi J-J. I can't remember whether I mentioned in one of my pm's that my sidestand switch works 'normally' with the Jap ECU installed.
  16. Pilomajajo

    Pilomajajo Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2019
    Oddometer:
    74
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Small update on the Jap ECU

    Was able to feed a thin wire through hole 7 of the connector. Stripped it, pulled it back a bit, put the jap ecu in place: and yes!! Tach is working just fine.
    Sidestandswitch however will still not kill the engine when in gear and putting the stand down. Not a very big deal to me. And yes; I think you did mention it Brian.

    Went for a ride; and boy, I really like how this ecu brings the bike to life.
    However, not sure if I will keep that ecu if I cannot install that pin properly.

  17. Phmode

    Phmode Most of the gear, little idea!

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2018
    Oddometer:
    847
    Location:
    Herefordshire, UK
    In the week, I'll try putting one of my pins in the spare connector shell. It doesn't matter if it gets stuck as I don't need the shell. At least that will tell us which way the pin goes in and how much force I have to give it. Mine was easy-peasy but that doesn't help you. I'll report back.
  18. Scutty

    Scutty Talent-limited bike builder and rider Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    739
    Location:
    Sunny Surrey, UK
    If you take the cover of the other side of the connector (carefully), you will see the access hole for the pin extraction tool, that will tell you which way up the pin goes (the 2 little barbs face to the access hole). I have swapped 4 of them over 2 bikes (although my mate seems to have the knack for pin extraction, it takes me ages even with the right tool).
    Pilomajajo likes this.
  19. Phmode

    Phmode Most of the gear, little idea!

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2018
    Oddometer:
    847
    Location:
    Herefordshire, UK
    OK J-J, I eventually managed to fit and remove a pin on a thin wire into a couple of the holes on my spare connector shell and now feel I could do it for real on my bike, despite trying for days with no success when I first got the ECU.

    Your first photo in this post shows the pin the correct way up. Your second photo shows it the wrong way up.

    This is the correct way up (with me having pulled the wire out of the pin :( )
    5F00E0F5-C753-4821-ACBD-72C7BC0CE78D.jpeg

    And this the right way up from a different angle.
    49AAA6F3-9789-4F42-B7F5-E7DC1DC3F3AD.jpeg

    The pin went into the waterproof insert in the connector very easily just using the wire to push it and with the whole of the pin going inside the connector shell. However, to get it to seat fully and lock in place, I had to chase it in with a watchmakers screwdriver pushing on the crimp around the insulation and that took more force than I remember using when I did mine.

    I found that even with the thin wire, I had to close up the crimp around the insulation (much tighter than my tool would get it) using pin nosed pliers and also had to make sure it was round and not 'squished'. I notice that your crimp onto the red wire insulation is not very tight and this will stop it sliding in properly as the holes in the shell are a very tight fit and don't like hand-crimped pins.

    To remove the pin of course, I had to remove the shell cover from the ECU side of the connector shell which is fiddly but not as daunting as it looks at first glance.

    6EE0A558-5F0C-4484-AA1A-6ECB2C8784FB.jpeg
    You won't need to remove this cover as you are merely inserting a pin and (hopefully) not having to remove it.

    This should get your pin inserted correctly and locked in place. However, if you (or anyone else) do need to remove a pin you must first prise open the snap clips on a couple of the sides of the connecter while pressing the cover away from the connector. Once a couple have been opened it is fairly easy to get the rest open and the cover off.

    With the cover off and working from the ECU side of the connector, you will need a needle or watchmakers screwdriver to insert into the wide slot beneath the pin you are trying to remove. I then needed a second screwdriver, my smallest, inserted into the pin itself (remember it is really a 'socket' we are talking about) and by pushing both through at once the pin will slide backward and can be withdrawn from the wire side of the connector.

    Hope this helps. Give me a call if you are stuck.
    Pilomajajo and Noisytim like this.
  20. khemist

    khemist Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2018
    Oddometer:
    101
    Location:
    Scotland, UK
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    No longer have my rally, i sold it on last year but snapped a couple of pics before it was gone.

    I'll be returning to a dual sport after my current naked bike.

    Attached Files:

    Nick MN and Tritwin like this.