Honda CRF500L Owners

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by Scutty, Apr 16, 2017.

  1. J_B

    J_B Mid-life Crisis

    Joined:
    May 26, 2010
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    619
    Location:
    Cottesloe - Western Australia
    Samtech
    I have a 2013 CRF250L donor bike and my cbr500r engine. I will start to strip the bike down next week. Would it be possible for you to advise the measurement of where you cut the engine cradle to provide the required clearance for the cylinder heads , this will save me having to lug the engine in and out of the frame.

    Kind regards

    Jon
  2. flipflopdog

    flipflopdog Youth & Talent, no match 4 Old Age & Treachary

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    Hi Jon, fresh from experience and not meaning to butt in here over Levi in any way I have just done this conversion and will simply say this : there is only ONE position that this engine will fit in and believe me its a tight fit but near on perfect. My only advise would be too measure your drive shaft centre from fixed points and try to replicate on the CB shaft. You can get the height bang on and almost laterally (horizontal) as well. Just go through the build threads from the others and get a general feel for the right position.
    I'm new in this small but select club of CRF500L owners but welcome aboard #6....!!!!
  3. flipflopdog

    flipflopdog Youth & Talent, no match 4 Old Age & Treachary

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    Purely for reference for other 500L builders here's my drawing for the exhaust collets, of course take your own measurements but these fit bang on and go with 35mm O/D pipe. IMG_7105.JPG
    larryboy likes this.
  4. Samtech79

    Samtech79 Two wheeled lunatic

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    Have a look at my build thread.
    The lower tubes are cut off right at the welds. The front tubes are lobbed off where they meet the center section. The center section is cut right under the stiffener and tilted forward about 5mm. The bottom of the center section is bobbed so get more clearance above the exhaust ports.
    I trimmed off all the mounts on the center section and relocated the in relation to where the center ended up slightly forward. I recommend you have the front fender mounted when you do this so mantain some clearance between it and the center section and to gusset the center section.
    flipflopdog likes this.
  5. J_B

    J_B Mid-life Crisis

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    Location:
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    Thanks for the advice .
    As my chippy says - measure twice , cut once
  6. totensiebush

    totensiebush re-tarded

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    flipflopdog, I think you mean 35mm ID pipe (as you show a 38mm hole)
  7. flipflopdog

    flipflopdog Youth & Talent, no match 4 Old Age & Treachary

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    No defo 35mm OD, these are the collets as we call them over here and need 3mm total clearance for them to slide over the pipe...
  8. flipflopdog

    flipflopdog Youth & Talent, no match 4 Old Age & Treachary

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    IMG_7152.JPG IMG_7151.JPG

    The 'Loom of Doom' saga has begun..!!!
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  9. Scutty

    Scutty Talent-limited bike builder and rider

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    Getting there mate! Nice progress.
  10. flipflopdog

    flipflopdog Youth & Talent, no match 4 Old Age & Treachary

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    Samtec, Micheal, Scutty and Sock.... What did you do with the PAIR valve, incorporate or dismiss..?? The CRF air box has two take-off points, the cam cover also has two spigots, I'm assuming you link both to both but which spigot has the reed valves behind it, i'm thinking the front one. Any input on this issue gents would be greatly appreciated. Also, I have mounted the bike lean angle sensor in a very natural spot on the front right section where the CRF had things located. I take it the CB engine requires this sensor or again can this be shorted out and done away with, who has kept this sensor in operation...???
  11. sock

    sock tube

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    I removed the wiring for the pair valve, welded the front valve cover nipple shut and left the reeds untouched, and plugged the small hose coming from the air box. The big one went to the relocated valve cover rear nipple. I have the angle sensor right where you have yours, I'd call it important and leave it in but I think it can just be removed no consequence.
    flipflopdog likes this.
  12. Scutty

    Scutty Talent-limited bike builder and rider

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    I dumped the reed valves and got a plate off eBay to cover it. The rear vent pipe is still connected to the airbox but I wish I had lowered it like you have to give a little more space for the tank.

    The PAIR valve can just be removed and junked (doesn't need a resistor or anything). I have the CB500 Lean angle sensor (which is different to the CRF one) mounted in the same spot as the CRF.
    flipflopdog likes this.
  13. flipflopdog

    flipflopdog Youth & Talent, no match 4 Old Age & Treachary

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    Nice one gents, gonna junk it then as per you two..... cheers.

    Sorry Scut, was that dumped as in removed totally or just blanked off with the plate.. or both..??
  14. Scutty

    Scutty Talent-limited bike builder and rider

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    Both
  15. J_B

    J_B Mid-life Crisis

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    619
    Location:
    Cottesloe - Western Australia
    upload_2017-8-11_17-28-6.png


    This is a pick from Flipflopdog build - note the removable top engine mount , this is different from the other builds , is it necessary to allow engine removal?
    Also I plan to have a low slung Rally style single muffler (CRF450 Rally style) and rear tanks , can I use the standard header pipes and just stat the new section at the end of the engine cradle?

    Thanks

    JB
  16. Scutty

    Scutty Talent-limited bike builder and rider

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    I am not sure why Flip has done that - my engine is very easy to remove once the cradle spars are unbolted. the engine just tilts forward and clears that mount. It takes about 30mins to get the engine out from the fully built bike.

    Regarding the exhaust, I started out trying to use the standard headers but the bends really aren't conducive with the frame shape. In the end I ditched them and got a complete custom header built (I am still not totally happy with that but it is way better than it was).
  17. J_B

    J_B Mid-life Crisis

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    Thanks scutty
    30min to get it out ,200hrs to get it in , I am starting to think I may have bitten of more than I can chew.
  18. Cruz

    Cruz Lost but laughing.

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    Have any of the builders/owners of these bikes had them engineer certified (mod plated over here) for registration purposes or do you not have to where you are living?
  19. Scutty

    Scutty Talent-limited bike builder and rider

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    My insurance company wanted an engineering report before they would insure it. It was relatively painless to get the report and no issues registering the engine change here in the U.K.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Cruz likes this.
  20. flipflopdog

    flipflopdog Youth & Talent, no match 4 Old Age & Treachary

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    Hello JB, keep going mate it is well worth the effort. I was like that at first and all builds get the better of you at some point during progress..!! RE; my removable engine mount, basically it was put in to ease engine removal and installation. Its a tight fit and anything to make your life a little easier is worth the effort in my eyes. I believe we have all gone about it slightly differently but ended up in roughly the same place. Just make sure you have that sprocket position bang on.