Wow that's awesome. We differed in that I mounted the centering bracket from underneath instead of on top like you did. I went that route due to reading the scant few shared installations I found prior to my install that ultimately failed. I wish I would have known that before I followed what others tried doing, but I guess the only people posting about it at that point were the one's complaining about how the bracket was no good for its centering purpose. The fact that I made my cut with out disassembling completely like you did (forging forward bull headed) kept me from seeing the bigger picture. But as they say, in for a penny in for a pound, I wasn't going to stop. Too bad this couldn't have been clearer in the included instructions, it would have made the extra modification I did unnecessary, but that's why we're here! Thanks for the insight JimInOz. Nothing for me to do at this point, I've made peace with it. I'll edit and put a link to your post in my earlier "workaround" so no one goes down the rabbit hole I jumped in.
Thanks heaps for the writeup and pics, Jim! Out of curiosity, is it completely necessary to trim the existing mount other than for cosmetic purposes? It looks like the added height of the centre bracket means the back of the instrument would clear the old mounting arm.
No probs mate. Here's a couple of tips for those who want to completely remove the bracket. The wiring looms are held onto the bracket on two tabs, one either side. You don't need to disconnect the electrical plugs, just push in the tab at the rear of the connector block and slide it down off the tab. The wire loop holding the two throttle cables is a closed loop and has to be cut so the cables and come out. The other cables can be jiggled/persuaded out of their loops and then the bracket can be removed.
I just checked as I've still got the bits. It would be a very (extremely) tight fit to get cables through and then you have to get the back cover on the speedo and access screws etc so I guess that's already been tried, thus the need to get out the hacksaw and files (or a Dremel as done by @Dave101).
Thanks again, guys. I intend to just centre the stock instrument, so zero destructions came with the bracket itself & Opmid’s own youTubes don’t seem to clearly show how to mount it.
Thanks G19Tony and pyoungbl, After looking at the stock shifter it's probably one of the cheapest and weakest parts on the bike. I'm gonna try a buddies spare KLR shifter and maybe pull the stock one and do a little cutting and welding. If the KLR shifter works I'll let folks know
One advantage to having a weak shifter lever is that it bends in a fall to absorb the force rather than transmitting it to the shifting shaft coming out of the transmission which is hardened steel and can snap off if it takes too hard of a shock. If you look, that splined shift shaft has a very long unsupported length coming out of the engine/transmission case, which will make the stress at the base multiplied versus a more normal shorter shaft, and thus, easier to snap off in a hit. Unless you are also planning on fitting one of the aftermarket shifting shaft support brackets, I would stick with the stock lever and simply bend it back into place after a fall, which I found from personal experience is quite easy to do, and protects the more expensive and harder to replace shifting shaft. As always, YMMV.
I had a gf break the shifting shaft off of a bike when she dropped it on the left side in a turn, it can and does happen. We swapped bikes because I was the more experienced rider and had to ride her bike home stuck in 3rd gear, slipping the hell out of the clutch to get it rolling any time we had to stop on the way back. And that was a rather mundane street bike with a short stubby shaft sticking out of the case. YMMV.
Another thing to consider is the "soft" shift lever helps limit the amount of force transmitted to the gearbox internals in a spill - shift forks, in particular, are rather delicate, and require splitting the cases to replace. I'd much rather bend a shift lever, instead! In the past, I've seen numerous dirt bikes that had a short, slightly loose length of cable (maybe 1/16" dia cable?) looped around a shift/brake lever end, with the other end looped around a forward frame tube, thus helping take some of the brunt of an impact during a fall (the cable's end loops being made with a Nicopress-type swaged fitting, and with just enough slack in the cable for required lever travel - and no more). May be an easy, cheap mod worth considering to make the stock lever(s) a bit more "crash proof"... Bob
150cc Honda CT150 Hunter Cub is on the way? - iMotorbike ... https://imotorbike.my › Home › featured 6 hours ago — The latest reports suggest the possibility of a bigger 150cc version of the existing Honda CT125 Hunter Cub. Here are the details! Honda ... People also search for
We will see, I’m sure there will be plenty of 125s used on the market in a year or so if this comes to fruition. If they increased the displacement and kept the weight similar I’m sure it would be a huge hit.
Honda does have a 250 and a 300 dual sport now. Not sure why they offer two models (4 if you count regular and rally), pretty similar, with only 50cc difference and not that different in price either?
agreed, I think a Ct 150 is about as likely as me becoming a preacher. But then again, I’ve been surprised before